• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

01 CCLB D/A K3500 DRW sitting in the yard...

What condition is the truck in interior why's?

Would it be something I would be interested in? Cindy doesn't like the NV4500 in the truck and she has ended up driving it quite often for some reason.

Not too bad actually, starting to get a little seat wear. tan cloth.

Do you think Cindy would mind a Dually?
 
Get the allison filters, Racor filters and a WIF wrench from Greg, the Lubrication Specialist. He has really good pricing.
 
Well, did a little washing, barely made a dent. I think to do it right I need to drop the fuel tank, and then put it on railroad ties.

Washed underneath enough to play with the shift cable, letting it dry before I mess with it.

On a positive note, got a little more sand and gravel in the driveway now.... geeze that thing is packed. :)

New problems:

1) they cut the chassis harness to wire up a flatbed.

2) I am staring at a 3/8 grade 5 bolt head where there was a bleeder screw. I am not going to touch that yet, pretty fresh Wix metal filter.

3) airbox is not fastened whatsoever. grab ahold and lift it right out. :) filter is dirtier than sin, I hope to heck it did not rupture. Needs changed badly.

4) pulleys are making noise, likely need changed.

5) front skidplate is broke, 1/4 of the right side is broke off. Fuel tank heat shield lost its clip at the frontmost location, and the front is bent out a little. RH inner fender has a crack.

6) fuel guage does not work, was not plugged in. Plug it in, still does not work. Unless it is that empty...but the ol back of the hand temp change test told me its about half.

7) antifreeze is not any color in particular. definitely mixed together. Will need to flush with water and change t-stats, as they are for sure stuck open, as it wont barely wiggle past 160 and the top hose is hot.

So, plenty of issues, but it still looks promising for the price. :)
 
Wix hasn't made metal filters for the duramax in about 5 years now. So unless he had a new one on the shelf, itis probably old. Also of note, the metal wix filters are only an 8 micron filter, and Bosch specs a 4 micron or better filter for the cp3 fuel system.
 
OK, how much fun is the block heater cord? Where do they put it on these? The end is cut off, and I see they route it with the battery cables.

Is there any aftermarket improved CV shafts and swaybar end links? both end links are shot, and one CV shaft is too. Yay, 4wd.... :)

Was there a guide on working over the rear brakes on this forum? parking brake does not work hardly, and I am seeing uneven pad wear, and when idling, the pedal slowly sinks to the floor when I step on it.


As far as making it look better,
Got the body cleaned and scrubbed, hit the inner crevices in the door with a toothbrush, so everything is back to a bright white. has a bunch of scratches in the clearcoat looking at it sideways, thought I had gotten some grit in the wash rag, but looking up high where I also scrubbed, and on the right side, hardly any scratches, so I think alot of it was allready there.

Got a good sized twine collection going, all removed from around the duals, axle, and front CV shafts. I took a pic of the pile... :)

Still need to vaccum it out, its actually not too messy though, seen much worse. :)
 
Somewhere in a thread is a discussion about the aftermarket stabilizer links I put on when I replaced oneof my CV shafts. CV was from RA.
Pretty sure there are a few discussions about brakes too
 
did you just end up going with the highest grade ones you could find on RA?

Are they changeable just by cocking the wheels?
 
I had the end links Mike mentioned on my 06, they were nice.

As for CV joints mine lasted to 300k fully cranked, just made sure to keep good boots on, they made alot of noise when I traded. I'd guess a set of raybestos or AC Delco cv's would be good for stock height.

I never had parking brake issues but I'd pull the brakes apart every 25k and grease the slide pins (they sell special grease at the parts store) and I'd replace the pins every 100k or so.

Raybestos pads and slotted raybestos rotors are are about as good as it gets. My pads made 250k and were maybe 25% uneven inner to outer, the rotors still looked ok.
 
Cold weather, sitting on blocks to raise front end for washing, and I got anti-freeze present at the left rear corner of the engine. Does the LB7 have a water cooled turbo like the LLY and up? I thought I read about the hoses going bad.

Lets hope its not head gaskets, luckily I dont think this truck has been overly stressed powertrain wise (just chassis wise. :) ) so I doubt there has been much pressure stress there.

How much fun is it to flush coolant on these? its running green now. IDK if I will go back to Dex or go Cat EC-1.
 
Yes, the turbo is liquid cooled. Coolant at the left rear could also be from the oil cooler as it is part of the oil filter adapter. There is also an o-ring on the tube that goes into the oil cooler from the water pump. Flushing the coolant is much like most any other engine. There are block drains on a duramax so you can get about 95% of thecoolant drained out of them.
 
Back
Top