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I built my 6.5 with Mahle Marine 18:1 pistons back in 2007 - block needed decked a bit a get flat/straight. If memory serves, comp ratio came out around 19:1. It did have some impact on starting below say 10 degrees F, but I compensated with longer glow time, faster starting rpm via...

Yep, that's been the practical solution for now - covering, restricting airflow. My oil cooler is mounted behind a perforated stock skid plate, and the fan is thermostat controlled. The oil cooler thermostat would also help oil come up to temp faster, but there's not a lot of space to plumb it...

A decade ago when I rebuilt my 6.5, I replaced the stock oil cooler with a larger 48 stacked plate (36 stock I believe) oil cooler. And I've got oil temp, oil pressure, and ECT gauges. Having both oil temp and pressure gauges really illustrates how much viscosity & oil pressure varies with oil...

A trailer ad came across my facebook feed showing a gooseneck, deckover, tilt-bed trailer. Hadn't seen that before. Probably expensive, but thought I'd share as it looks like it would allow easy loading of low slung equip like forklifts. Suppose the additional cost could be worth it for the...

Trailer started off like this. Salvage title that had been thru/somewhat in a fire. Was a late night Craigslist find cheap enough I could buy quality new components (wiring, lights, deck, wheels, tires, bearings, etc.), paint it, & have a basically new trailer for used price. And buying used...

They do. Just called a carhauler. Not quite as low as say a farm hay trailer lo-boy. But notably lower than deckover. The carhauler feels even more stable than a gooseneck deckover, although by nature, goosenecks with their long tongue length, are all pretty stable compared to bumper pull...

x2 on the PJ trailer brand being well built. No doubt you pay for it buying one new. Seems like they build a little more to a quality point - vs - price point as with many trailer mfrs. The torque tube is a good feature if trailer will ever be loaded unequally on the front corners. Is there...

Thanks. So sounds like 8 bolt, 16x10.00 rims from any of those should work best for 11.00 x 16 - guessing my 1086 probably has 6" rims with it's current 10.00x16 tires. I'm compiling a parts/upgrades shopping list before I hit the Ag salvage yard. Wonder what they'd charge for an air...

I found a pic of one I've been into that shows a bit of the bearing that supports the end of the pinion. Look to the right of ring gear & bit below center - can see the lower quarter of that bearing & rollers in end view.

Thanks Tanner. Very sharp MX! Think I'll scout the salvage yards for '88 series front rims. Hadn't noticed the 14L rims were 16.1 - not exactly 16's. Guessing going to 10 inch wide rims is a good idea to any ride benefit even if I just go from 10.00 to 11.00x16's. Do you have any brand...

I've had good luck with Timkens. If it needs ring & pinion, I went with AAM on TheFermanator's suggestion. They're the OEM gear & their grind seems to run quieter. Imagine that's to meet OEM expectations. Don't know if cheaper gears give up much durability, but some are definitely noisier...

x2 Gotta go into it far enough to diagnose which bearing(s) failed. Might well already have worn ring/pinion as deflection is certain to cause in time. Bearing rollers & bearing cage remains. Gotta be from either the pinion bearings or carrier bearings. I'd pull axles, then pinion & carrier...

Can't do that. The DT414 (think DT466) engine is the best thing about these tractors. Maintain the coolant and they're fuel efficient & on the opposite of end of the durability scale as compared to 6.5's.

Tanner, were the new front tires 11.00x16 or 14.00x16? I just picked up a fairly clean old IH 1086 that will mostly do CRP mowing & maybe ~50 acres tillage to establish some new CRP ground. When I replace the fronts tires, might go a bit bigger a little for flotation & also to improve the ride.

I also like the appearance of freshly blasted cast aluminum on engines - but over the years I've tired of building an engine & making it look sharp, then the Al oxidizes & also absorbs/stains from oil, etc. For cast aluminum where I'm not concerned about heat transfer properties, I powder coat...

A couple decades back we had a neighbor with an IH 1468 that had the original tractor (idle on 4 cylinder) version pump. They had the pump modified to always run on all 8 - believe by a pump shop in NE IA called Dubuque Injection Service that had some experience with that pump. Tractor didn't...

Is the fence on level ground? High tensile wire fencing works best on level ground. Can work in hills, but the more bends in the wire runs, the harder to keep tensioned & more pressure pulling up on low posts & pulling down on high posts. Very many animals? Reason I ask it that cattle...

Also worth noting that any post that winds up not plumb enough to suit, isn't a permanent thing. Can pull it & drive it in nearby, or if even spacing is critical, auger the hole out, & set/tamp it in. The two main reasons driven posts wind up not plumb are: not being careful enough when...

The big benefit of using a post driver is speed. Can build fence much faster if ground/conditions allow driving. Many years ago we put in a lot of fence with a Shaver post driver. Augering a hole, setting post, tamping done right - results in a solid post. In most soil conditions, driving...

Messages from a couple dealers summarized: Part out of production & not showing anywhere in the dealer network. If I can find a used disc/disc combination valve, I want to pull the spring that sets the knee point of proportioning to rear brakes, & compare it to some springs from the old/more...