If you can find one, get the 78-79 Dana 60. You can buy caliper brackets to retain your factory front brakes and have the hub machined to keep your ABS. You get to keep factory lug pattern as well.
I’ve been using synthetic oil since I started driving, started with Mobil1 and tried Amsoil then switched to Schaffer oil. I’ve never had an oil related engine failure and I keep stuff to 250-300k miles.
What benefit would this oil have over any other good synthetic oils?
I have a nice brand new pump to install in the near future with new injectors. I want to ditch the factory filter setup and go with a spin on and replace the lines while Im at it.
Is the FTB mod worth doing on the pump inlet? Anything else I should be doing while Im at it?
I would add something to the frame attachment to allow for flex. Like already said the fixed point at the frame limits the leafs from moving freely.
This is OffRoad Designs setup I have a picture of,
Just run a non synthetic oil and change it out at 500 miles then 1000 then do the regular oil changes. Swap to synthetic at 10k and you should be fine. The only thing to realy seat in the new motor is the rings. Drive it easy for 100-200 miles then load it up some to build cylinder pressure.
Hit the junk yard before you buy anything online. The 14bff is a very common axle to find in a bone yard for 100-150 complete. Pull the carrier and swap it out with yours if you find one with the same gears.
Since your at the start of this, check the wiring around the turbo vane sensor at the back of the motor, there is a TSB out that shows how the dog house insulation has rubbed through the wiring and caused over boost code.