New motor break in oil recommendations

[Joey D]

Just run a non synthetic oil and change it out at 500 miles then 1000 then do the regular oil changes. Swap to synthetic at 10k and you should be fine. The only thing to realy seat in the new motor is the rings. Drive it easy for 100-200 miles then load it up some to build cylinder pressure.

 

[WarWagon]

Havent heard any negetives on Mobil 1, I am liking Delo 400 15/w40 and have since changed to AMSOIL on my dmax and nothing else runs enough to get oil changed often. Tractor only gets changed once a yr and I am topping off with Delo, it has always used oil but Rotella caused it to more than double usage (over a gallon/ 8 hrs) back to gallon in ~20hrs with only 2 gallons of delo added.

Warwagon uses Delo and if it works for him... lol (set my standards by those who abuse their stuff as bad as or worse than me)

I run what is on sale. They all acted the same boiling off 1 quart every 500 miles in the 6.5.

I'll have to look up the recent change in Rotella. I ran it, conventional, in the 2008 Duramax for 115K miles with 10K miles change intervals and would ruin aftermarket oil cooler lines and still have the samples come back decent, but, oil was done at the 10K interval.

The engine that scuffed a piston had Rotella and Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer in it, however, the damage already had been done by the time the Lucas was put in.

The oil failures I experienced were due to high temps from a cooling system failure and DPF induced biodiesel contamination.

You need to load the rings during break in, just not continuously. So STOMP it but get off of it and let the oil do the work and hot spots to cool. Lack of hard throttle will cause the 2nd ring not to seat as I have seen in light use military 6.2's I get surplus.

A Duramax takes 10,000 miles to fully break in by MPG numbers unloaded. After that you can run synthetic. I like synthetic for the extra temperature room it has when things get extreme. However when you are changing the oil every week and have a bottom line to watch synthetic just costs more. This is why I ran conventional. Synthetic also like to make the 6.5 oil cooler lines leak - even newer ones.

 

[schiker]

clipped....

You need to load the rings during break in, just not continuously. So STOMP it but get off of it and let the oil do the work and hot spots to cool. Lack of hard throttle will cause the 2nd ring not to seat as I have seen in light use military 6.2's I get surplus.

I agree.

A owners manual I read once advised not to use cruise control for first 5000 miles. And iirc no extended idling. So if you think about it they don't want you to hold the same "load" for any sustained time. They want you to load and let off. A good mechanic cousin likes to crank up and rev and let off several times then cut it off let it cool completely cold and repeat. I watched him break in a $$$ 427 race engine once doing it. Its been a long time though.

Precision spindle bearings they do similar run up to temp then off till cold a few cycles.

 

[tanman_2006]

Warwagon, Thats fair enough. I just though i recalled you recommending Delo. I never got my samples back from the lab, idk what happened to them but i stopped getting them back ~4 months ago.

All I know is my dmax didnt like rotella DINO and since this board is based on experiences of its users I try to let people know I had this problem. Did alot of reading to find that article on Rotella changing (it was dated 2011 or 2012 iirc) and the computer i save it on crashed. My truck runs hot towing and I have no clue what oil temps I run but the oil press does drop in the 30's based on dash gauge after pulling heavy for over an hour in 100* heat. My 93 chews it up but I only used the truck to haul loads last summer and left it parked other wise so its not a fair example. My tractor always uses oil (8.3L cummins w/ 6,200 hrs) but it went WAY up after filling the crank case with rotella and started going down after some HD Lucas and delo added.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Ok, so back to the original question . . .

Chris, Why not coat the one remaining part (rings) and just skip the oil??? Just think of the overall cost savings :hihi:

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Ok, so back to the original question . . .

Chris, Why not coat the one remaining part (rings) and just skip the oil??? Just think of the overall cost savings :hihi:

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