Recent content by Grendahl

If you live where they use road salt in the winter, then rear drums are much more attractive. On the several trucks that I have owned I've only worn out one set of rear shoes, and never had to replace the rear drums. The front discs and pads need replacement about every other year due to...

I had the same issue in my 08 Colorado. If I shifted back and forth from 2-Hi to 4-Hi it would eventually engage. The issue turned out to be a bad contact in the transfer case actuator. Mine was fixed under warranty, so I didn't have to diagnose the issue myself. The dealership switched out...

I think both the SRW and DRW trucks have the same GCVWR, which is probably determined by the capability of the brakes. Since the SRW truck is a bit lighter than the DRW, the allowable trailer weight is heavier. That is my theory anyway.

I just updated from win98 to winXP about a year ago. Notice I use the term "update" rather than "upgrade" since I'm not convinced the newer versions are actually any better than what they replaced. I figure I'm good with winXP for about another decade. From what I've seen and read about...

My DiabloSport Predator shows an option in the menu to disable the EGR, but I don't know if it stops the EGR from opening, or it just stops the ECM from throwing an EGR error code.

If my memory serves, GT4 is the RPO code for 3.73 gears. GT5 is 4.10, and GU6 is 3.42.

Rear drum brakes also hold up much better if you live where the salt the roads in the winter. Disk brakes in general don't hold up well in road salt, but the rears especially take a beating.

Your pictures remind me of how much I hate snow. :sick: You must be up in the hills. There is no snow on the ground or in the air here in East Syracuse right now.

Depending on how knowledgeable and observant your inspection guy is, a truck with an engine older than the chassis would not pass emissions inspection either. Legally it is OK to put a newer engine in an older vehicle, but not OK to put an older engine in a newer vehicle for "on-road" use...

Shouldn't the fuel be going into the tow vehicle rather than the one on the trailer? :hihi:

I wonder if that braket is meant to bolt the unit to the edge of a workbench. Maybe it is not meant to be a freestanding unit.

Propane runs about $2.99 a gallon delivered in bulk here in central NY.

Putting a cap on the end of the shaft and adding the zerk fitting is good for stopping the clunk, but will be a very bad thing if you get in a front end collision. With the cavity below the splines packed full of grease the steering shaft will not be able to compress the way it is designed to...

On mine I just remove the pinch bolt on the ISS near the exhaust manifold, slide the shaft back and forth a few times, and reinstall the bolt. This just redistributes the grease on the splines. Seems to cure the clunk for six months or so on my truck, and it only takes about 10 minutes to do.

I've got a couple Digital 486 100MHz computers at work that we still use. I've snoozed on those long enough I could probably bump them up to 2GHz for a nickel.:hihi: Those machines are kickin' DOS ver. 5.0 for an OS as well.