Recent content by GregAbell

I'm over 240,000 miles now. It was at 239,499 a couple of months back when I rebuilt the front end - those damn torsion bars were rusted SOLID - I had to cut them off and get new ones. I picked the truck up with 172,000 on it, so i've put a few miles on it.

I pulled both sides already so I could press-in new bushings Well, the new Moog upper ball joints will not mount on the top side of the A-arm (I checked the AutoZone ones, and they would mount on the top). Supposedly the AutoZone ones match up to the Moog part number ones (but they appear to...

Anybody with a ’94 K2500 HD (8 lug hubs) care to take a look at your upper A-Arm for me? Is the upper ball joint mounted above or below the A-Arm? Also, is the brake hose clamp mounted towards the front of the truck or the rear? I could of sworn that mine was mounted below (before...

I was able to FINALLY get the passenger side key removed (hopefully the driver side won't take too much longer). I heated the key up real HOT, then beat on the end of the torsion bar through that round hole using a 1/2" socket extension bar and a 3 lbs sledge, then heated it up, beat on it...

I'm rebuilding the front end of my K2500HD. Everything is unbolted/removed, except the torsion bars are rusted SOLID to the lower A-Arm and also to the keys - I'd be happy to get either end apart. I've been beating on the A-Arms (forwards and back), along with liberal doses of Liquid Wrench...

It IS the recurculation motor - I had the same midget hiding under my dash, beating on a plastic pot with his wooden spoon in my truck. I didn't fix it (yet) - I just disconnected the wires for now (I'm not going to be using the MAX button on my AC for awhile anyway). Here's the link to when...

The problem with over-filling the oil, is the crank will hit the oil in the pan and "whip" it up (think about when you whip your eggs when you make an omlette). The foamed up oil will NOT flow correctly (if at all). Worst case? Damaged engine!

Any decent auto parts place that carries Lisle tools should be able to get you a set of those sockets. When I did an engine swap last year on my kid's car, I had to re-use the studs for the intake and exhaust. I *was* just going to double-nut them, but didn't want to risk damaging the threads...

Thanks Dave - that's what I was looking for ... now if I can just shove my big mits in there ...

I know that's what it does - where is this motor physically located on the HVAC ducting? The Service Manuals (Helm Inc) call it out and describe it's function, so I'm confidant this is what is now causing the noise, but for the "diagram" the manual just states "not shown"

The "MAX" button is for the recurculation valve motor. Where is this motor located? The service manual just says its on the HVAC ducting, but doesn't call it out in the diagram. The truck was sitting for a while (as I'm sure others have been with fuel prices), and now when you start the truck...

The Mity-Vac works okay (I used one for years), but you have to put grease on the bleeder threads, and even then you might be pulling air bubbles past the threads, making it hard to determine if you have all the air out of the system. It's much easier with the Motive power bleeder (...