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CV Axle Seperation

MrMarty51 said:
Has the engine mounts sagged ?
Click to expand...
They cant sag that much.
Man- there is just something funky with this truck.
I’m waiting for you to do a frame off refurbishing and get measurements of everything from n8in8or’s collection as comparison.
It just feels like a crossmember is bowed or something insane like that creating all this confusion you been fighting.
 
Sagging…My chest, yes. Mounts…doubtful.
My engine block is an N/A 6.2 599 block so the oil pan is a little different. I do remember that little tidbit but, I don’t know if the front differential designs changed much and this one came from a salvage yard given the OEM unit’s upper mount broke the first time and again with that salvaged unit a couple of years later.

This picture is of the OEM diff back in March 2014 (Post#52 when I didn’t know enough to realize I had a differential drop kit on the truck).
IMG_0009.jpeg
I’ve lost count but, I think my current unit is the third one I’ve swapped so there’s no telling if one of the cooling fins is different or the oil pan is the culprit. I could always get the space by just grinding down the cooling fin closest to the pan. Yeah, I know, don’t do it but, in my defense, why not? This thing is grinding me down and I was so close to the finish line

Like I said, I bought a replacement diff. two years ago when I was fighting things to pull the driver’s side Output Shaft to replace the leaking seal. Now that this one was close to going in, the passenger side seal is weeping.

I’ll probably just put the replacement differential in and stop the pain with this one. Of course, there’s also the ‘devil you know’ factor to consider. With the differential dropped, I could also address the weeping seal.
 
It is the oil pan that is causing the clearance issues. 6.5 vs 6.2 pan molding / modeling differences are the cause of the clearance.

Here's a 6.5 pan to which I've added the markings as follows:
The blue shows where my 6.2 pan differs as the 45 ish angle highlighted in yellow is not present on the 6.2.
Additionally, the orange area pounded / molded into the 6.5 pan isn't present on mine either.
The Red area is where my differential's offending cooling fine would line up.

1782175769944.jpeg

Here's a couple of shots of my 6.2 pan with the differential out of the way.
1782176987877.jpeg 1782176133554.jpeg

Side view of the 6.2 pan
1782176279463.jpeg
While there is a small notch formed to the left of the oil drain plug (which is further forward than what's molded into the 6.5 pan), that's not where the offending cooling fin almost comes in contact with it.

My granddaughters came over and we removed the front driveshaft and dropped the differential.
Once out, we separated the passenger side axle tube, removed the axle and leaking seal then put it back together again. I've not done this task before so it was an adventure for the all of us.
1782177099121.jpeg1782177132314.jpeg

It's all back together now and on the transmission jack. Tomorrow I'll grind off the cooling fin to gain the clearance and make offerings to the front differential spirits that I put that one washer back correctly....
 
Here's an odd question. and I know this probably isn't something you want to do, maybe it will help others , but on the 6.2 vs the 6.5... are the pans swappable. I know they are different, but are is the gasket fitment the same say for something like my 93 since I am working towards swapping out the old 6.5 for a decent 6.2.
 
The pan isn't smiling so much as leering. What we can't see is the 'bird' it's giving me out of frame.
dbrannon79 said:
Here's an odd question. and I know this probably isn't something you want to do, maybe it will help others , but on the 6.2 vs the 6.5... are the pans swappable. I know they are different, but are is the gasket fitment the same say for something like my 93 since I am working towards swapping out the old 6.5 for a decent 6.2.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately, in my case, the pans are not interchangeable because of differences in rear main seals. 6.5s are single piece whereas the 6.2's from 1982-1990 had a two piece rear main seal. 1991 and up have the single piece.

In 2010, Missy Good Wench started a thread on the differences https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/oil-pan-tech-for-6-2-6-5-engines.25515/
Or course, I found her thread this morning researching an answer to the question and she addressed these differences in pan shapes and reasonings and even peculiarities with HMMWVs and other applications.

FWIW, according to Google AI results, which are about as reliable anymore as Wikipedia, "The very first 1982 models even used a woven "rope" style seal, which was later updated to a two-piece neoprene style."

When rebuilding this engine, the SCAT crank which had to be turned down to accept the two piece seal (660 N/A block).
 
Paveltolz said:
It is the oil pan that is causing the clearance issues. 6.5 vs 6.2 pan molding / modeling differences are the cause of the clearance.

Here's a 6.5 pan to which I've added the markings as follows:
The blue shows where my 6.2 pan differs as the 45 ish angle highlighted in yellow is not present on the 6.2.
Additionally, the orange area pounded / molded into the 6.5 pan isn't present on mine either.
The Red area is where my differential's offending cooling fine would line up.

View attachment 99824

Here's a couple of shots of my 6.2 pan with the differential out of the way.
View attachment 99827 View attachment 99825

Side view of the 6.2 pan
View attachment 99826
While there is a small notch formed to the left of the oil drain plug (which is further forward than what's molded into the 6.5 pan), that's not where the offending cooling fin almost comes in contact with it.

My granddaughters came over and we removed the front driveshaft and dropped the differential.
Once out, we separated the passenger side axle tube, removed the axle and leaking seal then put it back together again. I've not done this task before so it was an adventure for the all of us.
View attachment 99828View attachment 99829

It's all back together now and on the transmission jack. Tomorrow I'll grind off the cooling fin to gain the clearance and make offerings to the front differential spirits that I put that one washer back correctly....
Click to expand...
Don’t grind your differential cooling fin. You’ve got to assume that is also structural. Better to install a 6.5 oil pan on it.

I’m thinking your 6.2 oil pan came off a 2wd truck.

P.S. wrote this before reading Brandon’s post on swapping in a 6.5 oil pan.
 
I would hate that you would need to manipulate your chrome pan, wonder if you acquired another 6.2 pan and modified it. not with a hammer but maybe cutting and welding in some mods. maybe even slicing off the bolt flange face and attaching it to a 6.5 pan. I know that can look like more work, but grinding off webbing from the diff like Big T says could be structural.
 
I appreciate the concern. However, I’m not removing the whole cooling fin.
I’ve done the consulting and I’m sure that removing approximately 1” by maybe a half inch half-moon’s worth of material isn’t going to alter anything structurally.
IMG_2837.jpeg
 
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Probably gonna be all picky and sand it with a flapper wheel- then go the extra step and use sand paper and hand sand it linear (in Line with the fin instead of against it) to keep micro cracks from forming too I suppose…😉
 
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