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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Update:

Theres still a damn squeak, this is driving me nuts, I dont understand. I did a test drive going up to 70MPH (u joints are firmly in) and whenever I slow down/am at a pace to where the wind isnt loud enough to drown any sound out. There it is, I still hear a dman squeak.

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3 new videos · Thursday, Jun 11 🎬

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Its driving me nuts, i even threw it on 4H and its still there.

Assuming its not a u joint (either front or rear) what's the next contender? What could possibly cause an inferno squeak such as this
 
I didn't really hear a squeak in your videos. Will just beat me to it... hubs or brakes. get you a set of jack stands and a floor jack. put the rear up in the air and put it in drive NOT in 4x4. and listen.

did you check the u-joint at the trans? since the one at the rear diff was fubar, how about the other one? or did you just replace both?

the squeak will not be in the diff at least for the parts that are lubed with the diff oil. only other place would be in the brakes/hubs.

for the rear.. drum brakes... brake dust is the #1 cause of squeaks along with out of round drums. this is something that is normal and shouldn't be anything to worry about unless you feel pulsation in the brake pedal along with the rig not stopping smoothly. if it stops smooth and there is no pulsations, and the shoes are not worn down thin. there isn't much you can do there, maybe wash out the brakes removing the dust.

the only other thing in the brakes that might make that noise would be the backing plate slightly touching the drum, there will be rub marks on the lip when you pull the drum that would be noticeable. you can also hear that if you lift the wheels off the ground and turn the tire by hand.

again the above mentioned will not be a show stopper need to fix asap thing. the things that will be a show stopper is u-joints or the diff running dry of lube.
 
U-Joint, as @Will L. said, look back at My posts.
Drip that drive shaft, check them U Joints and confirm that there is not a dry trunion.
Takes about a half an hour, one wrench and a smalish pry bar, or, large screw drive to dislodge the joints from the yokes, not more than ten skinned knuckles and a dozen words from the mechanical vocabulary list, only then can you be reassured that it is, or is not the you joints, and, it will beat down my curiosity too. 🤷😹😹😹😹
 
MrMarty51 said:
U-Joint, as @Will L. said, look back at My posts.
Drip that drive shaft, check them U Joints and confirm that there is not a dry trunion.
Takes about a half an hour, one wrench and a smalish pry bar, or, large screw drive to dislodge the joints from the yokes, not more than ten skinned knuckles and a dozen words from the mechanical vocabulary list, only then can you be reassured that it is, or is not the you joints, and, it will beat down my curiosity too. 🤷😹😹😹😹
Click to expand...
I checked the u joint on the transfer case side sir and it moved smoothly, the rear/diff side one was the one that from the get go i felt resistance in.

When i added the new u joint it did feel stiff though
 
when installing new u-joints if they feel stiff there is a trick to relieve the stress on them. you carefully whack the inside of the ear that holds the u-joint on the driveshaft to slightly spread them apart. one or two whacks usually will do the trick, just don't whack the joint it's self. there's lots of youtube videos showing this.
 
dbrannon79 said:
when installing new u-joints if they feel stiff there is a trick to relieve the stress on them. you carefully whack the inside of the ear that holds the u-joint on the driveshaft to slightly spread them apart. one or two whacks usually will do the trick, just don't whack the joint it's self. there's lots of youtube videos showing this.
Click to expand...
I did that the yoke trick sir, still was a bit tight, but i had no issues rolling without giving throttle when in D or N.
 
nycxjeremyy said:
I checked the u joint on the transfer case side sir and it moved smoothly, the rear/diff side one was the one that from the get go i felt resistance in.

When i added the new u joint it did feel stiff though
Click to expand...
Did You center the joint within the drive shaft end ?
The trunions have to be pounded outwards against the snap rings.
This is accomplished by rapping against the solid cast portions of the shaft, both directions, You will observe the outer style of snap ring keepers slightly bulge outwards.
Then the cross will rotate freely.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Did You center the joint within the drive shaft end ?
The trunions have to be pounded outwards against the snap rings.
This is accomplished by rapping against the solid cast portions of the shaft, both directions, You will observe the outer style of snap ring keepers slightly bulge outwards.
Then the cross will rotate freely.
Click to expand...
I dont believe I did so sir, I did tap the yoke/end of Driveshaft with a hammer but thats about it
 
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