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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

The design on the two chambers & air filter mount is creative and looks neat.
But I would clean it up & sell it. Punch a hole in the fender for a snorkle that hits a filter in an enclosed box on the fender well. Then to the turbo- then add an intercooler and from there to the intake manifold.

For the interior air filter box- talk to diesel hotrod shops and I’m sure they have frequent take outs from the new diesels which flow twice as much air as ours do. So you get better filtering and better flow, with replacement filters that will be in stock for years to come. Even without the intercooler at first that would be drawing in cooler air than sucking in hot air right now.

Oh yeah, and you could add a diy air shutoff valve for runaway protection.
 
looks good other than from what I can tell your cruising on a straight away and seeing you have to correct your steering frequently. are all the steering components good?

it's something sometimes we don't think about because it becomes second nature and we get used to the vehicle. I had gotten so used to how my 95 drives it became a normal for me on how it steers. that was until I acquired my 93, even though it still has most if it's factory steering and suspension components installed, my 95 has has everything replaced more than once. driving my 93 made me realize just how bad my 95 handles on the road. I haven't driven the 95 in several months, I could hop in it now and probably couldn't keep it straight on the road even if I tried LOL
 
Well sir, the drag link was replaced before my trip back home, shocks aswell.

nothing else was touched (OG gearbox) and the tie rods did look good back then

Any suggestions to tighten the steering though? Really do hate how i have a suggestion wheel, its so annoyingly noticeable.
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Engine off:
While checking every joint is tight, and the rag joint in the column is good- have someone slow turn STEERING WHEEL left/right just a little bit in the freeplay and COMPARE movements on the PITMAN arm.

If the wheel is moving, no loss in rag joint, and pitman doesn’t move- then it is your steering box. Good luck with that because EVERYONE complains about poor quality of new ones and complaining more about rebuilt ones.

I’ve tried rebuilding a couple and swore never again. It’s annoying and results a usually crappy no matter if you buy top quality parts and do the work on a surgery table with gowns and gloves- there is just something about them that sux.

My hummer one is leaking slowly and the seal is $10. But I won’t touch it because of the potential for bigger problems to start. I fear the day I decide to try it…
 
Check the pitman shaft seal. that looks to be right in that area. if you see everything oily, get you a can of brake cleaner spray and clean everything up and drive it. then look to see what is getting wet with the oil.
 
ATF is known to clean carbon, but use it wisely! I would not run it full strength in as engine oil and risk destroying the bearings. mixing about a quart in with the oil is fine.

remember he did this on a gasser not a diesel. for your diesel since it uses a mechanical DB2 it's fine to use in the fuel. for the newer electronic DS4 pumps that is a no no.

bottle feeding it through a drip line into the intake helps clean the combustion chambers, valves, pistons and rings. but don't add so much that it would hydrolock. water also will clear out the carbon too, but again use with caution and not stall the engine doing it.

I will let @Will give you the deep dive on it all.
 
dbrannon79 said:
ATF is known to clean carbon, but use it wisely! I would not run it full strength in as engine oil and risk destroying the bearings. mixing about a quart in with the oil is fine.

remember he did this on a gasser not a diesel. for your diesel since it uses a mechanical DB2 it's fine to use in the fuel. for the newer electronic DS4 pumps that is a no no.

bottle feeding it through a drip line into the intake helps clean the combustion chambers, valves, pistons and rings. but don't add so much that it would hydrolock. water also will clear out the carbon too, but again use with caution and not stall the engine doing it.

I will let @Will give you the deep dive on it all.
Click to expand...
I've genuinely thought about the "running ATF in engine oil for 15 minutes prior to an oil change" trick or LiquiMoly for my next oil change.

My friend with a 454BB did it himself, and he recommended it for my 6.2, stated how his father did it and it ran better than when he got the damn thing.
 
Just remember on a diesel you don't get very much carbon build up in the engine oil. we get soot build up. on a gasser it's the carbon.
 
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