Welcome.
There is no conversion kit.
In the stickies here is a mini book written by Bobbie Martin. But with a manual transmission, it gets way easier.
Correct you need the injector lines for the db2. The little rubber lined metal clamps that secure them are the same- if yours are worn now is the time for new.
When the ds4 is gone, there is absolutely nothing the obd2 connector does for it. So my stock 95 hummer (came with db2) doesn’t even have a check engine light. Just gauges for oil pressure, engine temp, alternator. So the simple fix on that check engine light is removing the bulb. And mine has the 4l80e, so I have a check transmission light.
Wanting to use your factory dash then all the engine sensors stay the same, but the smarter choice is to get quality gauges with their own sensors. The stock sensors suck and the dash gauges are horrible for accuracy.
Your speedometer I am guessing you already have sorted out. If not, and you are goito go back to 4wd- save all the long term headaches and replacement of chain and plastic guides inside the new process transfer case - serious upgrade to an Atlas. They can do the speedometer set up for you.
Go to the junkyard and get throttle pedal from a 1993 or older gmt400 truck, they have the db2. Or go aftermarket and get a full cable throttle for building hot rods. There is a ton to choose from. This is more expensive but might be the only option since the 93 is now a 30 year old truck, not normally in junkyards anymore.
New db2, make sure it has bracket for throttle pedal. I suggest getting the ford inlet “cup” piece. Because ford uses 3/8 fuel line and gm uses a 5/16. The fuel filter is fed with 3/8 and reduces to 5/16 coming out going to the ip. Enlarging to 3/8 on ds4 or db2 helps extend ip life as well as power without any loss of mpg. Even if you don’t want to replace the filter system with something better, or don’t want to modify the ffm right now, run the 3/8 from ip now while it is out, and use a 3/8 to 5/16 reducer barb at the filter housing. Leroy sells new already modified ffm if you don’t want to drill and tap it yourself. The ffm is easy to drill and tap.
If the pump seller doesn’t offer it with the ford end, you can buy it yourself and swap, or remove it, drill and tap yourself- but drilling and tapping the ip cone is a pain because the metal has been hardened some. It will take a couple of drill bits and taps.
If you want cruise control- this will be the biggest expense to the system, maybe the same as the db2 itself. The cruise for it is -I THINK - 88-93. But not sure how that interacts with you system- hopefully Bobbie covered that. Otherwise another aftermarket kit.