I know that there is back-and-forth about the #9 resistor. My vote is to remove it and make adjustments with the programming so that the system stays in balance. Put another way, if you want more power, have the computer do it in a harmonic manner. Related, don't drink the Kool-aid on marine injectors, stick with OE. I ran marines for a while and found that the only 'benefit' was that they belched an embarrassingly black cloud on start-up. Went back to OE and the system made less smoke, the throttle was more responsive, and there was no difference in observable power.
FWIW, might consider getting some form of software driven code reader and not one of the less expensive handhelds. Edge makes the Insight which is able to read codes, clear codes, display real-time data as the PCM sees it, and calibrate the speed display based on changes to tire size. Actually, the speedometer is known to have some inaccuracy to it and I found that after calibration the Edge tracked with GPS, so in time I completely ignored the dash and relied on the Edge for all performance information. I also used AutoEngenuity for more in-depth troubleshooting and found it useful to isolate an injector failure as it had the ability to turn off one injector at a time.
A good thing to know is that the dash gauge for coolant temperature is near worthless and feeds from a sending unit above the #1 cylinder. Better way to go for reading ECT is from the PCM which displays actual temperature and this sending unit is at the thermostat crossover pipe.
