Picked up a 95 6.5 that was supposed to have a shot flex plate. Found it was just the starter was the wrong starter so got that sorted. I have the starter solenoid going direct to a switch off the battery trying to start it but it will not start. Pmd seems to work as im getting diesel to filter fast, it cranks and smokes white but no start, could use a hand with figuring out this problem
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Help with a 95 6.5 no start
- Thread starter Aaron b
- Start date
JMJNet
Recruit
On the starter, make sure you install the stud on the back of the starter to a bracket and held by a nut.
The installation of that nuts is not very easy as you can imagine and a lot of people left it without the bracket or the nut or both causing big problems.
The PMD does not have anything to do with fuel flow from tank to fuel filter and Injection Pump (IP). It controls fuel into the Injector from IP. In other words, the fuel will still go to the IP even with bad PMD.
The Lift Pump (LP) pump the fuel from the tank to the fuel filter then IP.
On a 95, the Oil Pressure Sensor (OPS) controls the LP when engine is running, so when the OPS is bad, engine will not start even if the fuel goes all the way to fuel filter.
If the truck has not been started for a long time, it will require an extended cranking with pause to cool down the starter.
The installation of that nuts is not very easy as you can imagine and a lot of people left it without the bracket or the nut or both causing big problems.
The PMD does not have anything to do with fuel flow from tank to fuel filter and Injection Pump (IP). It controls fuel into the Injector from IP. In other words, the fuel will still go to the IP even with bad PMD.
The Lift Pump (LP) pump the fuel from the tank to the fuel filter then IP.
On a 95, the Oil Pressure Sensor (OPS) controls the LP when engine is running, so when the OPS is bad, engine will not start even if the fuel goes all the way to fuel filter.
If the truck has not been started for a long time, it will require an extended cranking with pause to cool down the starter.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
DO NOT ATTEMPT starting the engine again until the bracket is in place. It can break the block leaving you with a huge paper weight in the shape of an engine.
DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID!!!
It sounds to me like you have an issue with glowplug circuit. White smoke can be unburned fuel, coolant in the cylinders, small amount of oil in cylinders, etc. The way to know is smell the smoke, I expect by your description is- it will smell like diesel fuel.
This is common time of year people experience the issue. Use a volt meter and measure that you are getting 12volts to each of the 8 glowplugs when the “wait to start” light is on. It should be on constant for 5-8 seconds depending how cold it is where you are.
A bad starter could just have been really old starter or could be a clue it was getting over worked by hard starting.
You can remove and bench test the glowplugs. There are written ohms tests for checking glow plugs, but I have found plugs that pass the test, yet fail to work properly. Or, just buy a new set. Only get AC Delco 60G plugs. I suggest getting them from a local brick and mortar authorized seller because there is knock off ones out there. The extra $10 you spend is worth it imo. Remember to put a little antisieze on the threads of the new ones (or your working tested ones) going in. Test vs just replace is money vs time you choose to spend. A new to me truck- I would start out with new.
If you test for voltage and dont get any at some or all of the plugs- post that here and we can walk you through fixin it.
Btw welcome to the forum and Merry Christmas.
DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID!!!
It sounds to me like you have an issue with glowplug circuit. White smoke can be unburned fuel, coolant in the cylinders, small amount of oil in cylinders, etc. The way to know is smell the smoke, I expect by your description is- it will smell like diesel fuel.
This is common time of year people experience the issue. Use a volt meter and measure that you are getting 12volts to each of the 8 glowplugs when the “wait to start” light is on. It should be on constant for 5-8 seconds depending how cold it is where you are.
A bad starter could just have been really old starter or could be a clue it was getting over worked by hard starting.
You can remove and bench test the glowplugs. There are written ohms tests for checking glow plugs, but I have found plugs that pass the test, yet fail to work properly. Or, just buy a new set. Only get AC Delco 60G plugs. I suggest getting them from a local brick and mortar authorized seller because there is knock off ones out there. The extra $10 you spend is worth it imo. Remember to put a little antisieze on the threads of the new ones (or your working tested ones) going in. Test vs just replace is money vs time you choose to spend. A new to me truck- I would start out with new.
If you test for voltage and dont get any at some or all of the plugs- post that here and we can walk you through fixin it.
Btw welcome to the forum and Merry Christmas.
Gotcha, i will order a starter bracket asap, it does indeed smell like diesel. I will get to the parts store in the morning for new glow plugs. And such.
Also knew about the starter spray, watched alot of videos trying to figure out what was up, and saw alot of videos saying not to use ether.
snarl95
Well-Known Member
The PMD won't make noise. The click is the glow plug controller.
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
can you post a picture of what you are talking about on the drivers side frame rail. The lift pump is the only thing I can think of there.
The PMD is a black or grey box about 1” tall and about 3”x4”. Check and see If it’s still mounted to the drivers side of the IP. Most people mount it behind the front bumper with a extension harness and a heat sink.
The PMD is a black or grey box about 1” tall and about 3”x4”. Check and see If it’s still mounted to the drivers side of the IP. Most people mount it behind the front bumper with a extension harness and a heat sink.
snarl95
Well-Known Member
Drivers side frame rail will be the lift pump.
Does the motor turn over when you try to start it?
Yeah im gunna guess its the lift pump, turning the key makes it click
I dont know man, im a cummins guy and prefer working with early first gen 2 wire start ups
Yes the motor turns over, but not as fast as i would like
I had a helper turn the key forward and the clicking was coming from what i find is the lift pump on drivers side frame rail
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
This truck is a OBD1 Truck with a DS4 electronic IP unless it was converted by previous owner to DB2. 93 was the last year for DB2 mechanical IP in trucks.
Word... Bro you ain't going to be able to get rid of this fast enough. Or say "screw it" and drop a Cummins in it. Glaringly these engines don't have the HP to back the torque up at low RPM. Forget about lugging it as it truly is a high speed diesel except the damn small turbo chokes the hell out of it above 2200 RPM. Just saying before we get to reliability or durability... Ah-HAHAHAH! NOT!
What is your cranking RPM? You need two good batteries, good cables, and a good starter. Cranking speed is minimum 100 RPM cold and 180 RPM hot.
Hard hot start causes
So after about an hour of going through the FSM I finally found it Maybe a mod can rotate this picture, I can't figure out how to.
www.thetruckstop.us
JMJNet
Recruit
DON'T EVEN TRY TO START WITHOUT THE STARTER BRACKET.
Roger that, got one coming asap through the mail. Just swapping glow plugs and cleaning injectors to get her ready for the big start