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Fuel Leak

When it rains it pours!!! When I was installing the last injector line to the pump # 8 I think, (it's the one on the passenger side closes to the firewall) I cross threaded it and it cracked. When I put it on it turned 3 times by hand then tightened up so I used the wrench to tighten it. It stripped the nozzle on the IP and cracked the nut on the line. I ordered a set of them a couple of months ago when the # 8 line on the sierra was leaking. Now I don't have a #8 line and need to order one of those again. What luck.
 
I got the new fuel line in and all but 3 of the plug/connectors. 2 of them go to the upper intake so I'm not worried about them, it is the other one that I can't find the mate for. Anyone know where the other end is in the engine compartment so I can look there (see video)? Also I just realized I didn't install the IP with the triangle gasket. Is it required? If so, more work for me.

 
I found it. It was on the pig tail wiring coming from the center of the IP. All Connected but the upper intake connectors.
I unscrewed the front driver side injector line and turned over till I noticed fuel dripping and then tightend. It turns over but won't start. I am going to charge batteries and try it with full batteries and see if that helps. They are both down to about 50%.
 
Pull out all the glow plugs on the drivers side and the easiest two on the passenger side. Turn it over until you see fuel mist blowing out. That’s what I’ve done when I put engine back in and both times I’ve had to pull the lines from the ip off. You can see the mist blowing over the fenders while sitting in the seat turning the key.
 
Thanks guys! I am going to try again today and see if it starts. The Lady at the shop said they guy to returned it said it was defective but she said he has always returned good stuff that has always tested good and worked in other vehicles. Maybe this one is actually bad. I'll see after some more cranking.
 
With batteries fully charge it still will not start. I am getting fuel to all the injectors on the driver side so I know it is pumping fuel. My thought is that one of the electrical components/connectors is bad. I have double and triple checked them. I know that it will start/run without the optical connector connected. So since my old pump was fine except for the leak I am thinking taking the parts that have plugs off the old pump and put them on the new pump one at a time till I find the part that isn't working. Am I correct in my thinking?
 
jrsavoie said:
Did you check for power to and from the PMD?
Click to expand...
I tried starting it with my PMD mounted inside the bumper and disconnected the pmd cable and hooked a new PMD I have right into the pigtail taking the cable out of the equation. What should be the power output from the pigtail and how would you read it with a meter since there are 5 or 6 pins in there?
 
Rodd said:
I tried starting it with my PMD mounted inside the bumper and disconnected the pmd cable and hooked a new PMD I have right into the pigtail taking the cable out of the equation. What should be the power output from the pigtail and how would you read it with a meter since there are 5 or 6 pins in there?
Click to expand...

Rodd - look under the cal resistors 500 PDF as it has extensive voltage tests and troubleshooting of the DS4. Not just resistors.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...-5-db2-5-7l-info-online-from-stanadyne.26581/
 
Rodd said:
With batteries fully charge it still will not start. I am getting fuel to all the injectors on the driver side so I know it is pumping fuel. My thought is that one of the electrical components/connectors is bad. I have double and triple checked them. I know that it will start/run without the optical connector connected. So since my old pump was fine except for the leak I am thinking taking the parts that have plugs off the old pump and put them on the new pump one at a time till I find the part that isn't working. Am I correct in my thinking?
Click to expand...

I suggest not. You got fuel, but, it's not lighting. Sounds like a DB2 with a worn out head and rotor and DS4's have a head and rotor. Just not getting enough PSI due to internal leaks to light off. Glow plugs being hot may help and as it's cold the cold water trick isn't going to help. I say you confirmed defective.

Before you pull it out give it a 1/4" advance and see if it does anything. Even with the driver's side GP's out the passenger side should hit. See my project truck thread for what glow plugs out mist looks like.

 
WarWagon said:
I suggest not. You got fuel, but, it's not lighting. Sounds like a DB2 with a worn out head and rotor and DS4's have a head and rotor. Just not getting enough PSI due to internal leaks to light off. Glow plugs being hot may help and as it's cold the cold water trick isn't going to help. I say you confirmed defective.

Before you pull it out give it a 1/4" advance and see if it does anything. Even with the driver's side GP's out the passenger side should hit. See my project truck thread for what glow plugs out mist looks like.

Click to expand...
Which way is advance, toward passenger or driver side?
 
Rodd said:
Thanks for the link. One question. When using the volt meter do I do it with the key on or do I need someone to crank it?
Click to expand...
If testing resistance and meter is on the ohms scale, key off. When checking voltages. key on.
Keep in mind when the key is on, not all wires will have voltage.
 
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