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Bye-bye Gov-Lock, Hello Tru Trac, plus gear swap and brakes

Well shoot. It looks like I'm on the hunt for brake pads again. I just glanced at the packaging of the Power Stop brake pads I bought and it says "Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Formula" on the package. It says they are metallic on Rock Auto. I'll do some more looking, but it looks like I'll probably be going with the Thermo Quiets since they're tested War Wagon tough.
 
n8in8or said:
I don’t see any brackets, so it looks like I’ll have to remove the brackets from my rubber hoses and crimp them onto these.View attachment 52513
Click to expand...
Yep > I called them twice today,

First guy told me they came with brackets. 2nd guy told me they came with brackets. I told the 2nd guy I wanted to see a picture of the brackets and after about 15 minutes he said they do not come with brackets.

I am looking for a couple of scrap lines to have the brackets ready before I tear things apart. Going to make a junk yard trip tomorrow.

Do the rubber brake hoses have any steel in them?

I plan on just removing the blot and cutting the lines on each side of the bolts. I have one set of cutters that would work good, but they are not steel friendly
 
jrsavoie said:
Yep > I called them twice today,

First guy told me they came with brackets. 2nd guy told me they came with brackets. I told the 2nd guy I wanted to see a picture of the brackets and after about 15 minutes he said they do not come with brackets.

I am looking for a couple of scrap lines to have the brackets ready before I tear things apart. Going to make a junk yard trip tomorrow.

Do the rubber brake hoses have any steel in them?

I plan on just removing the blot and cutting the lines on each side of the bolts. I have one set of cutters that would work good, but they are not steel friendly
Click to expand...
If they do have any steel, it’s really thin gauge. You can cut brake hoses easily with side cutters. I’m not sure you’ll be able to do too much prep with the hoses off the truck - you’ll need to make sure the brackets are in the right location and orientation and that would be hard to do without the hoses on the truck or laying the braided hose right next to some standard rubber hoses. Are you going to be installing the hoses soon?
 
n8in8or said:
If they do have any steel, it’s really thin gauge. You can cut brake hoses easily with side cutters. I’m not sure you’ll be able to do too much prep with the hoses off the truck - you’ll need to make sure the brackets are in the right location and orientation and that would be hard to do without the hoses on the truck or laying the braided hose right next to some standard rubber hoses. Are you going to be installing the hoses soon?
Click to expand...
Tomorrow. Wanted to do it today, But I needed the brackets and did not want to destroy waht I have in case there was an issue.

The hard part with these brackets is the weight of the steel that wraps around the line. It's very hard to roll back and reclamp around the line.

I'm thinking of just cutting them length ways so they just trap the braided stainless lines instead of being attached like they are OEM style

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9E4B0/?tag=jhdiesel-20
 
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jrsavoie said:
Tomorrow. Wanted to do it today, But I needed the brackets and did not want to destroy waht I have in case there was an issue.

The hard part with these brackets is the weight of the steel that wraps around the line. It's very hard to roll back and reclamp around the line.

I'm thinking of just cutting them length ways so they just trap the braided stainless lines instead of being attached like they are OEM style

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9E4B0/?tag=jhdiesel-20
Click to expand...
I doubt they’re that bad to pry open. Maybe start them open with a chisel or big screwdriver and then use channel locks to finish opening them up. I’m guessing once you have the brackets from the junkyard you’ll be able to figure it out.
 
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Tru trac is the Torsen style differential right? They are super interesting. My hummer has a pair. The are active all the time without locking suddenly like a clutch. And you can full lock with brake pressure when you want.
 
n8in8or said:
Well shoot. It looks like I'm on the hunt for brake pads again. I just glanced at the packaging of the Power Stop brake pads I bought and it says "Carbon-Fiber Ceramic Formula" on the package. It says they are metallic on Rock Auto. I'll do some more looking, but it looks like I'll probably be going with the Thermo Quiets since they're tested War Wagon tough.
Click to expand...
And if WW had them on a wehicle, You know that they were fully tested to the max. LOL
 
Sand said:
Tru trac is the Torsen style differential right? They are super interesting. My hummer has a pair. The are active all the time without locking suddenly like a clutch. And you can full lock with brake pressure when you want.
Click to expand...
Yep, that’s the one. Good to know they can stand up to the abuse of a Hummer.
 
Well... the ones we have is heled out a lot by the geared hub with roughly 2:1 reductions feeding those 37” tires.

There are cv axles aka halfshafts from the diff to the geared hubs at all 4 corners. And nearly 100% of owners have snapped at least one of those suckers offroading learning to never hit the brakes hard during a free Wheel scenario. Then some guys (not me) will put in chromalloy race, ball, and cage in all locations. Then they break geared hubs or destroy the spur gears or ring & pinion in the torsen.
At some point they we t away from torsen in civilian hummers and use e-lockers. A mistake imo. The only good version of that is a full aftermarket 9” ford adapted in there. The ring and pinion assemby of the diff we run is basically as strong as a dana 44.

Ironic to most modified hummer owners.. if I ever went powerhouse with my hummer I would do ford 9” but still use a torsen in it. Of corse the quick change would give option to another set being mini spool posi sitting around for race day...

Which brings the question, how come more modified gmt400 rigs never get the greatest thing ford ever brought to market- that magic 9”?
 
Will L. said:
. . . how come more modified gmt400 rigs never get the greatest thing ford ever brought to market- that magic 9”?
Click to expand...

Interesting question . . .

The experience I have with Ford's LS is far from positive and am planning to replace it with an Eaton unit which will actually work the way it is supposed to . . .

So, question back at-cha, which Ford parts do the job correctly?
 
As a whole, not saying one particular year, and of course a few exceptions are out there...

The 9” is imo the best rear end ever made.
The starter using a remote located solenoid on v8 from the 50s or 60s foreward is great.
Ford trucks have the best a/c systems (wish I could adapt one to my hummer)

And I have been a Chevy guy since Jr. Highschool. But give the devil his due...so finally:

They sure are fun to get unstuck when they can’t make it offroad, and they tow well. Haha
 
The OE front disc brake hose clip is pretty stout. They are wide and not easily crimped. I buggered mine up. If I would have been a little more patient or had a few to play with I might have been able to do better. Maybe take a side grider and trim them down some to make it easier to bend and crimp or something.

I ended up buying some cushioned hose "clips" to hold them in place.
View attachment 52528 clip.JPG
 
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schiker said:
The OE front disc brake hose clip is pretty stout. They are wide and not easily crimped. I buggered mine up. If I would have been a little more patient or had a few to play with I might have been able to do better. Maybe take a side grider and trim them down some to make it easier to bend and crimp or something.

I ended up buying some cushioned hose "clips" to hold them in place.
View attachment 52528 View attachment 52529
Click to expand...
Good to know, thanks. I’ll be prepared to do some messing around when the time comes.
 
On the front brake clip I worried about it not be exactly like OE but seems to be fine. I have no wear on the line that I can see or feel.

The OE clip lays in a little trough the whole width of the knuckle ( sorta along the blue line). I worried about the backside of line rubbing underneath on the knuckles top edge under the point in red but the hose doesn't move on the back side - the Caliper and hose connection stays in same position relative to the knuckle. 99.9% of the movement is on the front side when you steer. Might be a little movement as caliper floats while breaking but its negligible. The upgraded line doesn't swell during braking so less movement than OE. The line would probably be ok without clip but it is a good idea to try and protect any possible chafing being a brake line.

If you wanted you could hone that edge a little just to be extra prudent if your casting has any sharpness.

Let us know if you see something on your install you think might be an issue.careful clip.jpg
 
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