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How is the ride in a straight axle suburban? I know in pickups it make a big difference, just wonder how it is with the difference in weight.
 
Well, the older Burb is a wash lots of bondo covered sheet metal and chassis is rusted almost completely through and covered in some type of undercoating trying to hide the damage....Oh well an SAS on this Burb will become reality soon.....
 
How is the ride in a straight axle suburban? I know in pickups it make a big difference, just wonder how it is with the difference in weight.
I've rode in a locals lifted Burb that was converted to SAS rode OK but way too high for me. If I do one it will be at minimum lift to make it work and be what I call a cushy ride not stiff or harsh.
 
Well, the older Burb is a wash lots of bondo covered sheet metal and chassis is rusted almost completely through and covered in some type of undercoating trying to hide the damage....Oh well an SAS on this Burb will become reality soon.....
You've done so much to make your burb the way YOU want it, that I'd have been very surprised if you found another one that would make you happy as a substitute - straight axle or not.

I've rode in a locals lifted Burb that was converted to SAS rode OK but way too high for me. If I do one it will be at minimum lift to make it work and be what I call a cushy ride not stiff or harsh.
I wonder what the minimum lift is that you would have to do in order to fit a straight axle under the front? My F350 with Dana 60 is a LOT taller than my Tahoe and the front springs are flat (no arch).
 
You've done so much to make your burb the way YOU want it, that I'd have been very surprised if you found another one that would make you happy as a substitute - straight axle or not.


I wonder what the minimum lift is that you would have to do in order to fit a straight axle under the front? My F350 with Dana 60 is a LOT taller than my Tahoe and the front springs are flat (no arch).
I have seen 3" using FORD high pinion differential but suspect off road articulation will suffer somewhat.

The IFS in mine is already taller than most 8.6k rated Burbs....
 
Latest "KEEP IT SIMPLE" is a transmission shift cable bracket made from the factory 4L80e bracket to us the GM shifter cable with the Dodge 47RH transmission. Mounts just below the starter hump on the bell housing and will not rotate.
The cable is routed into engine bay then looped facing to the rear when attached to this bracket it pulls the 47RH linkage forward "on the CHEVY/GM it pulls backwards." Once installed the cable can be adjusted for travel.
 

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With the cummins I believe they say about 5-6" lift is minumum if you want any suspension travel. The lowest kit I've seen is 3.5", but they say it won't clear a cummins swap. And you couldn't get me to do a leaf spring swap. If I do one, it will be with an 05+ radius arm coil spring super duty axles. I would also consider a DODGE 4 link, but the CAD is a weak point, as well as there hub bearings(same size as ours), and the tiny ball joints they used.
 
The hub bearing issue can be fixed with an aftermarket free-spin locking hub conversion that replaces the crap unit hub bearings with good old-fashioned repackable Timken bearings spaced out wider to carry the load better. There's a couple of manufacturers who make the conversion kits, just look in the ads in the back of DieselPower.
 
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