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6.2 rebuild

Db pumps are still being built for military rigs.

You want the hardened/ coated parts inside for ulsd fuel.

Picking how much power you want and what$ is the 2 main factors.
 
Still putting this thing together. I noticed that some of the rocker arms are badly worn where they contact the valve stem. I have a set of 6.5 rockers sitting around.... does anyone know if these would fit and function the same as the 6.2?
 
1994ch said:
Still putting this thing together. I noticed that some of the rocker arms are badly worn where they contact the valve stem. I have a set of 6.5 rockers sitting around.... does anyone know if these would fit and function the same as the 6.2?
Click to expand...

Yes, same design and doesn't care 6.2 or punched out 6.2 aka 6.5. Only 1982 was an exception, but, looks clear as day different.
 
Question on the wiring of the gauges in a 96 chevy (the one I am swapping this 6.2 into.) Do the gauges get the signal straight from the sensor? Or does the signal go through the computer first? I am trying to figure out if I need to keep the computer in order to make the dash work. If need be I can possibly swap out computers and wiring harnesses from my 6.5 parts truck but if I can do away with the computer that would be nice... I will be using a trans controller so I am not too concerned about that (maybe I need to be) I have a big learning curve to figure out how to make this swap work (to learn how all this stuff works was one of the biggest reasons to do the swap) so any pointers to where I can learn about how to make the gauges work, tranns work, and cruise control work, would be greatly appreciated. I have and am reading Bobbie Martin's guide to DB2 conversions which is helping some areas.
 
Imo, ditch all the factory gauges. Ya know the only dial that is ever accurate in these trucks is the ones with a clock, and it's only right twice a day.

Put in some nice auto meter or vdo. Then everything will be accurate and no nonsense grounds or pc board issues. Get the oil pressure to the front and the ect to the rear passanger where they belong.
Only electric anything you need is the aftermarket trans controller.
 
Still plugging away at this project. Looking for a good set of injectors now........ What is the word on the AC DELCO 2171404 injectors that rockauto carries? The listing says that was OEM. I usually hear Bosch is the way to go but then I also seem to hear that some of the newer Bosch are also no good? Is this correct?
 
Bosch India isn't as good a Germany, but, it's better than the "Sell out" AC Delco that likely made in Communist China now. Country of origin is more important than anything else. You should check with Leroydiesel as he sells injectors.
 
20170522_193225.jpg 20170522_195557.jpg Got the engine mounted in the tahoe. Waiting on a none rainy day to get the tranny in place. Have an IP getting rebuilt, so things are coming together. I would like to pull as many wires as I can that will no longer be used without messing up the ABS or AC...etc... where is a good source for wiring diagrams? I have the haynes and chilton manuals but those diagrams are a little to basic and leave a lot out. Also I still have a good bit to learn on how to make the tach and speedometer work. From talking to the guy at US Shift the Quick 4 transmission controller can send a speed signal to the computer which will in turn drive the gauge...but I am not sure if I need to use the computer out of the donor diesel truck (4l80e transmission) or if the tahoe's gas computer which used to talk to the 4l60e trans will work.
 
Possibly a little late, but . . .

IIRC for the dash cluster: the tach gets its signal from the alternator, the speedo gets signal from a port on the VSSB, and the ECT gets signal from a sending unit above the #1 cylinder in the head.

The PCM gets speed from a separate port on the VSSB and ECT from a sending unit on the thermostat crossover. Not sure how the PCM gets RPM signal, but do know that it does.

Do not know about how the dash cluster gets voltage or oil pressure signals, but from what I had seen of wiring diagrams, do not recall outputs for signals from the PCM back to the dash cluster.

Aside, now is a good time to install a third ECT sending unit (and at least a set of wires for future attachment to a second gauge) in the head above #8. Reasoning is that trying this later is a pain due to clearance and the benefits are that you have a backup sensor when one of the other two fail. It is not a big deal if the sending unit above #1 fails as that only goes to the dash gauge. If the ECT sending unit in the thermostat crossover fails, it will mess with fuel injection timing and the transmission's shifting.


If you can find the budget for an external gauge cluster, consider connecting it to the OBD-II port. As an example, I rarely look at the dash anymore and just read from the Edge as it gives me correct speed and ECT where the dash does not. Add in auxiliary sending units for fuel and boost pressure, and the Edge can turn into a rather complete view of the motor all in one compact space.
 
That is one route that I am contemplating.......... just making my own instrument cluster. The hard part about that is making it look sharp... The hard part about keeping the original cluster is sorting out all the wiring.
 
1994ch said:
That is one route that I am contemplating.......... just making my own instrument cluster.
Click to expand...

With an Edge, you do not need to sort out how to wire-up a new instrument cluster as it get inputs from the PCM and any auxiliary sending units that you install (like boost and pyro).

Or look into a tablet and some other software that reads from the PCM.
 
JayTheCPA said:
With an Edge, you do not need to sort out how to wire-up a new instrument cluster as it get inputs from the PCM
Click to expand...

There are still wires to sort out because I am replacing a 5.7 gas engine with a 6.2 diesel so the sensors used will be different. (at least for the RPM) Coolant temp, and oil pressure might be similar enough......then there will be many sensors/wires that I no longer need, and I would like to cut out as many of those wires as possible. Just a little hesitant to start hacking wires without a firm knowledge of what I am hacking.
 
Finally got a good IP...but no bracket. was wondering if anyone had a good picture of the bracket that the throttle cable uses and also how the TPS mounts up... since I am piecing this thing together and have not been able to find a parts truck to use I don't think it will be too hard to fab one up if I had a couple good pictures to go by.
 
Thanks for the link! I looked at those and searched around little as well.... so where does the TPS mount? In my ignorance I thought it mounted to the cable bracket.... but I never saw it in any of the photos I looked at.
 
TPS mounts to the passenger side of the DB2 pump. Set it at 0.5v idle with the cold start off. 0.5v is about the minimum before a code so snap the throttle close and then force it backwards to be sure that is the lowest voltage. It has 5v, ground and sense that is 0.5v to 4.X v. There may have been a vacuum switch mounted there.
 
Thanks for the info!

Had a frustrating day today...... bolted the harmonic balancer on in it hit the waterpump housing (without my noticing) broke the bond between the rubber and the outer ring on the balancer. Got to looking at the water pump and noticed that the 6.5 style pumps have a little hump cut out so it will clear the balancer. But I am confused because the balancer I took off this engine is the same size as the one I tried to install..........the water pump was for a 1982 6.5 Gates P/N 44099. Don't know what to say other than now I have to order another $100+ balancer, and take a grinder to the water pump.
 
The old style water pump also has a different bolt spacing for the clutch...........so I guess I will be pulling the front cover, replacing the water pump with the newer style (using the front cover off my parts truck). So if you know of anyone that needs the old style 6.2 water pump......

To clarify what I learned (just in case someone else tries to mix match an engine)
The older 6.2's that had the v-belts have a different bolt pattern where the water pump bolts to the front cover and the spacing for the fan clutch / drive pulley is also different.
So if you want to update to a serpentine belt system, you will need the newer style front cover, and the newer style water pump.

I still have no idea why the HB would not clear this particular water pump.............

I'll try to take some pictures to illustrate when I take it apart again.
 
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