Centermount turbo setup on a k3500

[3500_6.5]

Why not put 90° els (soldered copper/brass fittings?) on the heater nipples at the fire wall and route the heater hoses along the firewall over to the fender, then around the airbox between the battery and over to the normal connection points on the engine? It would open up that area tremendously and you could possibly run a 4" down even.

With the body lift I could already fit a 4" downpipe. I didn't think about rerouting the heater hoses though for easier and better exhaust routing. That just might be something I may do. I'll know more once I get the passenger side piping ran and start figuring out for sure where the flange can/will go to mount the turbo.


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[n8in8or]

Here's what I got done tonight though.

I did a few of the angled all thread pieces. Will is a genius. It is so simple and easy but something I would have never thought of. It seems, as of right now, that this will be the route I'll be going to mount the intakes.

I also added an elbow to the driver side header bc there wasn't enough room to put the flange on and then add the bend. It put the exhaust too far back and would hit the firewall. So I tacked the elbow into the header and then put the flange on the backside of the head. I ran the 45* angle and a small straight piece to get the piping up to the engine valley. I tacked it all together with the stick welder. I have a new welder that should be here Monday, so I'll wait to do all of the final welding until then.

These were the two option I was thinking for the turbo. The transverse one will most likely be what I will be going with after going out and looking at the truck. This is a 18cm non gated hx35 that I will use to mock up everything. It will sit a little higher and I will add mounting backets to support the turbo, but for visuals, I just set it on the intake to get an idea of where things will need to be. Critiques are more than welcome!

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Are you going to be running a wastegated turbine? If so I think that will need to factor into your placement equation as well so there is clearance for that and it doesn't impede any routing. I always pictured transverse when I thought about doing a center mount but left the idea open to what actually fit once I started laying it out.

 

[3500_6.5]

Hummers suffer more heat related issues than pickups because of the angled cooling stack. IMO it is added to by the up pipes and turbo holding more heat near the rear cylinder/head. Do everything you can to insulate the up pipes and blanket the turbo.

Also 3500_6.5 and Leroy: is there any reason the turbo could not drain into a valve cover?

I will be insulating all of the piping and using a turbo blanket. Going to try to keep all the heat I can in the exhaust.

Like Leroy said, we talked about that as an option. He had mentioned using the stock location to me but I was concerned about having enough slope all the way back to the original location for it to drain properly. But after seeing where mine will mount and getting a good look at everything, I think the stock location is a very viable option. In terms of saving time and ease of install, I think it will be the best bet. I already have Leroy's drain kit for the stock turbo location so all I will have to do is get a longer hose and it will be done. Should save some time and money on fab work and it is easily duplicated.


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[EWC]

Ever thought about using oval pipe ?

 

[Husker6.5]

What about using either the Duramax VGT with a mechanical/vacuum vane actuator (since it is already set up as a center mount turbo), or a 5.9 Cummins VGT mounted so the compressor outlet is mounted facing forward like it is in its normal side-mount configuration, again with a mechanical/ vacuum vane actuator?

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

The VGT's are even bigger, and not as much clockable as these others are, and not to mention they are heavy, my he351ve weights 45lbs...

Much better controls than manual or vac for them are now made also.. i think the vgt will be the up & coming turbo for those that are willing to spend the money for the needed fab work & controls needed, a + is they are water cooled also...

 

[n8in8or]

The VGT's are even bigger, and not as much clockable as these others are, and not to mention they are heavy, my he351ve weights 45lbs...

Much better controls than manual or vac for them are now made also.. i think the vgt will be the up & coming turbo for those that are willing to spend the money for the needed fab work & controls needed, a + is they are water cooled also...

Wow, 45 pounds!! That is the route I want to go though. I like the stuff I see that Steed is doing.

 

[3500_6.5]

Ever thought about using oval pipe ?

To be honest, no, I never really gave a thought to anything but round pipe. Would help with clearances, but I think with the body lift that I should have plenty of room for everything.


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[FellowTraveler]

Wow, 45 pounds!! That is the route I want to go though. I like the stuff I see that Steed is doing.

I've read of many complaints about the reliability of the VGT have they got past this issue yet, or?

 

[3500_6.5]

What about using either the Duramax VGT with a mechanical/vacuum vane actuator (since it is already set up as a center mount turbo), or a 5.9 Cummins VGT mounted so the compressor outlet is mounted facing forward like it is in its normal side-mount configuration, again with a mechanical/ vacuum vane actuator?

As of right now, I really have no need to go to vgt. My turbo works great with my pump and I have no real issues. The only thing I can say is that when I am occasionally hauling on the highway, 70 mph with a heavy load and running 2500+ rpms does seem to be pushing the turbo to higher boosts than needed. At that point, it would be nice to have a vgt. But really, it's not that big of a deal as it still does everything I need it to without any real issues.

I don't think there will be any issues with setting my turbo up for center mount. I think regardless of what turbo I use, I will still have to cater to the fact that the exhaust cannot exit at the back of the engine and has to be routed down the side. My turbo intake facing the driver side won't be an issue for me. I can adjust the intake accordingly if I don't end up going with a cowl induction. Plumbing for the intercooler also should not be an issue. But I suppose I will know more once I get that far.




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[3500_6.5]

I had a little time last night to do some more cutting and fitting. I got the passenger side manifold cut down and the elbow cut and fitted. And then tacked it all into place.

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[Burning oil]

Ford blue?

 

[3500_6.5]

It's called True Blue. I wanted a blue bc I like blue. But I'm undecided on this blue bc it looks a lot like Ford Blue. I had a truck that I painted gun metal gray and banzai blue and I really liked that blue. But I saw this one in a spray can at the parts store so I figured I would give it a try.


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[Husker6.5]

I was thinking more along the lines of being able to have better low rpm spoolability/boost/better fuel burn combined with the better exhaust flow at cruise speeds and when hard pulling. Most of the issues with VGT turbos were soot related and were addressed with some minor redesign. I know that it was considered to be part of "routine" maintenance every 30K miles to disassemble the exhaust housing and clean and service the vanes, actuator ring and housing interior.

I know a few years back a couple of high school aged guys put the Cummins Holset VGT turbos on their mechanical pumped 6.5's, one mechanically and one vacuum actuated, and got them into the Readers Rides section od Diesel Power. They were here on the forum briefly, but I haven't seen nor heard from either of them since. I was always curious as to what their experiences and results with running the VGTs on the 6.5 were and if there was an advantage to one way of controlling the vanes over the other.

 

[3500_6.5]

Tonight I got both intakes set on and held in place with a couple studs to see where exactly the turbo can actually sit. I cut down the 2 1/4" to 3" y pipe to get things close. To keep from making too many unnecessary bends, I decided I could clock the exhaust housing at roughly a 45* angle and do the same with the up pipes and flange. This keeps me from doing a bend into the valley and then another 90* bend up to make the flange straight up and down. Instead, I just have the one 45* at the valley that then directs the exhaust straight into the turbo. Seems like a better flowing setup to me that should work better.

Since I mocked up the driver side and tacked it together before I had both intakes on, I made it a little short. So I will have to extend it a couple inches to get it where it needs to be. I didn't take into account that the exhaust flange has to be slightly offset to the passenger side so that the oil drain will fit next to it and be able to drop down into the valley between the exhaust flange and the driver side intake. Luckily just a minor miscalculation that won't take much to fix. The passenger side up pipe, though, seems pretty dead on as to where I want it to be, so for now I will adjust the driver side and then recheck. Then hopefully I can tack it all together, mount the turbo, make a few brackets for it, and start welding it all together.

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[Husker6.5]

90° or tighter bends should be avoided like the plague if at all possible, especially tight radius bends. They are highly restrictive to flow and cause a lot of turbulence. A 45° bend, on the other hand, hardly affects flow at all. Learned from a plumber friend that every 90° el in 1/2" or 3/4" pipe is like adding another 10' of pipe to the run as far as dropping flow. Two 45s soldered together are like a straight run.

 

[FellowTraveler]

90° or tighter bends should be avoided like the plague if at all possible, especially tight radius bends. They are highly restrictive to flow and cause a lot of turbulence. A 45° bend, on the other hand, hardly affects flow at all. Learned from a plumber friend that every 90° el in 1/2" or 3/4" pipe is like adding another 10' of pipe to the run as far as dropping flow. Two 45s soldered together are like a straight run.

This is where the cobra-head style shines in those turns...........

 

[DieselSlug]

Excellent pics! Starting to come together.

 

[3500_6.5]

Here is where I currently am. After mounting the turbo and then doing more measuring, I decided I need to bring the pipes (mainly the passenger side) closer to the heads to make sure it clears. I thought I would have plenty of room, but that's when I was thinking the pipes would run lower, basically just about against and parallel to the bell housing. But since I lack a pipe bender and have to work with what I have and changed how the turbo will sit, the pipes ended up being a little higher than originally anticipated. So it will be VERY close to hitting the firewall. The passenger side probably would at minimum rub without some "massaging" of the firewall. So I'm going to cut the header a little shorter and bring the pipe closer to the head. That should take care of the clearance issue. I also am going to try to bring the turbo a little lower too. It will clear as is, but it sits a little high for my taste. I done think it will look bad sitting in the truck, but I figure since its out and easy to work on now, I might as well get it set where I like it and be done with it.


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[n8in8or]

Really nice Tim! I especially like your "Y". Did you make that or is it something you purchased?