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I just bought an LLY...

I never had any overheating problems with my LLY either, and I also traded up for an LBZ with 0% interest with a lower payment. I made out rather WELL.


I would ditch that grille there if you want your cooling system to function as designed. It doesn't look like it gets a whole lot of air there at all.
 
Do I need to remove the Serpentine belt to figure out the size? I checked on NAPA, and there were 8 different choices. I know I only have 1 alternator, but I don't know what draw it has...Do I have a vacuum pump? If I do, what's it power? And I have A/C. So, I guess I need help figuring out the vacuum pump & draw of alternator.

Also, can the egr be plugged under the tube instead of near the firewall (temporarily and would it make any difference)? Also, I can understand the delete plate for what's near the firewall, and the tube that will connect on top, but what about the piece under the tube? And the huge electrical plug that plugs into it? (I mean, I understand the finger stick(?) replaces something in there...but that plug that's in the end of the egr system looks rather complex... (I sure hope you guys know what I'm talking about)

Also, where am I supposed to get the new o-rings for when I change out the fuel filter? Are they THAT necessary?
 
treegump said:
Do I need to remove the Serpentine belt to figure out the size? I checked on NAPA, and there were 8 different choices. I know I only have 1 alternator, but I don't know what draw it has...Do I have a vacuum pump? If I do, what's it power? And I have A/C. So, I guess I need help figuring out the vacuum pump & draw of alternator.
You Do Not have a vacuum pump. We'll have to do some digging to find your belt

Also, can the egr be plugged under the tube instead of near the firewall (temporarily and would it make any difference)? Also, I can understand the delete plate for what's near the firewall, and the tube that will connect on top, but what about the piece under the tube? And the huge electrical plug that plugs into it? (I mean, I understand the finger stick(?) replaces something in there...but that plug that's in the end of the egr system looks rather complex... (I sure hope you guys know what I'm talking about)The "tube" you are talking about with the connector sticking out of it is the EGR motor. Plugging the EGR with a plate is the only way to do the job.

Also, where am I supposed to get the new o-rings for when I change out the fuel filter? Are they THAT necessary?
Click to expand...

The o-rings come with the filter.
I'll try to get back with more info later tonight if somebody else doesn't.
 
I installed the blocker plate at the firewall. It is a reach, but not too bad if you have a jointed socket.

I unplugged the EGR, but you can just leave it alone once the blocker plate is in place. As I mentioned, my truck did not throw any codes when I blocked and unplugged.
 
treegump said:
Also, where am I supposed to get the new o-rings for when I change out the fuel filter? Are they THAT necessary?
Click to expand...

they are in with the filters inside the plastic wrap...look inside the water sensor hole...there is a pack in each filter...I made sure they were there...
 
treegump said:
Do I need to remove the Serpentine belt to figure out the size? I checked on NAPA, and there were 8 different choices. I know I only have 1 alternator, but I don't know what draw it has...Do I have a vacuum pump? If I do, what's it power? And I have A/C. So, I guess I need help figuring out the vacuum pump & draw of alternator.

Also, can the egr be plugged under the tube instead of near the firewall (temporarily and would it make any difference)? Also, I can understand the delete plate for what's near the firewall, and the tube that will connect on top, but what about the piece under the tube? And the huge electrical plug that plugs into it? (I mean, I understand the finger stick(?) replaces something in there...but that plug that's in the end of the egr system looks rather complex... (I sure hope you guys know what I'm talking about)

Also, where am I supposed to get the new o-rings for when I change out the fuel filter? Are they THAT necessary?
Click to expand...

The finger stick replaces nothing in the system, it is an add on electrical box that hooks into the EGR and MAF wires. It is basically a fooler to make the ECM see a change in airflow when the EGR should be open when in reality it is not. You leave teh EGR hooked up as normal, and wire in the finger stick if you need one. To block the EGR you have to install a plate at the firewall, OR replace the passenger side up pipe with an LB7 one(no EGR port on it) and install a new intake support bridge as the EGR valve actually holds the intake in place. The plate is a cheap way to block the EGR off, and really isn't that hard to install on an earlier one(LMM is a PITA though). Nothing else is needed to block it off other than teh blocker plate installed before the EGR cooler near the firewall. Not all LLY's need a finger stick installed, some will just set a code in the ECM and not turn the light on or go into reduced power while others will turn the light on and run at reduced power. It's a crap shoot really wether you need a finger stick or not. ONLY the LB7 with CALI emissions had a vacuum pump, so your good with the LLY. With a single alternator there is 2 differrent belts for it, one for the 105 amp alternator, and another for the 130/145 amp one. Most only got the 105 amp, and the pics in the ad you linked to shows a 105 amp alternator so a GATES K061177 shows to be the correct belt for yours. As for the O-rings for the fuel filter, one goes on the water in fuel sensor that threads into the bottom, and the other goes in the groove on top where the filter contacts the base. Be careful to make sure the larger o-ring is in place properly and that it doesn't get pinched as this is a common problem to occur when you change fuel filters. I like to use some grease in the groove and then push teh o-ring down into the grease so it is held in place tightly when I do them.
 
They make kits and maybe a vendor on here even sells them to completely remove the EGR, EGR leak prone cooler, and block the entire deal like it wasn't even there. A $15.00 blocker plate part vs a $200.00 kit IRC. Cake walk for the blocker, but, you have to be careful of leaks.

The WIF sensor wrench and aluminum bleeder screw are nice to have and cheap. The top O-ring is a PIA on some as they want to stay bent from being shoved in the WIF port in the box. A 3/8" stand off for the filter housing also helps 'fingers' get the damn filter off. Ebay has kits to cut through the inner fender and put a filter door in although the 2005 doesn't need it for filter access like later years do.

Always have a spare filter on hand and avoid the *garbage* plastic body Wix fuel filters as they leak around the WIF sensor, suck air. Cut/reduced power from the air leak got my attention from the Wix... Never had that issue with AC delco filters. Just a fight for the O-Ring... The O-Rings are done after you tighten the filter as they stretch. Only remove the filter to replace it.

And if you really want to get fancy I think someone is selling retrofit kits to add cabin air filters to the HVAC like the 2002's had.
 
Pepperidge said:
they are in with the filters inside the plastic wrap...look inside the water sensor hole...there is a pack in each filter...I made sure they were there...
Click to expand...

Awesome - I didn't fully unwrap them because I haven't changed them yet. If I end up with no plans tomorrow, I may just go ahead and change the fuel filter and transmission filter, since there's no concerns of too big a mess, and not much fluid to dispose of. Should I do the transmission filter when the tranny is warmed up, or as its cool?

I seem to be noticing a 1/2"-1" play in the steering wheel...is that related to the tie-rod deal that was brought up earlier, or was/is there an issue with something closer to the stearing gear box (or the box itself?)?

Thanks alot for all the help. I know I've said it before, and I'll say it again, but it really is nice to just come here instead of trying to find something on another site! So thanks again!!
 
I'm also looking at shock absorbers from NAPA - just in the front for now. It doesn't appear that they sell bilsteins, but it appears that they have a wide variety of others. napa response, gas grande fleet, sensa-trac, reflex, gas (Altrom Imports), ranchho rs 5000, and rancho 3 shock kit w/ bracket

All of those choices were NAPA brands, but for the Altrom Imports & Rancho - and I think I'd rather stick with napa. The only question is, what are the differences between their shock selection?
 
And also, I've been noticing from other posts that you guys don't put 15w40 in for your oil changes? I've always used 15w40 in the 6.5, and bought some for the duramax... Do I need to return it and get something different?
 
I've got over 250k miles on 15w40 (2 trucks) and so have alot of other Duramax owners that are running dino oil. 5w40 if synthetic
 
I've always run Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40 in mine. I only drive it in the summer and change the oil on an annual basis, so the extra cost of synthetic is not justified to me.
 
treegump said:
I'm also looking at shock absorbers from NAPA - just in the front for now. It doesn't appear that they sell bilsteins, but it appears that they have a wide variety of others. napa response, gas grande fleet, sensa-trac, reflex, gas (Altrom Imports), ranchho rs 5000, and rancho 3 shock kit w/ bracket

All of those choices were NAPA brands, but for the Altrom Imports & Rancho - and I think I'd rather stick with napa. The only question is, what are the differences between their shock selection?
Click to expand...

I run the Rancho 9000 adjustables on mine...mainly because of drag racing...they need to be kept very clean in northern areas where salt is used on the road ...it will ruin the adjusting knobs...

I liked my bilsteins but the weren't much use for drag racing...

Bilsteins whether from NorCal truck or Kennedy is an option...just make sure that if you are cranking the torsion bars any that you get the right length...or you could get the model # and do your research for a good deal...

a good friend of mine that I gave my bilsteins to hated the stiffer ride and changed to monroe gas shocks and loves the smooth "car like" ride they give him... to each his own I guess...
 
I went ahead and reserved the reflex shocks. If I do anything with the suspension any time soon, it'll be a leveling kit which doesn't seem to require a different size shock. But I doubt I'll do anything to the suspension till I get everything else done first...and even then it'll only be a 3-4" lift...
 
Pepperidge said:
a good friend of mine that I gave my bilsteins to hated the stiffer ride and changed to monroe gas shocks and loves the smooth "car like" ride they give him... to each his own I guess...
Click to expand...
I like those ones he suggested I put on my truck.
I have spacers on the top to compensate for the cranked bars
Shock Spacer.jpg
 
Serpentine belt, air filter, shock absorbers, oil filter & oil, transmission filter (and accidently 8 qts of trans fluid - apologies & thanks goes out to Mike for his help), fuel filter, front & rear diff fluids are all changed. Had 2 "o crap" moments and minor bleeding (but the grease stopped it, haha).

Glad that's all out of the way. I have pics of the air filter & box....NASTY!! Will get posted soon.
 
MOOG vs Cognito steering parts? Or heavier? Looking for heavy duty steering parts, including but not limiting to tierods/pitman arm/sway bar links/idler arms. I don't offroad heavily alot, but I don't slow down on gravel roads...much. (And there are a lot of gravel roads out here, and I love them!!)
 
treegump said:
MOOG vs Cognito steering parts? Or heavier? Looking for heavy duty steering parts, including but not limiting to tierods/pitman arm/sway bar links/idler arms. I don't offroad heavily alot, but I don't slow down on gravel roads...much. (And there are a lot of gravel roads out here, and I love them!!)
Click to expand...

Personally I would go with MOOG or the MOOG problem solvers if they are available. Put in a set of stainless tie rod sleeves and call it good for daily driver use. If you plan on running it hard in 4X4, then put in a set of COGNITO braces for the idler and pitman arm while your doing them.
 
Is there a way to adjust the hood? Seems there's a little play in it.

Is it normal for there to be about an 1/8" of play in the cv shafts? (cv joint to cv joint)

I think the play is in the gear box itself, not in the other parts. Is this a common problem spot? Is there a way to tighten it?

Have you heard of a high idle switch for the lly? Is it as "simple" as installing a high idle on the 6.5? Via the ECM?

Are there any spots to route additional wiring for added lighting/etc through the firewall, or do I need to drill a hole?
 
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