I just bought an LLY...

[treegump]

It's being delivered tonight at 9pm. Seems its normal for this company to deliver trucks, haha. $570/month w/ 500 down, 60 month loan. Things I intend to do - long & short term.

Headache rack, adjustable ladder rack (for long loads), heavy duty bumpers only if I do a 4" lift.

But I suppose I should be realistic and just stick with EFI live for my first and only investment for now, haha.

 

[Pepperidge]

I'd actually start with a predator for the lly($269) and gauges...don't use higher than a 90rwhp tune(sparingly)but 70-75hp or tow tune and you can leave it set on that and you should be golden...

 

[BoostN]

It's being delivered tonight at 9pm. Seems its normal for this company to deliver trucks, haha. $570/month w/ 500 down, 60 month loan. Things I intend to do - long & short term.

Headache rack, adjustable ladder rack (for long loads), heavy duty bumpers only if I do a 4" lift.

But I suppose I should be realistic and just stick with EFI live for my first and only investment for now, haha.

Congrats Forest!

You'll love the Duramax.

To start out with, a used Predator for ~$200 is hard to beat. I would go that route until and swing the savings over EFILive for gauges and other stuff as mentioned.

 

[btfarm]

Did they get you a VIN check so you know everything done by a dealer throughout it's life?
Plan to change: F & R differentials. 2 & 4 qts respectively (75w90 synthetic), Transfer case, Allison spin on, Eng oil & filter if they haven't. I concur on the Predator for now. It's a bargain and foolproof. 85 HP tune and forget it.

 

[treegump]

Did they get you a VIN check so you know everything done by a dealer throughout it's life?
Plan to change: F & R differentials. 2 & 4 qts respectively (75w90 synthetic), Transfer case, Allison spin on, Eng oil & filter if they haven't. I concur on the Predator for now. It's a bargain and foolproof. 85 HP tune and forget it.

No, I didn't get it. I also didn't check my lights or cd player either. Cd player likes to make a grinding noise and spit my cd back out, and my passenger tail/brake light is out. And I didn't find out till after I signed the papers saying that I acknowledged that I was getting it AS IS.

Anyhow, I believe I can change all those fluids this weekend. (I assume it's mostly like changing other fluids?) Any advice on what to use for the transfer case & allison spin on (filter?)? (I assume I'll be changing the tranny fluid when I change the allison spin on?)

 

[BoostN]

No, I didn't get it. I also didn't check my lights or cd player either. Cd player likes to make a grinding noise and spit my cd back out, and my passenger tail/brake light is out. And I didn't find out till after I signed the papers saying that I acknowledged that I was getting it AS IS.

Anyhow, I believe I can change all those fluids this weekend. (I assume it's mostly like changing other fluids?) Any advice on what to use for the transfer case & allison spin on (filter?)? (I assume I'll be changing the tranny fluid when I change the allison spin on?)

You can check the color of the trans fluid, but I wouldn't put that on the top of the priority list. Just my opinion though..Transyd is a commonly used fluid but expensive.

For the filter, use GENUINE ALLISON FILTERS ONLY! Order from the internet or a Allison dealer. Don't go to the dealer to buy one as they are about 5x more (no kidding).

Those radios are known for the cd players to go out. You can find pull outs fairly cheap, but you'll have to have the dealer program it to your truck.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

For an LLY I would go a bit lower on the HP levels than 90. Stick wth a 60-65HP tune for a LLY. The last of the 5 speeds were stretched pretty far just to hold up the LLY stock, let alone a tuned one. SOME can hold a 90HP tune, but many will limp with much more than a 65HP tune if you flog it much. Personally my first mods fro an LLY would be an LBZ mouthpiece, better air box, exhaust(ditch the kitty and put on a free flow muffler), put an EGR blocker plate in(and finger stick it if you go with something besides EFILIVE for tuning), a used predator, and start saving for a trans if you need more power.

 

[treegump]

Well, I'm planning on stopping by napa when I get a chance. If I can fit my truck in the garage, I'll change it this weekend. Do we have a sponsor that'll sells duramax stuff, including the Allison filter?

One thing I forgot to mention, I was informed that the po had a new transfer case installed less than a year ago and supposedly has a 3 year warranty, but unsure if it carries over to me. Other than that, there were no other warranties.

 

[Odlaw]

No, I didn't get it. I also didn't check my lights or cd player either. Cd player likes to make a grinding noise and spit my cd back out, and my passenger tail/brake light is out. And I didn't find out till after I signed the papers saying that I acknowledged that I was getting it AS IS.

Anyhow, I believe I can change all those fluids this weekend. (I assume it's mostly like changing other fluids?) Any advice on what to use for the transfer case & allison spin on (filter?)? (I assume I'll be changing the tranny fluid when I change the allison spin on?)

If you have a Allison shop near you, for some reason their prices are very low. I pay $7.97 for my spin on filters (genuine Allison) and $30.00 per gallon for TranSynd (made by Castrol for Allison) - that's 7.50 per quart. Before I knew that Allison was not recommending Dex VI any longer I paid $8.90 a quart for it.....so, TranSynd's not too bad. Wix spin on is $24.00 and GM from the dealer was around $40.00.

 

[btfarm]

The 5 sp Allison behind the LLY should be DEX III. DEX VI came along with the 6 spd. I wouldn't worry about changing the TC fluid right now if it was replaced. I then would think about the 3 qt M1 overfill but we can discuss that later. As to Allison spin on filters, Greg sells those http://www.lubricationspecialist.co...ch&search_in=all&search_str=Allison&x=62&y=14 or locally if you can find it. You will only need to fill the new filter with fresh fluid and don't forget to transfer the magnet from the old one. 1 Qt of trans fluid should do for now with just the filter change.

 

[treegump]

I don't mind paying for transynd, so if it's interchangeable (since I don't know what's in there now), I'll just get that when I change the filter and swap the magnet.

Im working with a different crew today, so not getting back till late. When I do make it to napa, I'll get a manual and tail light. Then I'll look up capacities and try to get all my fluids at once, along with a drain pan.

Off topic, but how long do you typically wait to start the truck? Every dealer (who knew nothing of trucks, let alone the duramax) cranked like a gas...no waiting. And I'm used to my 6.5 and heavy equipment where you have to wait .5-2 min, haha. Thoughts?

 

[btfarm]

When the WTS light goes off is when you crank it. 0-3 sec this time of year. Up to 5 sec in cold weather.
Trans capacity is 14 qts total. about 1/2 that with a drain and refil. A Hoot method change (see DIY section) is about 15 gal IIRC
I wouldn't change the trans to Transynd unless ready to do the Hoot method. (I need to do that)
Rear diff 4 qts, front 2 qts. Both 75W90 Synthetic. M1 is good but I'm going with WalMart 'SuperTech" on my next change (overdue).
Stock Fuel filter? Greg has those as well but they're pricey anywhere you get them. Just don't go to a dealer. Be careful with the WIF sensor.
We should have DIYs on most everything you want to do and you can always ask.

 

[Grendahl]

Off topic, but how long do you typically wait to start the truck? Every dealer (who knew nothing of trucks, let alone the duramax) cranked like a gas...no waiting. And I'm used to my 6.5 and heavy equipment where you have to wait .5-2 min, haha. Thoughts?

The truck will have a glow plug indicator light in the dash. Just turn the key to on, and wait for the light to go out before cranking. How long that takes depends on how cold it is. I only drive my truck in the warmer part of the year, so for me the wait is only one or two seconds.

 

[Odlaw]

The 5 sp Allison behind the LLY should be DEX III. DEX VI came along with the 6 spd. I wouldn't worry about changing the TC fluid right now if it was replaced. I then would think about the 3 qt M1 overfill but we can discuss that later. As to Allison spin on filters, Greg sells those http://www.lubricationspecialist.co...ch&search_in=all&search_str=Allison&x=62&y=14 or locally if you can find it. You will only need to fill the new filter with fresh fluid and don't forget to transfer the magnet from the old one. 1 Qt of trans fluid should do for now with just the filter change.

Good call Mike, I was thinking 6 sp ally...and good advice on the magnet. I now have a label either on the side of the tranny or on the bell housing that says something like "move magnet to new filter before installing" lol, yes, after driving for 2 days I remembered that I did not move the magnet...so, I had to dig the filter out of my shop trash can to retrieve and reinstall it. :mad2:

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

When the WTS light goes off is when you crank it. 0-3 sec this time of year. Up to 5 sec in cold weather.
Trans capacity is 14 qts total. about 1/2 that with a drain and refil. A Hoot method change (see DIY section) is about 15 gal IIRC
I wouldn't change the trans to Transynd unless ready to do the Hoot method. (I need to do that)
Rear diff 4 qts, front 2 qts. Both 75W90 Synthetic. M1 is good but I'm going with WalMart 'SuperTech" on my next change (overdue).
Stock Fuel filter? Greg has those as well but they're pricey anywhere you get them. Just don't go to a dealer. Be careful with the WIF sensor.
We should have DIYs on most everything you want to do and you can always ask.

HOOT emthod is 5 gallons, and total trans capacity including converter is about 18 quarts for a stocker(20 quarts if you have a triple disc converter with shallow pan). For fluid I would just use a good DEX/MERC universal fluid in it for now if you ever plan on tuning it down the road. The LLY 5 speed is weak so I wouldn't go putting $170 worth the fluid in it when chances are you will be building it down the road(And TRANSYND does not work well in a built trans). As for the wait to start time if it is above about 50 out, chances are teh wait to start light will only be on for 1-2 seconds. When it's warm out they start just like a gasser does for the most part on the LLY+(LB7's use the old school glow plugs and have much longer glow times). I know I have my glow times in mine set to where they don't come on unless it is down to about 50 out.

 

[treegump]

HOOT emthod is 5 gallons, and total trans capacity including converter is about 18 quarts for a stocker(20 quarts if you have a triple disc converter with shallow pan). For fluid I would just use a good DEX/MERC universal fluid in it for now if you ever plan on tuning it down the road. The LLY 5 speed is weak so I wouldn't go putting $170 worth the fluid in it when chances are you will be building it down the road

Woah, woah, I thought Allisons were good transmissions! You mean I just committed to a 25k buck truck that doesn't have a decent transmission?

 

[Dieseldad97]

Congrats Forest. What a huge power difference from a 6.5 eh? I'd love to see some pics of your new ride.

As for more stuff to do...look up and do the DIY inj cleaning. It's worth it IMO.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Woah, woah, I thought Allisons were good transmissions! You mean I just committed to a 25k buck truck that doesn't have a decent transmission?

I din't say it was a junk transmission, but the LLY's stock were at the limits of what the 5 speed could handle just about. Some get by with a 90HP tune and they live a long time if you drive them with common sense and don't get on it in 4th or 5th gear, but it doesn't take much abuse and it will limp in 5th on a 90HP tune. The ALLISON can hold alot of power stock, it just can't hold it during a shift. 1st through 3rd they are pretty strong stock, but 4th and 5th you need to be careful if you go bigger than a 60HP tune. Also the tuning plays a big role in how much it will hold as well. I put a big defuel in all of them I tune just for the safety of the trans.

 

[treegump]

I din't say it was a junk transmission, but the LLY's stock were at the limits of what the 5 speed could handle just about. Some get by with a 90HP tune and they live a long time if you drive them with common sense and don't get on it in 4th or 5th gear, but it doesn't take much abuse and it will limp in 5th on a 90HP tune. The ALLISON can hold alot of power stock, it just can't hold it during a shift. 1st through 3rd they are pretty strong stock, but 4th and 5th you need to be careful if you go bigger than a 60HP tune. Also the tuning plays a big role in how much it will hold as well. I put a big defuel in all of them I tune just for the safety of the trans.

Ok, thanks for the reassurance. So, can I tune a big defuel using the predator, or is that with something like EFI live? (I've never dealt with programmable chips.) Also, I came across some modification that could be done to the allison...should I consider that if/when I change the fluid?

Also, do any sponsors here sell gauges, or the predator, or LBZ air box or maybe just the mouthpiece? I just found out I had an account at duramaxforum; are they a good place to support sponsors, and get information?

 

[treegump]

Also, is it ok to purchase my fuel filter from NAPA (gold)?

Also, I keep seeing choices for the allison: 1000, 2000, and 2400 - all 5 spd automatics. How I know which one is mine?