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Custom 6.2l build - new guy here

Looking through your pics I think at least 1" could be taken out of the pan corner before it would hit the girdle. I know that's not what you want to hear.

Your girdle was 2" wasn't it? the pan looks to be more than 3" at the corner. A welding shop could fix that without too much work.

I don't know if the cross member could be lowered as it's riveted to the frame.
 
Notch the crossmember....people notch their frames all the time....just make sure that you reinforce it somehow to retain it's integrity...
 
I have welded a fair number of frames and it wouldn't be a problem if done properly. For me I would rather do the pan if possible.
 
Yes, you have to build your own oil pan, any pics I've seen the pan looks very shallow at the front.
 
No way to raise it up an inch or so without interference?

You have that front crossover very close, should be easy to re-inforce. Be sure to give her enough room to flex, although that oilpan looks pretty tough!!
 
I wouldn't mess with the crossmember if you like having nice alignment, good cornering and integrity when you accidentally hit a curb or a deep pothole or such. If there is a few inches clearance in the pan I'd modify that, a shop could pretty easily cut out that corner and weld in an indented patch. You would just have to take the pan off, which is not a lot of fun.

Looking at it more you have a lot of steel up there in front of the crossmember, looks pretty stong, but whenever I notch frames its so I know which way its bending when I smash into another demolition derby car.
 
update

been real busy and have no money. Got the cross member notched and the engine sitting in there correctly. I am going to box-in the bottom of the cross member to re-enforce it where I cut. I have the transmission hooked up and I have been working on getting the wiring.

This has been taking up most of my time;

IMG_2535.jpg


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Casey Robert von Schalscha, Born 5/23, 7lbs 4oz, 20 inches long.

Bri and Casey are doing great. Casey's older brothers are doing good as well, but our 2 year old has some jealousy issues.
We bought my wife a '99 gasser burb, so mine is no longer a priority.

I am at the stage where I need to get my exhaust done. I need the whole shabang; cross-over, down-pipe, and down-pipe to tailpipe. Living in a small town, I only have 1 local exhaust guy. He can only bend 2.5" pipe and that is crumple bends. After talking to him, I do not want him to do the work.

I figure I have two options; 1. Trailer the suburban down to redding and have a shop custom do me up or 2. order the down-pipe and crossover from banks (perhaps the whole setup) and a 4" kit from someone like diamond eye for a NBS burb and make it fit.

#1 sucks as I would have to find skinner wheels to get my burb on my trailer, then get my non-running burb up on the trailer, trailer it 60+ miles, get it off the trailer, and then reverse the steps to get it back home.

#2 is not to bad. Banks wants $333 for the down-pipe and cross-over shipped. Banks assures me that it will fit. I then would have to order up an exhaust kit for another $350 or so. My biggest concern would be fitting the exhaust kit to the banks down-pipe. I can get the 3" banks kit for $320.
 
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Cute kid.

Diamond Eye should be less than $350 for cross over and complete turbo back exh.
 
NVW said:
Cute kid.

Diamond Eye should be less than $350 for cross over and complete turbo back exh.
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Yeah, I found the Diamond Eye kit for $275 shipped. Not bad at all. It does not appear to include the cross-over, but it does not matter. I need the cross-over and down-pipe from Banks (or custom) as mine is in a solid axle burb and the 6.5l turbo stuff will not fit. If I go the Diamond Eye route, I will have a new diamond eye down-pipe to sell.
 
I'll take the downpipe when you get the system, looking at just doing a 5" stack in the dually.
 
Glad to hear you're moving on this again. Can't wait to see the post that says you just fired it up!

Out of curiosity, did you happen to take any measurements on how much the girdle would have to be modified in order to allow the stock pan to fit? Do you think the whole forward part of the rails would really have to be sacrificed? I'm about to do some fitting and measuring myself, but thought I'd see if could reap some benefit from your experience first. I suppose I should hit Max up too...

Congratulations on your little boy.. he's beautiful !
 
redshift96 said:
Glad to hear you're moving on this again. Can't wait to see the post that says you just fired it up!

Do not expect things to go to quick. We are hurting $$$ wise big time since my wife left her job to be a stay-at-home mom.

Out of curiosity, did you happen to take any measurements on how much the girdle would have to be modified in order to allow the stock pan to fit? Do you think the whole forward part of the rails would really have to be sacrificed? I'm about to do some fitting and measuring myself, but thought I'd see if could reap some benefit from your experience first. I suppose I should hit Max up too...

I think there is room, but the best bet would be to ask MaxPF.

Congratulations on your little boy.. he's beautiful !
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Thanks! Nothing better then a healthy baby.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Congrats man! Very good looking son you have there!

I'm very happy with my Diamond Eye exhaust.
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I am just hoping the the Diamond Eye exhaust fits with-out too much hassle. My biggest concern is how it will hook up to the Banks down-pipe and squeezing past the T-case.
 
I am back! Our financial picture has changed a bit for the better and I have the wife's permission to spend some money to get the truck going. I am still super busy raising my 3 boys, romancing the wife, going to school (x2), finishing the house, and working. This may be a long process, but I want to drive my frickin truck!

I am hoping to get my buddy over to the house with his service truck so I can finish up the cross-member (welding a plate on it to box it in where we cut it).

I got my cross-over and downpipe from Banks. They fit great, which was a concern due to how tight everything is.

I just bought a Racor fuel filter/water seperator and fuel heater as well as a A/C bypass pulley (my A/C lines will have to be redone as the compressor moved to the other side with the Serp Belt setup). which will get me going until I have funds and the need for A/C.

I will be ordering body mounts this weekend from ORD. My core support mounts were toast and it is cheaper to buy the whole kit. I will need to locate the hardware (bolts) for the core support as those are toast as well.
 
I would like to put exhuast (header) wrap on my cross-over and downpipe. Is there a certain type I should be looking at? It seems the standard is fiberglass, but they also have ceramic, copper coated, and titanium. There is name brand (DEI & Theromtec) and generics on ebay.

What should I get?


As I have never done an engine replacement, I may need some help getting this thing going so expect a lot of questions from me. :):cool::hello:
 
Mikey von said:
I will be ordering body mounts this weekend from ORD. My core support mounts were toast and it is cheaper to buy the whole kit. I will need to locate the hardware (bolts) for the core support as those are toast as well.
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The ORD kit doesn't come with hardware by the looks of things. I originally bought a kit form Energy Suspension but returned it when i found it didn't come with hardware either. LMC has a kit that comes with all the hardware. The kit for my blazer(core support, body mounts, and hardware) is ~$200. I'd figure yours would be close to that price, but i'm not sure. The poly mounts flex differently from what i've read when compared to the typical rubber mounts so i don't know if you can install them on just the core support and not the body.
 
Just read your thread. Very nice!!! I was soo nervous when i started my engine for the first time, took me a day of checking things 10 times to get enough guts to crank it. Take your time from the beginning and youll be good! Looking forward to seeing more!
 
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