84 K5 Blazer DMAX ????

[Missy Good Wench]

OOOOOK

Now I got this here 84 K5 Blazer and am still loking at it as a clean sheet of paper.

A Dmax in modest power trim will work fine with a 4L80 tranny.

I can easily adapt the 4L80 to work with a Tcase that the Blazer will like.

(RH drop)

From what I have heard the DMAX is similar in size to a 6.5 or a BBC.

Now what can be done in the way of a simple install so I can keep the 84 dash and gauges intact.

I want the engine to run OK but dont want to sort out trying to install the late cluster.


The big issue is the cost to obtain a 2001 LB7 truck for $$$$$$$$$ that are reasonable.

Looked at two today and they were thrashed, $8K was the lowest price and the truck was a real POS.

For that money I can have one helluva 6.5 TD in the Old girl.

A Dmax would be sweet though.

Any thoughts would be way cool.


MGW

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

If you want to go with a 4L80E trans, your easiest swap will be a LLY out of a 2006 VAN as it already has a 4L80E trans with the DMAX engine and the correct TCM to talk to it. Or you could run a VAN TCM with a DMAX engine, but I don't know what calibration yopu would run as one doesn't exist for a stock 4L80E TCM to work with a LB7 or LLY ECM(06+ are CAN BUS whereas the 05- use J1850 for the data link to the OBD2 plug and then J1939 for the ECM to FICM and TCM). A stand-alone TCM would be your easiest way and then just get a manual trans calibration in the ECM. You will probably need some custom tuning to get it all ironed out since the ECM will now be blind to everything else in the vehicle. The 4L80E WILL be your weak link though, no ifs and or buts about it. If you run it in 1st through 3rd it will live a somewhat decent life if it is built to the hilt per say, but 4th gear is where things get dangerous with the 4L80E. I know MIKE L is working on some stuff to try and get one to hold up to a DMAX, but the last I talked with him nothing was definate yet.

I know that the NX MUSTANG and the BUICK GRAND NATIONAL are both running 4L85E's with some healthy DURAMAX's in front of em, but these are lightweight street cars and 4th gear is used gingerly in them. The ALLISON is only about 3/4" longer, but it is about 2 inches taller and about 3 inches deeper(about 5-6 inches total height difference between them). It is possible to run a driverside drop T-case with an ALLISON as well as there are a few NP205's out there behind the ALLISON.

Getting the engine to run is relatively easy in all actuality, just slightly time consuming to sort out the connectors. You won't need but about 1/2 of the wiring that is there to make it run, but it is worth the time to do it yourself when PPE gets $1200 to mod a harness for you. I can check my diagrams later on, but I believe there are about 2 constant feed 12V+ fused feeds and 4 or 5 keyed feeds that are fused(2 will be hooked up via a relay then fused, ECM main feed and the FICM) to make the DURAMAX/ALLISON combo run. Then you have 2 wires to hook up to low wattage bulbs for the check engine and wait to start and she is happy with no check engine lights. You WILL need EFILIVE, PPE, or a custom tuned ECM from one of the many vendors out there to bypass the theftlock if you want to minimize the wiring as much as possible. Then again a BCM only requires 2 grounds, 3 power wires, one wire to the OBD2 plug, one ire to the ECM for the theft command, and then a resistor hooked across the igniton switch sensor wires and it will run(bypassing the theftlock via programming is still a better option).

There is no need to transfer in a DMAX dash or cluster to make the swap work, I didn't and mine works just fine. You can also contact member pussow over at the place as he did a swap into his 87 using a 4L85E(he later switched to an ALLISON though for strength as the 4L85E couldn't cut it). He is also the one who sells the conversion CD on EBAY. This swap is a nice swap once you're done with it, but it won't be cheap as DURAMAX's are still fetching a premium even for running take-outs(normally ranging from $3500 to $5500 on EBAY).

I got my 01 donor for $6K and it drove itself onto the trailer. I did pay a bit much though as mine didn't have a radiator or intercooler on it(got a used IC for $250, but the radiator set me back about $350 for a new one from CARQUEST), but I ended up selling the truck for $1500 afterwards because it still had a useable cab and a clear title with good running gear under it still. And I recovered my costs on my trasfer case when I sold the one from the donor as it was electric shift and I needed a manual shift. So I basically spent $4500 for a running engine and trans with ALL of the harness's and needed modules which would have cost a small fortune to have bought from a junkyard. If I would have waited a little longer I'm sure I could have gotten one cheaper as I know they were bringing about $4K at auction for equivelant trucks, but I got impatient and wanted to get this thing done now not later. Of course though, everytiome I latch onto 8K pounds and throw it around like a ragdoll I am reminded of why I did this swap. And burnouts are fun too):h.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

OK

This all sounds very interesting indeed.

Obviously the Allison is the way to go.

The issue seems to be that the Body is going to need to be lifted some to get the little beastie in the truck.

Maybe a 4" body lift to get some serious room under the sheetmetal.

This is definately looking like a serious project and far more serious $$$$$ than Likely can be mustered at this time.

BuTTTTTTTTTTTTT ya never know what might come down the trail. I have a lot of connections and may be able to yank some strings and get a good deal on a roll over or ??? that I can strip out.

Seems that completely stripping out a donor rig and using everything would eliminate a buttload of issues.

The only thing that probably would not be useable would be the HVAC system, but then again I have not looked at the never system to see if it would fit with a little help.

I can only imagine how squirrely a K5 Blazer would be with that kind of Power up front.

Hmmmmm the little 10 bolt rear will no doubt be the FUSE.

I have had built 454's up front in Blazers but nothing with the hard assed Grunt of the DMAX

Thanks

I will be snooping for now to see what I can scrounge up.

The $$$$$$$$$4 are probably going to scuttle the idea, at least for now.

Hard to cuddle up to a mundane little 6.2 after thinking about something sooooo way cool as a DMAX

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

Yeah, the 10 bolt would be a pretty weak link, but maybe not as bad as you think. I know Bigley said he ran his 10 bolt for awhile in his truck before it gave him problems, and he was running some pretty healthy power through it. The 9.5" is an easy enough swap though to replace it with to take care of that. A 2" body lift would probably be enough to make it fit in there, but 3" would be better. All you really need is the wiring from the underhood fuse panel and forward for the engine and trans along with a 6.5 throttle pedal and connector to get one to run. As far as fitment goes, I imagine getting the it squeezed in would be a bit of a challenge but by no means impossible. The $$$$ is a big concern as it can get REAL expensive REAL quick with a DMAX. A PPE economy tuner would get you around the PASSLOCK system and make the engine run and would still be at safe power levels for a stock ALLISON, but if you go with an ALLISON I reccomend installing the BCM to get tow/haul mode. Youy would need the instrument cluster if you wnated a tow/haul indicator, but if you didn't then you wouldn't need it. There are so many ways to go about this swap, this is why there is so much planning that should be done beforehand to make it go somewhat smoothly.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Did a bunch more snooping yesterday and the Cost for a Donor truck is going to be way beyond what can be done at this time.

Going to have to fall back to just freshening up a 6.2/6.5 and stuffing it back in the hole and enjoying.

Donor trucks out here are spendy even in very sad condition.


Thanks for the input.

Missy

 

[Acesneights1]

It would be way cheaper and easier to stuff a Cummins in it. Besides Missy I know you....You don't like electronics anymore than I do...
If you could find a 24v donor then P pump you would crazy serious brute HP. There are kits available I think to stuff a Cummins in our Body style. There is a guy with a k30 dually that I know who did it. Best of all with the Cummins, no electronics and a cheap easy engine to work on. Just address the KDP if you run a 12v.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

If it was mine and didn't mind the noise, I would go with a P-pumped 4BT CUMMINS mated up to a 4L80E trans. Enough power to move anything sane for a K5 BLAZER, could be built to about 250HP rather easily, and get 30MPG or there abouts to boot.

 

[ak diesel driver]

if you don't mind the vibrations at idle.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

Good friend installed a 4BT in his dads 92 Burb
They used the Mopar 47 RH tranny and the Dodge style T case

I am not a fan of the 4 cylinder Cummins.

Just an Old V8 gal ya know

If fuel was cheap I would stuff a 502 under the hood and let it rip.

Looks like the Blazer/Mutt is going to remain with a 6.2 or 6.5 under the hood for now.

Missy

 

[Acesneights1]

nuttin wrong with that.

 

[Koots]

Did a bunch more snooping yesterday and the Cost for a Donor truck is going to be way beyond what can be done at this time.

Going to have to fall back to just freshening up a 6.2/6.5 and stuffing it back in the hole and enjoying.

Donor trucks out here are spendy even in very sad condition.


Thanks for the input.

Missy

I just spent $5000 on a wrecked 2500HD for it's drivetrain recently (LQ4,4L80E, manual t-case). it's a 2005 and only had 60,000kms on it (less than 40,000 miles). It was worth it for the ease of swapping in different year stuff but was still expensive for a truck with a trashed bed, rear axle and fenders.