"$= ARM+LEG". My Canadian friend's rate is "Wow eh?"
$184 unless you want the fancier looking ones for show cars. In theory it's a lifetime unit- a gasket every decade or so maybe, for $5ish using multi-industry available quad ring. The other parts are theirs exclusive afaik, but they sell replacement parts should your dog eat something.
A group by might help?
S19 is their filter crossed over from AC Delco pf1218series.
http://kandpengineering.com/product-catalog/s19/
More dribble from Will for the very bored individuals:
From doing all the filter testing I did at the oil company, one thing that's glazed over is how the filters really get the rating. Any filter that is 25 µm -microns- (talk texting put the symbol, so I left it) actually starts out letting 40 micron through. It is not until the filter is at 10% capacity that it is measured. Many people beat up K&N when they explained the design on the air filters, but that's industry standard-consumers just don't know.
Using a screen instead of absorbent media starts out at an exact still trying to pass using a screen instead of absorbent media starts out at an exact filtering capacity- this one is 30 microns. The AC Delco's 1218 that were my standby, we tested at 41 micron (remembered because of my ruger revolver .41 caliber and a day of shooting after work testing filters).
So I'm not worried about its high count to start with. But I know it will never get the fine stuff like any soot. But no spin on filter can until it is close to full. There are a few that advertise 1 micron (which experience teaches me they start at 15ish). But the finer the filter the more it slows the flow unless it is a HUGE filter. For the volume our oil pumps run a true 1 micron filter not restricting flow would is 12" diameter and 20" long. 20gpm at 1 psi. We used them at the plastics to oil outfit, waiting for our custom screen filter to be made. Iirc our hv oil pump is 18.5 gpm, so...yeah a real 1 micron filter that fits in your hand is going to be very restrictive.
Getting the oil volume to the bearings is what you want, not high pressure. It's something like 1 psi/hundred ft lbs torque to float a bearing- having the oil flow at a faster rate is what helps the hydroplane effect of floating the bearing on the oil, not the 100psi oil pressure holding back the force of the rod pushing the crankshaft.
The only draw back to this for a diesel is the very fine stuff. A passive filter in conjunction is the answer. All of you that don't do massive angles off roading a cf is the clear answer. So I'm thinking about cf oil flow shut off valve controlled from driver seat to temporary turn off when putting my truck at stupid angles.
I don't want to go secondary oil pump at high pressure like heavy equipment, but if I did and used electric driven pump, it could circulate oil overnight cleaning all the time- just have to use battery tendor or something if 12 volt.
Adding a Parker self closing quick disconnect (I have part number somewhere from last 5 I bought) on the oil feed to cf then you can use external 120v pump into cf, just have to add a Parker disconnect in place of drain plug, or add another one in oil pan. I would pull from where my provent drain would attach. Cleaning from the bottom of the drain pan engine off is theoretically ideal.
The cf is 55gpm, but passive when engine is running. Doing it 12-14 hours every night while the truck sleeps- I bet you pull out every bit of soot in the oil. That's all your engine oil over 20,000 cycles through the cf every night! Talk about extending oil change life! Over kill, maybe. But if your Diesel engine oil was too clean (haha) you could always cut back to once or twice a week if the bell curve showed you that's enough to clean all your oil.
Another location is a tee on each line of the oil cooling circuit maybe? Somebody stop me now before I reengineer the oil circuit.
