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Wiring issues 1998 Toro 220D mower

jrsavoie

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Rural Clifton, Illinois
Toro 220D model 30794 serial 86000

Wiring issues. Previous owner made a
Mess.

Ground cable is disconnected from the battery.

Pulled the 5 or 6 wire plug off the ignition switch.

Between the battery ground post and every pin on the starter plug, there is voltage showing.

Even from the valve cover.

He didn't use proper colors of wires. Makes it harder to trace.

I had pulled the lift pump wire and put it on a toggle switch. First thing I noticed was the lift pump running all of the time.


We've been running like this for quite some time.

I had a brake issue and while waiting for the cable, I opened the control panel to replace the ignition switch - which was hanging in the start position.

I have the schematic, but having trouble following it.

If anyone close is interested, I'd pay good money to have it right.

It really can't be that bad, Im just tired and not thinking.
If he had at least used the correct color wires. It'd be easier to sort out.- I understand that. You use what you have.

I've taken to really avoiding using the wrong color wires. I've bit myself a couple times.

I think he had a mouse issue

 
Last edited:
Off a relay he had pins 86 & 87 tied together with a few inches of wire each off the relay

Something about that doesn't seem right.

I think I got all the ignition switch wires figured out
 
I lost the war. I got some stuff cleaned up.

He's got something cobbled up that I can't find.

Somewhere he must have tapped into the wire that feeds the lift pump/ fuel shut off and it's hot all the time.

I did some cobbling of my own and put them on a toggle switch
 
When I butt my head against problems such as wiring issues that You are having.
Do a print out of the harness. Enlarged if possible, even if You have to take the diagram to a print shop. Trim the borders from each printed page so that each diagrammed wire aligns with the next page so that there will be no borders and just solid wire runs, page to page. Scotch tape the pages together. When I get to work I will take a pic of a 1445 John Deere wiring diagram I did similar too and post it. Yeah, at My new job I was thrown onto a wiring problem that a dozen other hands had screwed with and now the new guy was left to figure it out. I went to the JD dealer and had them print out the proper diagram.
Totally remove that harness. Lay it out on a sheet of plywood or OSB and thumb tack down each wire end.
Now the tricky part. Clip each wire, leaving a real nice pigtail of each color.
If You can find the proper color wire then lay in each wire and solder/heat shrink each pigtail to the new harness.
If pigtail ends have been clipped then it is useful to have wires of the proper color and run that color a little longer than what might be needed. Using connectors of a quality as close to original as possible is a big help, spade and ring terminals are quite common. Crimp and solder on those terminals.
Take and untack Your new harness, lay it into the machine, even if it means having to remove the engine and components to lay the harness in in one piece. Hook it all together and be done with wiring issues.
I have used this method even on sizable loaders and different sorts of machines with great success.
 
When I butt my head against problems such as wiring issues that You are having.
Do a print out of the harness. Enlarged if possible, even if You have to take the diagram to a print shop. Trim the borders from each printed page so that each diagrammed wire aligns with the next page so that there will be no borders and just solid wire runs, page to page. Scotch tape the pages together. When I get to work I will take a pic of a 1445 John Deere wiring diagram I did similar too and post it. Yeah, at My new job I was thrown onto a wiring problem that a dozen other hands had screwed with and now the new guy was left to figure it out. I went to the JD dealer and had them print out the proper diagram.
Totally remove that harness. Lay it out on a sheet of plywood or OSB and thumb tack down each wire end.
Now the tricky part. Clip each wire, leaving a real nice pigtail of each color.
If You can find the proper color wire then lay in each wire and solder/heat shrink each pigtail to the new harness.
If pigtail ends have been clipped then it is useful to have wires of the proper color and run that color a little longer than what might be needed. Using connectors of a quality as close to original as possible is a big help, spade and ring terminals are quite common. Crimp and solder on those terminals.
Take and untack Your new harness, lay it into the machine, even if it means having to remove the engine and components to lay the harness in in one piece. Hook it all together and be done with wiring issues.
I have used this method even on sizable loaders and different sorts of machines with great success.

Thank you. It may come to that. On the yellow safety wires he had a fuse stuck on a couple female spade connectors. Must have been a 30 amp fuse.

The whole thing was charred, but the fuse never blew. I've never seen anything like that before. It's like there was fire around it. And the wiring wasn't the actual source of the heat.

But it had to be, there's nothing else near it

I've been keeping my eye out for a parts machine, with an intact wiring harness.

One post on the ignition switch is hot all the time instead of just at key on.

Which Means of of the wires to a different post, that makes with that post is hot when it shouldn't ought to be.

It's going to have to wait.

I have to finish swapping the lift arms, today's project, if I ever get out of bed. And my wife will mow while I work on a different mower.

Next mower needs brake cables, rear weights and most likely a PTO belt.

Might add lights after we get done mowing a couple times.

We're mowing much taller than normal since the grass has gotten so tall.
 
Yup. Here is the next trick:
Go buy an artist set of colored highlighter markers.

A label maker that can print small numbers/ names to attach easier to read the way you can write by hand
 
Yup. Here is the next trick:
Go buy an artist set of colored highlighter markers.

A label maker that can print small numbers/ names to attach easier to read the way you can write by hand

Here is how I like to lay out wiring diagrams.
After finished with them, fold them up and add that to the factory repair manual.
View attachment 87671
On the time delay and relay.

I am not positive what wires correspond to the pin numbers.

I'm guessing the yellow & white going to the seat switch and the wire I have yellow written by, are 86 & 30

And guessing the yellow wire going to the ignition switch, by NO on the schematic is 87.

Any thoughts?

The schematic is in the link under parts if you scroll down

 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240519_102006.jpg
    IMG_20240519_102006.jpg
    50.7 KB · Views: 1
On the time delay and relay.

I am not positive what wires correspond to the pin numbers.

I'm guessing the yellow & white going to the seat switch and the wire I have yellow written by, are 86 & 30

And guessing the yellow wire going to the ignition switch, by NO on the schematic is 87.

Any thoughts?

The schematic is in the link under parts if you scroll down

 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240519_104030.jpg
    IMG_20240519_104030.jpg
    43.9 KB · Views: 1
I’m no help- can’t see those on the phone. I click the thumbnail and it makes a big border and the picture stays the same with the jpeg image number over the bottom half.
 
I’m no help- can’t see those on the phone. I click the thumbnail and it makes a big border and the picture stays the same with the jpeg image number over the bottom half.
Thanks for looking.

We're running it as is and disconnecting the battery when we park it.

It wasn't going dead before. But it was dead today.

Maybe the battery was just better before.

I'm going to have to trace every wire once we get more mowers running
 
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