Any help would be awesome. I recently got a 82 c10 for my son and we had to replace the wiring for the truck with a new harness but no kit comes with the stuff for the glow plugs, injection pump etc. does anyone have a diagram or know where to get one. There is a harness that goes to pump and I did replace the power wire but I don’t think I am getting fuel to injectors. I pulled one fuel line and nothing but am getting drips from return line.
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Wiring diagram for 82 c10 diesel.
- Thread starter Jason@1
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Welcome Jason. I’m no good at finding info online & have no old books on these anymore outside my hummer manual- and it’s definitely different.
back in the days at the dealership & fleet- there never was a single kit for the harnesses. Glow plug harness is separate- a really good one is a available from a guy that used to frequent this site- afaik still makes & sells them on ebay.
Unfortunately I am drawing a blank on his name- need some help here guys for our ex-nascar wire guy’s name please.
The glow plug wires from solenoid/relay to the plugs is the same on 6.2 & 6.5. The harness that feeds to it is different. Outside of his plug harness the other thing guys do is buy the NOS military one for hmmwvs, but the end is different. Instead of cutting the end and crimping on a new one, there is a plug in adapter that Eric found. If you go that route, hollar and we can find out where tk get the adapters.
A HUGE ENGINE SAVING/KILLING WARNING. ONLY get AC Delco 60G glow plugs. They are self limiting so they don’t swell & break off. They don’t heat as fast as some other brands so you cycle the key an extra time or someguys add a switch to activate the solenoid/relay.
As for not getting the fuel to the injectors- as diagnostics- are you aware which terminal is your fso (fuel shutoff solenoid)? It’s on the front left of the ip (injection pump). in all the later models it was a pink wire & might have been pink in yours (but I can’t remember). See the video
back in the days at the dealership & fleet- there never was a single kit for the harnesses. Glow plug harness is separate- a really good one is a available from a guy that used to frequent this site- afaik still makes & sells them on ebay.
Unfortunately I am drawing a blank on his name- need some help here guys for our ex-nascar wire guy’s name please.
The glow plug wires from solenoid/relay to the plugs is the same on 6.2 & 6.5. The harness that feeds to it is different. Outside of his plug harness the other thing guys do is buy the NOS military one for hmmwvs, but the end is different. Instead of cutting the end and crimping on a new one, there is a plug in adapter that Eric found. If you go that route, hollar and we can find out where tk get the adapters.
A HUGE ENGINE SAVING/KILLING WARNING. ONLY get AC Delco 60G glow plugs. They are self limiting so they don’t swell & break off. They don’t heat as fast as some other brands so you cycle the key an extra time or someguys add a switch to activate the solenoid/relay.
As for not getting the fuel to the injectors- as diagnostics- are you aware which terminal is your fso (fuel shutoff solenoid)? It’s on the front left of the ip (injection pump). in all the later models it was a pink wire & might have been pink in yours (but I can’t remember). See the video
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I hit post on accident.
Anyways- if you run power from the battery to that pink wore terminal , that is same as having key on. By putting power there and cranking engine over- you should get fuel to the injectors.
If you are replacing glow plugs- remove the old ones, then send poser to the terminal and crank the engine. You will get a mist of fuel out each glowplug hole and the engine will crank must faster because no plugs in making it far easier to bleed the air out of the system and for diagnostic.
If you attempt removing a plug and it doesn’t slide out, it is probably swollen. STOP. Screw it back in place by hand and buy a glowplug removal tool. Using the tool it comes out easy without breaking it. If you break it off it can be a tremendous nightmare. Ignore morons online who say just break it of and stsrt engine. I can show you destroyed pistons from it, as could others.
I will go dig around and try finding any old books I might have- but pretty sure they all are gone. Haynes and better yet Chilton used to make good books for these rigs. Going to a dealership and checking parts counter- they won’t have many parts anymore but might still have it on film you could take pics of if you have to diy a harness. I also wonder if places like LMC Truck might have it.
Oh, in that video- you’ll notice the black rubber fuel hoee was replaced with clear tube. That is for diagnostics. We all suggest replacing that piece with clear all the time. You should never see any air going through the clear line- the truck in that video was struggling to run at all. The line is 1/4” diameter. Fuel-line.com sells clear fuel line that is rated for the junk ethanol in our diesel fuel now.
Let us know what ya come up with. There’s a ton more info we can share to keeping the rig running.
Two warnings to start with:
Engine heat is #1 killer
Engine temps 200 is ok, 210 watch the gauge more than the road,220 pull over and let it idle back to normal.
#2 killer
Harmonic balancer fails, cracks block- break crankshaft. There is two metal disks separated by a rubber piece. When the rubber cracks, swells, etc Replace the balancer. The outer ring can shift when the rubber is bad and will destroy the engine. In the fleet we learned AC Delco is best replaced at 100,000 mile intervals. The aftermarket ones can fail as soon as 30,000 miles so 1/2 price on day one is more expensive long term. Rent a puller/install tool or buy the $30 one with the thrust bearing Hink sells - don’t hammer the new one on or use stock bolt to pull it on.
Anyways- if you run power from the battery to that pink wore terminal , that is same as having key on. By putting power there and cranking engine over- you should get fuel to the injectors.
If you are replacing glow plugs- remove the old ones, then send poser to the terminal and crank the engine. You will get a mist of fuel out each glowplug hole and the engine will crank must faster because no plugs in making it far easier to bleed the air out of the system and for diagnostic.
If you attempt removing a plug and it doesn’t slide out, it is probably swollen. STOP. Screw it back in place by hand and buy a glowplug removal tool. Using the tool it comes out easy without breaking it. If you break it off it can be a tremendous nightmare. Ignore morons online who say just break it of and stsrt engine. I can show you destroyed pistons from it, as could others.
I will go dig around and try finding any old books I might have- but pretty sure they all are gone. Haynes and better yet Chilton used to make good books for these rigs. Going to a dealership and checking parts counter- they won’t have many parts anymore but might still have it on film you could take pics of if you have to diy a harness. I also wonder if places like LMC Truck might have it.
Oh, in that video- you’ll notice the black rubber fuel hoee was replaced with clear tube. That is for diagnostics. We all suggest replacing that piece with clear all the time. You should never see any air going through the clear line- the truck in that video was struggling to run at all. The line is 1/4” diameter. Fuel-line.com sells clear fuel line that is rated for the junk ethanol in our diesel fuel now.
Let us know what ya come up with. There’s a ton more info we can share to keeping the rig running.
Two warnings to start with:
Engine heat is #1 killer
Engine temps 200 is ok, 210 watch the gauge more than the road,220 pull over and let it idle back to normal.
#2 killer
Harmonic balancer fails, cracks block- break crankshaft. There is two metal disks separated by a rubber piece. When the rubber cracks, swells, etc Replace the balancer. The outer ring can shift when the rubber is bad and will destroy the engine. In the fleet we learned AC Delco is best replaced at 100,000 mile intervals. The aftermarket ones can fail as soon as 30,000 miles so 1/2 price on day one is more expensive long term. Rent a puller/install tool or buy the $30 one with the thrust bearing Hink sells - don’t hammer the new one on or use stock bolt to pull it on.