So Iv'e seen different numbers. Originally I thought. 7Lbs. max. But now I have seen 14PSI Max? I forgot to ask the Kid at the Chevrolet Dealership parts counter who has never touched a Wrench what that might be. Also at full throttle how much pressure?
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What Lift Pump Pressure is for 98&94 6.5
- Thread starter daveob
- Start date
JMJNet
Recruit
3-4 psi steady after the FFM.
In a lot of cases, the pressure dip down to 0 that is why steady is also important.
In a lot of cases, the pressure dip down to 0 that is why steady is also important.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
8-14 psi for the ds4 is what they taught when I went.
Higher pressure at idle and lower pressure at full throttle is expected.
Below 8 the pump still works, just lacks a little performance all the way down to 2psi. From 0-2 psi the pump is experiencing a descent amount of added wear. When it goes into a vacuum and the internal transfer pump is sucking fuel in- it is wearing out the pump amazingly quickly.
The engine will still run, so that a hazard of loss of steering/brakes while driving doesn’t occur. But to the demise of the pumps.
In the fleet we learned the difference of maintaining 8psi all the time made the pump life double.
Higher pressure at idle and lower pressure at full throttle is expected.
Below 8 the pump still works, just lacks a little performance all the way down to 2psi. From 0-2 psi the pump is experiencing a descent amount of added wear. When it goes into a vacuum and the internal transfer pump is sucking fuel in- it is wearing out the pump amazingly quickly.
The engine will still run, so that a hazard of loss of steering/brakes while driving doesn’t occur. But to the demise of the pumps.
In the fleet we learned the difference of maintaining 8psi all the time made the pump life double.
JMJNet
Recruit
Get a better LP.
8-14 psi is the spec of the LP at the LP but it usually don't get that high after FFM before IP.
There is loss of pressure at every point of the flow.
That is the nature of fluid flow.
Excellant Answer
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The best thing to do is get a metal “T” stainless preferred, in between the ip and the connection for the rubber hose. The T is the source for permanent fuel pressure gauge sending unit. Mount the gauge where you can see it while you drive.
To save you some time- going to a Fass or Airdogg is the best bet. You need to regulate the pressure down to 14 max, but their ability to to remove the aeration and more importantly stop all the water is huge. When our factory ffm was created we had real crude oil supplied fuel. Now it is alcohol infused which absorbs water and that tears the heck out of everything.
Anytime you see the wif light come on- immediately drain the filter housing, and that night at home drop in a new filter. Do the fuel gauge first, add the lift pump and better filter asap. If you can afford it all at once- great. Do that.
Unitl you can afford the better lift pump, the best factory style one is the AC Delco EP158.
To save you some time- going to a Fass or Airdogg is the best bet. You need to regulate the pressure down to 14 max, but their ability to to remove the aeration and more importantly stop all the water is huge. When our factory ffm was created we had real crude oil supplied fuel. Now it is alcohol infused which absorbs water and that tears the heck out of everything.
Anytime you see the wif light come on- immediately drain the filter housing, and that night at home drop in a new filter. Do the fuel gauge first, add the lift pump and better filter asap. If you can afford it all at once- great. Do that.
Unitl you can afford the better lift pump, the best factory style one is the AC Delco EP158.