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What is the most effective and safest way to turn the Turbo Charger off?

Drago

Drago

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I don't think I need it, I run empty most of the time and with a 4:10 rear it gets out of the intersection just fine. The NA 6.5 seem to last a lot longer which is more important for me. I was thinking of unplugging the waste gate controller.
 
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I'd think a turbo master or copy set very lightly so as to only make around maybe 3psi??? boost max. Then don't put your foot into it. I think you still want a little drive pressure as not to restrict the intake with the compressor.

I think the factory tune and controls drops to minimum boost when under light throttle around 1800-2000 rpm.
 
I have a homemade tm, and was thinking of mounting an old fuel shut off solenoid from a cummins that's good. With no power function like normal, flip a switch and it opens the wastegate all the way. Thinking a small jack chain to connect so there is no physical load on arm.

Don't know when I can get to it, feels like 32nd of neveruary.
 
If you stop the turbo from boosting I would think you would get lots of unwanted black smoke.

Maybe a better flowing then stock turbo to decrease boost and drive pressure?
 
Oh, forgot to say as far as n/a lasting longer- no I will disagree. I have owned 1 n/a 6.2 , a n/a 6.5 , and 2 6.5td. N/a does not last longer, unless you baby the crap out of it. If you accept the low level of performance in acceration and lack of speed capability going up hills or in traffic- just limit yourself to half throttle of EVERYTHING you do now and you will have it. The high boost pressure hurts only because your foot is in it. You will not get high egt if you put a brick under the throttle. Low egt=low ect and longer life.

In the fleets turbos always outlasted n/a because drivers beat it harder trying to get places quicker.

If a weaker engine made it last longer 4cylinders would be better in pickups. Stronger torque engines usually last longer because you can handle the work load demanded at a lower % of a available power there by babying the engine more.

I think on a flat road, no tow, highway speed cruise control situation, then cutting restriction of exhaust flow of turbo could help. Out of interest, and because I have the solenoid sitting on a shelf, I will try it just to see. Seriously a proper sized turbo with matching tune and your ds4 has best option for fuel efficency AND longer life. But more experimenting is always good if low risk of damage.
 
Will L. said:
N/a does not last longer, unless you baby the crap out of it. If you accept the low level of performance in acceration and lack of speed capability going up hills or in traffic- just limit yourself to half throttle of EVERYTHING you do now and you will have it.
Click to expand...

Kind of along the lines that I was thinking.

Using Mercedes as an example, seems like the best way to get longer life is to derate the 6.5's power to effectively get the better 'build strength' to power ratio (per the original question's intent). And also using Mercedes as an example in terms of a turbo's effect on power delivery, without a turbo the engine is fairly gutless.

In sticking with the idea of modifying the wastegate to keep psi's low, as noted by others, this will likely mess with the fuel curves on a DS4 and require playing around with a new tune to keep the mixture from running rich.

Not convinced that NA is the best solution given I have read a few examples where adding a turbo and turning up fuel in the DB2 on a 6.2 resulted in better mileage.

My vote to get to the original goal of extending the 6.5's service life is to go after tuning and make sure it has the most efficient programming to compliment the hard components.
 
When I added the turbo to my hummer, I wrote something that could be misleading. I REALLY need a sarcasm font. 10.4 mpg before and after the turbo amazingly the same, but I get from point a to b quicker is the jist of what I wrote.

Reality is I turned up my db2 1/2 turn or a hair more, maybe 200 degrees. I replaced my factory n/a injectors with factory turbo set injectors. I yanked the timing over a bit more than the dimes width recommendation. I put it in gear and go wot from the start until speed limit is reached, everywhere, all the time. I accelerate much faster now. If I were to accelerate at the slower speed I used to my mileage would go up, period.

I think I will burn through a couple tanks of fuel before adding the 4" exhaust and drive at speeds I used to for a fair comparison just so others can see difference in results. I will find the thread I started and update the info on that one. Probably be a month or so for results.
 
I agree with a lot of the above. Also, it "seems fine" till you remove all boost, and realize what a dog it is. Even at a little throttle you're using boost on a TD.
 
I think some of the earlier 6.2's and 6.5's were naturally aspirated (Non-turbo'd). Less power, but were good on fuel mileage.
 
IMO the factory vaccum controlled wastegate is the best solution for MPG on the factory turboed units. I soft pedaled my 99 chassis cab weighing 8500 lbs to 18.5 mpg across wyoming one trip.
 
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