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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Big T said:
Fixed the one left turn signal bulb:
View attachment 82702
Didn’t want someone to nag me with a honey do list. Enjoying single life here for a week while my wife is in Austin area of Texas, undoubtedly broiling.
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It's a dry heat they say! we start out in the dehydrator in the morning then after lunch the convection oven kicks in to high gear.
 
Well got home from work this afternoon, pulled the truck into the back driveway and up on the ramps. I had the "too small" gear box out and the other one installed rather quickly! I even did some R & R on the pressure hoses as I had noticed even with swapping out the boxes I still had what sounded like a slight wine coming from the pump as if it was getting air.

I remember I think it was Will who said before that it might have been sucking air from somewhere. since I didn't have any new hoses on hand I decided to put back the hydraulic hoses and fittings I had made for it a good while back when I was trying to rule out my pump on another steering issue. I don't care for how it looks with but I went for it just to rule out anything with the hoses.

got the fluid in and full, it took almost 2 quarts this time around. Backed it off the ramps and steered the wheel back and fourth sitting in the driveway.... WOW what a difference! it steers like butter with no noise or pop sounds. No creaking ether! I have not taken it out for a drive yet.

While I have the truck in the back, I plan to replace the lower radiator hose and fan controller in the morning. I already have the new fan controller dialed in to turn on at 200+/- degrees with the help of my son, we pre-set the temp on it with a pot of water on the stove so I'm not having to monkey with it too much once I get it all wired up tomorrow. :D

Here are some pics on the Hydraulic hose routing, I'm not liking it too much but this will do for now. I had used this setup back when I was testing pressures and flow from the pump and throughout the system, I just left out my other fitting that allowed me to use a gauge. when I pulled the OEM hoses off I could see where both were apparently seeping fluid around the rubber, time for them to go.


Steering Hoses.jpgSteering Hoses 1.jpgSteering Hoses 2.jpg
 
2014 4Runner with 336K miles had a leaking input seal on the transfer case. So I pulled the transfer case. There was almost a quart of oil between the transfer case and transmission. I have the input seal and rear housing seal, but saw the transmission seal and might as well replace that while I’m in there. That seal will arrive at the dealer on Tuesday. So this project will get delayed a bit.
IMG_4649.jpegIMG_4650.jpegIMG_4651.jpegIMG_4653.jpegIMG_4654.jpeg
 
The way the two housings mate almost makes me think there was no need for seals on the shaft! just a gasket to join the two and have the extra fluid capacity for both units! LOL
 
dbrannon79 said:
The way the two housings mate almost makes me think there was no need for seals on the shaft! just a gasket to join the two and have the extra fluid capacity for both units! LOL
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Unlike my K2500 Suburbans that use ATF in the transfer case and transmission, the 4Runner uses 75w90 synthetic in the transfer case and synthetic ATF in the transmission.
 
Wired up the new controller, relocated it to the captains side firewall next to the other two relays I have there for the lift pump and headlights. picked up some loom from Home Depot and cleaned up all the loose wires running across the firewall. even loomed up some of the other wiring to the AC compressor and various items making it all look much better.

I have the temp probe threaded into the thermostat housing this time and I can't seem to get the on-off cycle dialed in. once it turns on at about 198 degrees it won't ever shut off. But if I adjust the temp setting slightly higher, using my temp gun on the crossover below the t-stat, I see temps up to 210 before it turns on!! I am thinking above the t-stat where the bleeder was is the wrong place to have the probe at. I am pondering taking one of the block off plates from the back of the head and tapping a hole for this temp probe. the funny thing is when I use the temp gun at the block off plates, they are showing 185 or so when the lower part of the crossover is showing 195+. I might need to drill and tap into the crossover housing for the probe.
 
Husker6.5 said:
@dbrannon79 no, above the t-stat in its housing not a good location. Is there anything in the passenger head rear sensor port? If not, use that. If there is, yeah, tapping the passenger rear block off plate is a very good option.
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I used the port on the passengers head for the temp gauge. not sure if there is any other water ports on the heads. I have that 6.2 on the stand I can rob one of the block off plates and thread a port on it. not sure if the plate alone is thick enough to tap threads into though. I might have to take it to work and have a bung welded into the center.

what surprised me was the temp difference from the front to the rear where that plate is. using my temp gun it was hotter at the base of the crossover than at those plate on the back of the passenger head. it was also hotter on the drivers side base of the crossover than the passenger side as if more flow was happening on the passenger side than the drivers. maybe after dumping the watered down coolant to replace the lower hose and refilling with fresh coolant borked my thermostat, again! seems like every time I do anything to the cooling system that causes the water level to go below the thermostat I end up having to replace it too.

I have a 195 deg one installed from last winter, the 180 one wasn't getting me enough heat in the cab. I always thought there were only two options for this rig, 180 and 195, but RA shows a 190 GM one but not sure if it's for the dual stat setup or the single like mine. It looks a little different than the one I have been getting. here is a link to the 190 and the 195 I have installed.



EDIT: the measurments on the two are completely different. diameter and height. so I don't think the GM one will work for my rig.
 
No need to weld a bung on, that block off plate is plenty thick to NPT tap it and get enough threads to hold the probe securely. Remeber, the only torque is going to be just a few lb/ft of torque on the probe to wedge it into the tapered thread, there is no "holding" like with a fastener. Don't forget to use either Teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads to prevent any leakage.
 
I will attempt drilling and tapping it Sunday. Don't have a gasket but silicone should do the trick to seal it back on. I will have to save on the coolant since I just filled it with fresh antifreeze.
 
J_dude said:
Should really do some reading over on HID Planet forums before you go dropping those bulbs in halogen housings. You are actually blinding everyone else on the road with that setup and real projectors will give much better light output for you too.
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Bro they’re fine. Best lights I’ve ever had. No one is giving me the Hi beams when I’m driving. If I wanted people telling how I should live my life, I’d stay in California. Wait….
 
Big T said:
Bro they’re fine. Best lights I’ve ever had. No one is giving me the Hi beams when I’m driving. If I wanted people telling how I should live my life, I’d stay in California. Wait….
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BTW they are specifically not the halogen housings. Halogen housings have ribbing in the lens which scatters the light. These are euro clear lenses. The Lo beams have a cup over the bulb so they don’t burn the eyes of oncoming traffic. These were the housing style and lenses recommended by people here for HID lights.
 
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