What brand of tire do you run?

[whatnot]

No, just the regular before. They claim you get 15% less tread life with it.

 

[12ga diesel]

I just ordered my second set of them today. (got 285/70/17 with Kedge grip this time)
When I ordered last time they didn't have E rated so I have D's on my truck right now.

They lasted about the same as anything else. (which isn't long for me )

The ones I would get do come in an E rated. I don't think I would put anything less on a 1 ton truck.

How are you guys seeing the front tires holding up being that those are the wheels that are making turns and get the most abuse (other than your rear tires it sounds like Robert)? :hihi:

 

[whatnot]

My rear tires get the most abuse.:hihi:
Fronts were doing fine till they moved to the back.

 

[Bernie]

The ones I would get do come in an E rated. I don't think I would put anything less on a 1 ton truck.

How are you guys seeing the front tires holding up being that those are the wheels that are making turns and get the most abuse (other than your rear tires it sounds like Robert)? :hihi:

Check your door sticker and see what load range the manufacturer recommends. Not all one tons call for a load range E (though, like you, I prefer them for that little bit extra security)

On my dually with BF Goodrich Commercial T/A Traction tires (load E though GMC only calls for D) I'm getting quite a bit of cupping on the fronts, despite proper balance, inflation, alignment and good Bilstein shocks all around. The alignment shop told me it would probably happen, claiming the tread is too aggressive for the fronts, but I'm finding that regular rotation helps to keep it in check, though I'll probably get reduced treadlife. Since they came with a 60k tread warranty I'm not too worried. I'll probably get 40k out of them and take the pro-rated discount on a new set when they wear out.

 

[trouttrooper]

Don't get too hung up on "D" vs "E". Depending on size of tire some "D" will have a higher weight capacity than an "E" of a different size.

 

[Bernie]

Don't get too hung up on "D" vs "E". Depending on size of tire some "D" will have a higher weight capacity than an "E" of a different size.

Well of course the actual weight capacity of a tire is going to change if you change the size. But if you're staying with the same size tire then load ratings are very relevant.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Wheels also play a role, my k1500 came with 1870# rated rims and C range tires stock, now running 3300# with range Es pressed to 85 psi when moving my backhoe, or 65 psi for general driving

 

[bison]

Depends on what i find at my local dump that has some decent tread left on,sometimes i have 4 diff brands on my truck.
I wouldn't know whats on there now,but i got a toyo as spare in the box

 

[SnowDrift]

Remington Wide Brute

D Range

 

[Pepperidge]

Check your door sticker and see what load range the manufacturer recommends. Not all one tons call for a load range E (though, like you, I prefer them for that little bit extra security)

On my dually with BF Goodrich Commercial T/A Traction tires (load E though GMC only calls for D) I'm getting quite a bit of cupping on the fronts, despite proper balance, inflation, alignment and good Bilstein shocks all around. The alignment shop told me it would probably happen, claiming the tread is too aggressive for the fronts, but I'm finding that regular rotation helps to keep it in check, though I'll probably get reduced treadlife. Since they came with a 60k tread warranty I'm not too worried. I'll probably get 40k out of them and take the pro-rated discount on a new set when they wear out.

If it's not 4x4 why tractions on the front?

you need a good highway ribbed tire...my 96 Dodge Cummins dually 2x4 w/front end in perfect mechanical order, used to eat anything (a/t or a/s) you put on it ...I was changing front tires at every 25k on the front...then I put a set of Michellin XPS Rib on the front and put 65k on them and they still had tread left(at least 15k) on them when I traded it for the Dmax...sometimes you get what you pay for

 

[961500]

Firestone FR tires on my '96 GMC
Uniroyal TigerPaw GTS on my '95 GMC
Kelly-Springfields on my MB

 

[Bernie]

If it's not 4x4 why tractions on the front?

you need a good highway ribbed tire...my 96 Dodge Cummins dually 2x4 w/front end in perfect mechanical order, used to eat anything (a/t or a/s) you put on it ...I was changing front tires at every 25k on the front...then I put a set of Michellin XPS Rib on the front and put 65k on them and they still had tread left(at least 15k) on them when I traded it for the Dmax...sometimes you get what you pay for

A couple of reasons, starting with getting a really good deal on a set of six. The other reasons are:

• Being able to use any wheel in any position (truck has no spare and it makes rotations easier)
• Better directional control in snow/mud (had a set of Wrangler HT's on it that were like skis, no control at all in snow or mud, and very poor even in rain)
• As mentioned above, the truck has no spare. If a rear goes flat, no problem, just limp slowly to a shop. If a front goes, jack it and swap it with a rear then head for a shop to get it fixed. The truck isn't often used at its full load capacity, so a single tire on one side in the rear can handle the weight well enough (especially since I went with E's instead of D's) to get to a shop if I keep the speed down.

 

[Pepperidge]

With my Dodge... once the A/S or A/T's on the front got caked with mud, they were ski's as well having an at on the front didn't help because there was no wheel spin to clean the treads...I was just curious...but in my experience with the tread life of an xps rib...I got more wear and use out them...therefore the extra money spent on a good rib tire paid for itself...