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What Block To Build Off Of?

industrial diesels use 2 diff types of sleeves wet and dry. The wet one I rebuilt had orings that sealed the sleeve from the crankcase. Never been around a dry one. Most automotive engines just bore the original casting to create the cyl
 
I'd use the 506 if there's no cracking evident.

I'd use it over the 141 because it's a seasoned block that shows no signs of cracking (proven good casting) and you would gain the added advantage of oil cooling jets to the piston crowns.

Have it magnafluxed or LPI'd before sinking any money into machining or parts though.

<Fingers crossed for crack free block>

Make sure you check all the usual areas:

1. Cap bolt holes in the main journal webs that don't extend past the depth of the holes (repairable)
2. Cracks in the cap bolt holes that extend into the main webs (terminal)
3. Cracks in the main cap registers (terminal)
4. Radial cracks in the cylinders, most usually prevalent in passenger rear cylinder at the deck (terminal)
5. Head bolt block holes (jury is out if these are repairable or terminal)
6. Starter mounting holes for cracks or broken off (sometimes terminal, sometimes an irritation)
7. Cracking at the oil jets. May radiate into the webs or cylinders (terminal)

Then there's the heads for cracks between the valve seats. If you do end up chucking the heads out, keep the precombustion chambers. They should be "diamond" chambers in a 2000, the most desirable stock ones. The need to be inspected for cracks around the openings into the cylinder.

There may also be concerns with core shift, warped sealing surfaces, decked block, etc, but that can show up in any rebuilder block. The machine shop (or a straight edge) can check these for you though...

Good idea on the Diamond chambers! I have a new set of heads i will be swapping them into for this build. Although nothing was wrong with the ones on the engine. The olny reason i quit driving it a few months ago was becaues i blew a head gasket and said screw it im not going to all that work when it already has 325,000 km on it. Just rebuild the whole thing and be done with it since it was leaking outta the frount main anyways.
 
I watched them sleeve my 428CJ it was pretty interesting. They bored out the cylinder to the right spec and took the sleeve and put it in a bucket of dry ice filled was gasoline to shrink it and when they put it in it was a one shot deal. if you didn't get it in right you had to bore it out again
 
AMG likely did, although may have been from older cast that they bought from GM, before making the Optimiser, but likely better metalurgy and machining work than GM would have done.
 
I found an interesting article regarding defective blocks how acturate the info is I don't know. But from what it states is AMG took over the new castings in 2000. If that's true who would
Have built mine in march of 2001?

http://flashoffroad.com/Diesel/No8Cyl/CrackedBlock.htm

if your block does not have the navistar triangle in the valley, its not a newer block... GEP took over the production in november 2001 and not before...... so it is likely an old stock block.....
 
So this block was cast 7 months before amg took over then. Hmm well as buddy said it should Still have better machining over the 141.
 
So this block was cast 7 months before amg took over then. Hmm well as buddy said it should Still have better machining over the 141.

you might be good to check with rangerrix.com , he has someone in alberta that is selling his motors straight out of the military..... pretty cheap for motors turned 360degrees, but not ran..... around 750.00 i believe....
 
Yup definatly blew the head gaskets. The frount passengers side and the rear drivers were both gone. Now to take the bottem end apart havent seen any cracks so far.

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Well i found one crack for F**K sakes. Think lock n stitch would hold it together okay? Or is she a junk block.... Also so photos of my warn out harmonic ballencer

cracked506008.jpg


cracked506005.jpg


cracked506001.jpg


cracked506002.jpg


cracked506003.jpg
 
Not sure but IMO it could hold with lock stitch. I'm no expert but it looks like it might be small enough to salvage, I would do all the others too just for good measure since it proves to be crack prone.
 
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