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Waste Gate Question

T

tymetraveler

New Member
Messages
6
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3
Location
ALBANY,NY
This week. My truck that has a Electronic Turbo Actuator aka waste gate controller seems to be not building any boost. It started with a p0107 and po108 OBD code and now has a P0299 code. The P0107 and 108 codes were a loose connector that i tightened up. But now still no boost and the actuator is not moving. I was wondering IF i were to WIRE the waste gate closed on this would any damage happen? Right now I cant get over 3k RPM or over 60 MPH the way it is.. there is NO boost. Thanks in advance..

PS I do not have a boost gauge.
 
Welcome to the forum TT.
What year truck do you have ?
Use a vacuum gauge and see if the vacuum pump is functional. Check for broken vacuum tubes or cracked hoses.
Then check to see if there is vacuum at the boost control solenoid.
It might also be the waste gate actuator has a hole in it, allowing vacuum to escape.
 
You need to check to see if your vacuum pump is working first. Should have around 20" at idle. If that checks out then unplug the vacuum line at the selenoid on the back driver's side of the engine and see if it's the same there. If that checks out connect the 2 vacuum lines together that go to the selenoid and check vacuum at the turbo. Vacuum lines are a common failure point. If you have a good steady vacuum there, you shouldn't be able to move the wastegate arm easily, then the selenoid would be the issue.
 
1st THANK YOU for all the welcomes.. I really do appreciate it..
The Truck .. Well I call it my truck as I work in it all day is a 2006 Dodge Sprinter Van 2500.
Diesel 5 Cyl engine. SADLY it has a Electronic turbo actuator and no vacuum lines that go to the actuator.
not sure where the vac lines are or if there are even any. Electronics muck everything up these days
so I was going to either take the linkage off the actuator and put the wast gate in the CLOSED position
and run it that way.. Then I wont get the UNDERBOOST error as i am sure I will have plenty of that
from that point (Maybe) or.. if someone can help me convert this to a vacuum setup that would be
even better. Thanks again everyone.. This forum is been great so far.. Look forward to all your replies.
 
A ton of us here have the 6.5 chevy, that was a default response thinking that's what you have. Fill out your signature with it and you other rides so when you are asking we see what we are talking about.

Check for voltage you get while idle, driving under acceleration, etc before wiring it. I don't have access to specs for that rig, hopefully someone else here does. Even with no spec, if you get a fairly linear movement in power relative to what turbo should be doing- that could point to a bad solenoid. Not sure if any would be available in junkyards as a tester or not, but depending on price of a new one it might be worth $10 if one is in your area.

If you wire it shut, with no boost gauge just be careful with it. You should max boost out, and it will restrict exhaust flow too, so it wont feel normal. mpg will drop horribly, but for diagnosing- so what. remember when shut your electric will not call to operate it normal- so more codes likely to pop up when you do.
 
Well, with the new information.
I would start by cleaning every terminal that deals with the boost control actuator.
There must be some kind of a motor style actuator on this rig nd if cleaning and tightening some terminals helped to relieve some codes then it might also be the case with the motor driven actuator.
 
You can't override the ECM and not expect BAD THINGS TO HAPPEN! Grenade the turbo from over speed and then the expensive hot oily parts start to add up to an awesome scrap metal carnage thread. Make sure to get video for youtube! The ECM is limping the engine now to protect it as it is. Your cheapest long term option is to properly fix it.

Check for boost leaks like an intercooler hose blown off or split. Otherwise other more specific forums really have this vehicle covered better. Like: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12972
 
Has anyone converted a unit like this to a Vacume style blow off or is there some way to BYPASS the controller without the potential risk of blowing the turbo or head gasket?
 
Why so expensive to convert? Would that not just be a vac controller and vac line to the manifold ??
I was thinking $150 $200?? but I guess i was wrong.. Was just looking for a CRUDE way to fix this
if it is the Turbo Actuator that is not sold without the whole $2000 turbo.
 
:facepalm: You may have a simple boot blown off the intercooler or split hose, yet, you have magically condemned a $2000 Turbo.

Again a quick DIY is best served on above Sprinter forums as this appears to be a common problem (with many answers already posted) to an otherwise reliable although boring platform. ;) You get interesting points here for a diesel van over a gas engine.
 
The Turbos for these are very expensive. Sadly. Yea no one ever answers questions on the SPRINTER van forums for some reason. I will check the hoses and get back to everyone here..
 
I take for granted that you are "new". Perhaps you overlooked the click on link I provided that is a in depth listing of common things one person checked on their Sprinter. Yes, forums are hit and miss. However I suggest running through the ideas on the following two links. If that doesn't get you anywhere I suggest you take it to a reputable repair shop that specializes in Sprinter vans: may or may not be a dealer. A work vehicle that's not running right is costing you money and putting off repairs can make the repair more expensive from further damage. Do not neglect the simple stuff like a clogged air filter. I have had mice eat a new air filter and do and additional $800 damage to wiring... The engine shut down when air filter debris jammed the electric throttle. :wideyed:

Links: Clicky!

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12972

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7538
 
Well I took your advice and took the van to the repair shop yesterday. I got a call that it was DONE today and went to pick it up. I was told that the VEINS in the turbo were sticking and that there was NOTHING they could do to keep this from happening except replace the turbo. I think that replacing the whole turbo is just another one of these NEW age mechanics that do not like to rebuild anything but rather be what I like to call PLUG AND PLAY mechanics. Cost me $200 for that diagnosis. I started to SPRAY down the linkage that goes into the turbo to the veins tonight in hopes that some of the PB BLASTER would make its way into the VEINS and loosen them up. I guess ill just keep hosing it down and try to find some info on taking that part apart to get in there and FREE up the veins. Anyone know anything about Garret turbos?
 
Dont bother with the pb blaster- it is not rusted and stuck.

Remove the tubing going to the turbo until you can get your fingers on the veins. You should be able to put your thumb and finger on there and spin it like a top. Also wiggle and see if there is freeplay. And it should never move, only spin freely.

If you cannot spin it= toast. Post a youtube video of trying it and a link here if needed.
Chances are, their diagnostics is correct.

If there is an oil line feeding the turbo, remove it and put into container. Have someone start engine so you can watch for oil flow coming out hose- no oil will wipe out new turbo. If oil is block fed (no oil hose) Pull the turbo out, make sure nothing can fall into openings. Remove turbo and check for flow after making sure there is no way oil can get into intake port or you will destroy the engine. Certain engines have to install a custom made attachment to bolt on and direct oil away. Start it to watch for oil flow.
In either case do not run engine long enough to pump out more that 1 quart.

Now stuff clean towel in place both side to keep it perfectly clean both incoming and outgoing air. Same for incoming exhaust. All MUST stay clean. Sandwich bag and zip tie works well for oil line.

Again, a video of the turbo out and you demonstrate what moves and what is stuck can help here. Or if you have turbo rebuild shops in your area. Hotrod shops are a good source for this.

IF, and that is a big if, the turbo can be redone with a new cartridge, that will save you some cash. A siezed center often means the whole thing is scrap metal.

Start out with part numbers and price from the place you took the truck to before calling turbo shops.
Post the part number and price here. Should be a id plate on the turbo
 
Vgt turbos commonly encounter sticking veins. Being you have a true electric controlled vgt, you either have one sooted up severely, or a problem with the veins themselves in which case you need a shop with the tools and access to parts, hence the price tag of a rebuilt turbo. You're not dealing with a flapper in the exhaust of the turbo to vent off pressure and control boost that way. You're dealing with a complex actuator, a ri,g that converts one motion to another, and a series of angled veins that direct hot exhaust gasses at the exhaust turbine to vary boost all operating in a hostile hot enviroment. So it's not that he's a plug and play parts changer, he may simply not have access to the stuff to work on it like 99% of the shops out there don't have access to it. You have an expensive, intriquite, Mercedes diesel engine that not many here state side have experience with, let alone parts and tooling to work on. So parts can be expensive for them.
 
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