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Waiting on a tow trying to figure codes

Badaxe

Badaxe

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SDrove to town for some P/T it decided to run away a bit,was on highway so didn't mind.Finished appointment and won't start. Tried what I could with what I have to no avail. Got tow coverage so we'll see what a 25 mile tow costs these days. Anyhow decided to pull codes while waiting ; DTC 31 35 36 57 62 & 83. It's cranking but not starting. Guessing IP. Thoughts?
''
 
DTC 31 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit Low (High Vacuum)
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)
DTC 57 - PCM 5 Volt Shorted
DTC 62 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit Low
DTC 83 - Torque Converter Clutch
 
New batteries went in two days ago and might have a slow drain somewhere. It fire up 7:30AM without hesitation to take kid to school, noticed volts stayed over 14, then hopped in to go somewhere and would crank but no fire at 9AM. Definitely acted like bad PMD. 11:15AM checked grounds, all tight, plugged in spare PMD and eventually started so i plugged in mounted PMD and it fired and ran great for about an hour. Dropped other kid off at school. Started right back up and headed to P/T. Watched charging system(via fancy stereo feature) on second trip(s) and it stayed between 12.8 and 13.2 for the 30 mile trip. And you know the rest.
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
DTC 31 - EGR Control Pressure/Baro Sensor Circuit Low (High Vacuum)
DTC 35 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Short)
DTC 36 - Injection Pulse Width Error (Time Long)
DTC 57 - PCM 5 Volt Shorted
DTC 62 - Turbo Boost Sensor Circuit Low
DTC 83 - Torque Converter Clutch
Click to expand...

DTC 57 - PCM 5 Volt Shorted

GAME OVER!!!

Best I can tell this is a shared 5 volt regulator. So everything that needs 5 volts is not working. Start here with this code as everything else is coding because of this short.

So start unplugging things listed one at a time, clear the codes, and re-read the codes until you find the item that is setting the DTC 57. It may be a shorted wire. Wiggle test is last. If you are lucky it is a shorted PMD. Sure you will add codes of unplugged stuff - but the goal is to get code 57 to clear and stay cleared. Then worry about the rest after plugging stuff back in, fixed short, and cleared codes. The glow plug controller harness fell apart on mine and stalled me out one day...
 
My glow plugs have been doing a full cycle warm up at every start, even when it's 80* out, for the past few days. Is this good or bad? My mental plate has been way too full to deal with this and I can't touch it until tomorrow. Obama is coming to town today and we are on stand-by at the airport in case of a chopper mishap.

It was running great after FTB and injectors, and then batteries and this recently.... while the wife is supportive of "my project" she is not a fan of the truck itself. So trade in value becomes the knee jerk topic.
 
Well, my first thought would be the Baro or boost sensor wiring is shorted to ground, or sensors are. They get the same 5V source from the PCM and youre getting the codes for those items. It also shares the 5V rail with the CPS.

Relavent pins
Baro Sensor
A - ground
C - 5V reference to PCM PC10

Boost Sensor
A - ground
C - 5V reference to PCM PC10

With a multimeter you can check to make sure the sensors are not shorted internally.

Then you can unplug the large 32-pin pink PCM connector and go check that the sensor harness 5V source are not shorted to the ground wires or to the engine ground.
 
18 years old, over 100K, diesel. Rare diesel. It is going to need TLC. Even new cars can be a lemon. Tow coverage is smart.

Bottom line is pay the parts store or pay the bank for an auto loan.

Post it up here first if you want to sell it. Vultures can circle quick... :hihi:

Otherwise there is a lot of experience here to help your project stay running. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks Guys. That's why I come here first(using phone while waiting for tow) to get leads and support from the great knowledge base that makes this a great site. Didn't realize it would still throw codes when not running.
 
Batteries test good, alternator tests good, grounds are solid, started earlier with a jump(charger sux and batteries were down after numerous attempts prior to tow) drove around only code to popo was the usual 36, shut it down and back to status quo crank no start. AARRRGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!#&*$U#$#^&!
 
36 is a common one that happens a lot?

If so then you either have a bad PMD or IP on its way out. Have you been using fuel lubrication each fillup?

The other codes may come back though and the no start could still be some sort of short somewhere. Especially if you are getting really long glow cycles, points to some sort of electical issue.
 
36 was showing up before FTB and new injectors, and someone advised for me to pass on installing the rebuilt IP I have to see if 36 went away. It did for a week or two but is back just as regular as before. Power Service and ND30/or 2-cycle go in every tank. I'm half tempted to get "Raceday's" wiring set so is new and solid without a doubt, however if that doesn't fix the problem then, while its money well invested, there is no more money for what else it might be.
 
Well those other codes didnt show up coincidentally, so you must have an issue somewhere, and it could be at a certain pedal amount or sometimes the APP shorts out an not others. That and with the 36, either a PMD or IP is going soon.
 
I found a broken ground strap and fixed it. It made a better effort to start this time, but still not happening. 36 is"gone" because I cleared it and it wont start. That's one way to get rid of it yet it leaves me without transportation. I've got a spare APP and IP, but limited time. Don't want to rush an IP swap because it would be my first and as of now a rental might be the only way to make early appointments on Friday.

There is visible fuel in the lines and no air. On the last start attempt there was a notable suction sound, like a dry sump, would this be IP?
 
New IP in and still no "spark". LP working and air out of the system. At a loss. New batterycable kit should be in soon, and while it will be a welcome addition I get the feeling it wont solve problem. What wires do I need to check on the PCM?
 
I would would not have guessed an IP as this issue since it began with those new codes. I assume that with a new IP a new PMD was tried, and you swapped the APP too.

Do you get any of the codes still, any new ones? How long is your glow cycle when you first turn the ignition on? Do you have access to a scanner?

There are some no-start diagnostics in the attached list with some injection relevant PCM and PMD wires pointed out. That would tell you if the IP is even getting an inject signal. If the 5V rail is shorted it would not, because the CPS and OS wouldn't be working. You can check with the ignition on that there is 5V at the OS and CPS harness. CPS socket C, OS socket A. ECT sensor socket A, IAT socket A. Check the voltage on those harness sockets with the key on and the sensor unplugged.
 

Attachments

Great info Buddy. The battery cable kit just arrived so when it goes in I'll run through the list. That being said, worst case scenario, how do I track down a PCM that will work for my truck? Will any OBD-1 for a 6.5 work?
 
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