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Update ! on the 6.5er. . .

M123KT-450

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I replaced the lift pump fuel filter treated the fuel for water replaced my PMD with a #9R and its running out standing.
The power is better then it ever been.

I have started Modding it. . .

Mods:
1. #9 Resister.
2. opened up air intake.
3. upgraded valve cover breather.

Mods left to do:
1. Open up exhaust.
2. 40hp Injectors.
3. Gear Swap.
4. Heath Chip.
5. small lift kit.
6. swap 16's for 19.5's.

Mike

Photos:
 

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Well the Gears n chip will have to be done together and the lift n tires will have to be done together. . .

I am hopping to do them some what close together so i ain't running around long with the short tires and low gears. . .

Mike
 
Nice, glad you finally got it going. It has held true...Once PMD's go bad, they are just bad, even if you can squeeze a few months of life out of them.

I'm glad to see you just put a regular valve cover breather on there. I'm planning the same. And I felt like doing the same with my airbox, smashing it. You might want to put an elbow on the intake, if it gets hot there and youre going to tow something. Just because in that position when it is hot, youll be pulling air right off the radiator and fan.

I have an elbow now but eventually plan to try to swap places with the battery, so the intake is drawing right behind lights.

A bad PMD sure can make these trucks dogs.
 
Will do the air box filter mod was a spur of the moment deal as the old K&N i had was soak in Amsoil SAE60 MOTOR OIL ! stupid breather. . .

Mike
 
Glad to hear some good news outta the ol' 6.5T!

I hear the exhaust really makes her come alive... My long wait will be over shortly to find out for myself...

Did you notice any new oil leaks appear since you ditched the CDR?
 
:thumbsup:And for pete's sake, shop-vac all those leaves outta there and detail up the ol' girl!

Don't forget, Shiny = new!:thumbsup:

Good to see you back with good spirits MIkey! I thought you got booted or something, lol.:thumbsup:
 
The oil consumption has so far stopped all together. . .
I went threw 2qts of SAE60 2qts of lucas and 1.5qts of STP in just a mear 3,400 miles. . .
it hasn't used any oil in 4 day's. Tonight i am changing the oil and its going to get 8 fresh quarts of Amsoil SAE60 synthetic i am going to if the oil stays in the motor now. . .

I did notice the old owner changed his oil every 2,800-3,200 miles all summer with Rotell-T 15w-40 and 1400-1600 miles all winter long with Amsoil 5w-40. . .

I wonder if the sort intervals had somthing to do with the oil consumption ?

Tho the manual states the 6.5-T should get an oil change every 2,500 miles.
I ran some Amsoil 15w-40 when i got the truck but it went threw it so fast i couldn't keep it full ! The SAE60 held up good till around 2,100-2,300 miles then it started drinking up the oil at a fast rate.

I currently have a crank case full of a 50/50 blend of SAE60 Amsoil n Lucas/STP oil stabilizer with 3,400 miles since last oil change so its getting changed tonight ! ! !

See how she dose with fresh oil and the CDR deleted....

Mike
 
Everybody I know who tried to eliminate the CDR (like it was a Gasser) ended up with oil leaks or oil consumption.

There's a reason it's on there... the crankcase on these things needs to maintain negative pressure, and the engine (unlike a gas engine) generates no vacuum.
 
Do you plan on enclosing the air filter in a box with fresh cold air supply?

Another power robber is hot intake air direct from under hood, and as I recall from some of your earlier posts, you were rather disappointed in the power of the 6.5
 
He replaced the CDR to eliminate oil leaks i believe.. He said it has improved. Must of had a fualty CDR that was letting too much through?
 
Before adding injectors add chip, they won't do anything until the PCM asks for extra fuel, how many miles on the IP?, To get max performance you'll also want a h/o lift & open the inlet to IP, what gears you planning to swap to?
 
Matt Bachand said:
He replaced the CDR to eliminate oil leaks i believe.. He said it has improved. Must of had a fualty CDR that was letting too much through?

That could well be - a faulty CDR is worse than no CDR, but it ain't as good as a Ficed CDR...

Mikey, you also said you have a pile of STP oil stabilizer in there... how bout we wait and see what happens when you get a full load of regular synthetic in the engine before we start debating the effectiveness of the CDR. Just keep it in mind in case your oil consumption goes back up, OK?
 
He replaced the CDR to eliminate oil leaks i believe.. He said it has improved. Must of had a fualty CDR that was letting too much through?

IMO his leaks quit because of the heavy weight oil, which is going to have harder time making it past seals, and why you run motor honey and heavy oil in a tired engine in first place. Not saying his engine is tired, but that is old trick many used car sellers did years ago, top off engine with motor honey blend and smoking rings, bad valve guide seals "cured" at least for a short while.

I'm not so sure this is the wisest thing to do, but to each their own, I'm afraid for him with the way the 6.5 crakcase is designed to flow/vent, over time he'll coke up the inside of the engine. CDR is an essential piece to the 6.5, rather than outright eliminate it, he should test it to see if its working.

Jim & I have seen many as he stated that went without CDR, and regretted it, even had a guy on another forum that swore it upped his Hp, bragging on his chromed breathers, that lasted about 6 months
 
vacuum source for CDR

Has anybody measured what impact a lower restriction air filter has on the level of vacuum the CDR maintains?

Just looking at the stock CDR setup, the restriction the air filter presents creates whatever limited vacuum level the CDR gets from the hose just in front of the turbo compressor.
 
The negative pressure in the crankcase shouldnt be necessary. The CDR or breather is to vent pressure. The CDR is to there keep vacuum at the minimum while burning these vapors in the engine for emissions control.

The breather has a filter on it, so if concerned about dust and dirt entering through it I wouldnt be too concerned, especially since the blow-by and hot oil vapor will keep it pressurized.

People with other problems are sometimes coincidence from trying to run their stuff too hard.

A failed open CDR allows way too much vacuum and sucks the oil out of the valve cover. A failed closed CDR will cause oil leaks because its not allowed to vent pressure so seals open up.
 
I gotta disagree with you there, Buddy... CDR stands for Crankcase Depression Regulator - the function is to maintain a depression, or lower-than-ambient air-pressure region.

I've seen 2 guys replace their cdr with a straight vent, and one with a drop pipe, intending to just vent their crankcase to atmosphere (or in the case of the drop pipe, to let the vapours condense and drip out on the ground), mistakenly believing that the CDR was there purely for emissions purposes.

All three replaced their CDR after a month or two and discovering that they were having issues with leaks and decreasing oil levels.

However, Smithville has a great comment... a badly pluggedair filter (ie: one that has been soaked in SAE60 (gotta wonder where that came from, eh?) would greatly increase the vacuum (remember, a change of 1 psi is probably a change of 100%), and that could indeed cause more of the oil to get sucked up into the turbo.

If I remember correctly, didn't Mikey have pictures of a lot of oil in his plenum and connector? Hmmm...
 
I haven't had a lot of practical experience on this subject w/ our 6.5's that run relatively low boost levels.

My experience with highly turbocharged gas engines was that a crankcase vacuum system did help lessen seeps/leaks. 30+ psi of boost will notably increase blowby even with a good ring seal. You also see crankcase evacuation systems on some naturally aspirated cars at the strip. They run a venturi effect tube in the header collector for the vacuum source. They claim it can also improve ring seal.

FWIW - in situations where the system is pulling too much oil back into the intake system, you can run some kind of catch can/separator in the line btwn valve cover & intake. Some include some mesh that provides a surface for oil mist/vapor to coalesce on.
 
Ok, as seems to be the case lately, I'll go against the grain and admit that my CDR vents to atmosphere.

24 PSI of boost on a 19:1 motor. No oil leaks, no oil consumption.

Now, the engine is fresh, -I will admit that.

I am not saying that the way I do things is right, -or that it should be recommended to anyone else.

I'm merely stating how mine is set up.

No leakies, no mess in the compressor housing if the turbo, -no oil consumption, -no problem.

Fire away.......
 
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