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Turbo rebuild, replace, upgrade

Does this part just get removed if I am using a manual wastegate setup? This is from the link in Post #12
View attachment 80976
My truck is a 2000. I was supplied with an ATeam Turbo so it has no waste gate.
I left the vacuum pump in place and removed the waste gate actuator and just plugged the vacuum tube to keep from tripping on the SES lamp.
Someday I’ll find a spare PCM and get it programmed for this turbo then eliminate the vacuum pump.
If I keep this truck for very much longer.
 
Does this part just get removed if I am using a manual wastegate setup? This is from the link in Post #12
View attachment 80976
Yup. The mechanical (spring loaded) wastegate assembly replaces the boost or vacuum actuated wastegate assembly. You then either plug the vacuum line or remove the vacuum pump or plug the intake manifold boost source depending on the type of actuator assembly.
 
Now, there are pros and cons to using a straight mechanically-actuated wastegate (like what is usually used to replace the GM-X vacuum-actuated wastegate) - where exhaust drive back pressure pushes against the exhaust wastegate valve until the pressure is greater than the spring holding the wastegate valve shut and allows exhaust gasses to bypass the drive turbine wheel to regulate intake manifold pressure.

Versus an intake manifold pressure-actuated wastegate where an excess build up of intake charge pressure pushes against a spring loaded diaphragm that opens the wastegate to relieve exhaust drive turbine flow and slow the drive turbine down and thus reduces the intake charge pressure back down to below the spring's rating and a safe intake pressure. That style is usually more responsive to sudden, more damaging increases over intake charge pressures than a straight spring-loaded mechanical wastegate actuators that use exhaust drive pressure to control the intake charge pressure.

That's why Cummins used Holeset turbos that used an intake manifold charge pressure actuated wastegate.

You could also go with a non-wastegated turbo - like an ATT - with a manifold pop-off valve to control dangerous over pressures in the intake charge that open up at a set pressure, sorta like the relief valve on an old-style pressure cooker.
 
I'm back to considering my options for the turbo.

Turbine wheel/shaft still available.

14cm housing - link no longer yields a result

hx40 wheel still shows a part, but I don't see much when I go to "buy now"

compressor cover still available

I did find this while I was looking around for the 14cm turbine housing:

It looks like this kit is still available, originally posted by @Twisted Steel Performance
 
Available here....

If you are planning to go the DB2 route a 14cm turbine would be best.

A holset hx35 is a bit small on the compressor side ..

I don't see anything on turbo lab's site or fleabay right now either.
 
My plan is to switch to a DB2 setup eventually. I'm looking for towing ability and I'm also partial to the whistle. I like the sound at idle and also when I'm going down the road. I'd be anxiously awaiting for people to give a double take looking at an old '95 that sounded like it was good and strong.

Looking at the parts again for a turbo, the total of the 4 parts is in the $600-700 range. Knowing nothing about turbos, is that all the components or are there more parts and those are just the major ones?
 
what happens with this bracket when the Holset or another turbo is used?
View attachment 85459
If there's a threaded boss on the new turbo to bolt a stability bracket to, you either modify that bracket or fabricate a new one to fit. It's there to basically dampen/eliminate vibration of the turbo because it's hanging way out there on the exhaust manifold and shearing/loosening either turbo mounting studs or exhaust manifold bolts because of that chunk of iron and aluminum's mass moving around.
 
I never modified/ repurposed the bracket for the 2 different turbos I've used. I can see why making another brace could be helpful as Husker described but I just tossed it and forgot. I know lots of other folks have used other turbos on this engine, would be curious to know whether they made another brace or not. I only have 35k on my rig with an upgraded turbo and no extra brace and no issue to report so far
 
I never modified/ repurposed the bracket for the 2 different turbos I've used. I can see why making another brace could be helpful as Husker described but I just tossed it and forgot. I know lots of other folks have used other turbos on this engine, would be curious to know whether they made another brace or not. I only have 35k on my rig with an upgraded turbo and no extra brace and no issue to report so far
Hey, I'm just stating what it's there for, and the GM engineers decided that it was needed for that reason. Every other turbo besides the GM-x series that have been used on these motors were designed to be used in other applications/motors/mounting where a stabilizing/vibration brace wasn't necessary.
 
If you have a prime account, this is free shipping and is about $10 cheaper. I've had one in my wish list for a good while but have stayed with the GMx turbo.

 
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