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Turbo on the CUCV what to do ???

A

Acesneights1

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Location
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Well the truck pull in Ellington is approaching and the M1008 needa the Turbo. Somehow I don't think 155HP is going to cut it. My dliemna is how o do it.

Here is what I have RIGHT NOW;
Both Manifolds of a 6.5TD
GM4 w/TM(Thanks for great deal VW Lupo)
Plate for the return line(Thanks , but I forgot who gave it to me and feel really stupid)
F intake.
Cone filter(Thanks PAveltoz)
Peninsular Upper intake(Thanks ChrisK)
I have no ex components.

A 6.5 Crossover will "probably"work due to my lift kit but I could also have one fabbed since a buying a kit may not be worth is as the DP will be useless. I have the DP off the Dually to cut for the turbo flange so ex shop will do the rest. Now the dlimena..

I at minimum will have to swap my injectors(only 59k on them) to shortys and eat the core charge to clear the 6.5TD manifold so that is 320$ right there.

The guy who sold me the Dually has most of a Banks setup for 500$. Eitherway I need ex. The Banks manifold would allow me to not have to buy short injs and I know it will fit fine.

What I am thinking is....

Buy the banks,
Use the GM4 and the F intake(The banks intake setup IMHO sucks. It has been reported that Banks users who switched to a 6.5 F intake reported substaionally less turbo lag).

And then fabb all the ex from local shop. I have never seen a BAnks setup up close installed, so I don't know how they run the ex out the back but on 6.2 with 6.5 setup, the only way to run the ex is outside the frame unless a body lift which this truck will never see.

Wayyy too much work to install a bodylift on a CUCV.

The only other hing I am uncertain about is whether or not the Banks will clear the aux alt but from what I have read on SS it should. The guy is cool and would probably let me try it.
 
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Hm, Banks downpipe clears the frame on the inside nicely in the '85 Sub 4x4 , which has a susp lift but no body lift. Happy to take some pics for you if you like...

Those Bosch turbo inj's from eBay are NOS stuff from a military supplier that went belly up. Just bought a set for under $250, if they pop as evenly as another poster's did here, I"ll be extremely happy. Just throwing it out for consideration. Seller is a super nice guy too... bent over backwards to get them to me fast, even as a total stranger.
 
The banks sends the exhaust straight out the back where the crossover on a 6.5 setup comes into the passenger side manifold. The banks crossover comes around the front of the engine underneath the harmonic balancer so there is no issue with room for 2 pipes.
 
Does anybody know for sure if the GM4 bolts to the Banks manifold ? He has the Banks turbo with the deal but it doesn't look to healthy.
 
I've heard they are both t3 style flanges but can't say for sure. If you're close to the guy with the banks kit, i would measure the flanges of the turbo and the banks mani and see if it will work together.
 
The Banks turbo is a Garrett T04b. You could prob look up the dimensions for the flange online. I have mine off and could take pix and measurements for you if needed. Pix of the downpipe and manifolds coming up...


DSCF0082.jpg

^ Downpipe in very close to installed position. Moves up only slightly when attached to turbo. You can see where the heat shielding has been insufficient to prevent cracking the insulation cover on the A/C evap unit.


DSCF0084.jpg

^ Downpipe from across engine bay. Again, more or less right where it would be when connected.


DSCF0085.jpg

^ Manifolds. Not sure if the GM unit is really a RH unit turned around for use on the driver's side, but this is what the stealer installed with the Banks kit.


DSCF0086.jpg

^ Turbo flange. Outside dim's of the flange are 4-3/8" x 2-3/4". Center to center stud pattern is 3-3/8" x 1-3/4".
 
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For a long time I ran some of the 304 stainless flex exhaust as a "cat test pipe' http://www.jcwhitney.com/flexible-exhaust-tubing/p2006251.jcwx?skuId=174761 from JC Whitney, but rust belt you have up in NE I'd run the 400 series but I no longer see it online their site, but possibly it can be ordered.

I ran same thing 9 years in galvanized flex on my Subaru Brat before rains that came with hurricane Opal put it under water at my camp when they opened the dam on the river above my camp
 
It is a factory Banks setup for a 6.2, I just don't like the way they hook to the intake. I have read that using an F intake with the Banks cut the lag alot. I believe it too. As for the Turbo Banks uses a GArret IIRC So I'll have that one and the GM4/TM . Not sure which one is better but me thinks the GM4 is probably better since it was designed ofr a larger engine.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Not sure which one is better but me thinks the GM4 is probably better since it was designed ofr a larger engine.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that the Banks/Garrett has no wastegate and will develop somewhere around 10 psi boost max.

Which might be a good thing, given the lack of oil squirters, hardened pistons, and upgraded cooling.

In other 6.2 turbo news, replacement 6.2 pistons from Mahle do NOT have hard anodized crowns or dry film coated skirts as their 6.5 pistons do. Not suprising I guess, but more than a little disappointing.
 
I spoke with Dennis about that in PM. After seeing yours what I am not sure about is the physical size of the ATT not to mention the modified flage and how it would bolt to a Banks flange. I am sure it would work if I used the 6.5 manifold setup but 800$ is alot to spend if it doesn't fit plus I have both the GM4 and will have the Garet in my possesion so spending another 800$ right now is not feasible. I was just thinking along the lines of the GM4 being snappier with out of the hole power which is what I need on this truck. It's geared ridicoulous and is not setup for towing or highway use. I'm looking for more overall power and most importantly out of the hole pulling power off road. That is why I didn't consider a GM8 either. Supposedly the GM4 has the most snap. I may have issues anyway using the Baks because of the dual alts.
 
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