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Turbo Advice for New Engine Install

Efjay

Efjay

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Location
Southern California
I have a 99 GMC Suburban and I have fallen victim to a cracked block (DOM 3/99). I have pulled the engine out and I am cleaning all the parts that will bolt onto my new P400 that is on order. While cleaning the parts I noticed 2 cracks in the turbo housing (pictured). This is a stock GM8 turbo that I just ordered a Wicked Wheel 2 for because I have spent to much money as is and I'm trying to not spend more. I have come to the conclusion I need to get a new turbo (can I weld it?). I want to get opinions on my specific set up as to the the options I have. So far I'm noticing the A Team Turbo and the HX40W-II w/down pipe adapter (any others). I understand the boost pressure is high with the HX40 but that may or may not be a good thing with my setup. I have read forums for a while though this is my first post.
My vehicle modifications are as follows.
P400 (forged internal parts, girdle, ext)
Updated H2O pump, Dmax fan, Dual 180 thermostats
4" turbo back exhaust w/ wrapped 2.5" Xover pipe and stock wrapped exhaust manifolds
New Bosch High Output injectors
Heath Diesel Performance Tune
Mechanical Waste Gate Controller
12 qt Oil Pan
14 qt Tranny Pan
S&B Cold air filter
Water Wetter
Photo on 6-19-16 at 11.31 AM #2.jpg Photo on 6-19-16 at 11.30 AM.jpg
 
Paper weight that turbo and return the wicked wheel or ebay it.

Between those two, I would do the ATT. Loosing the wastegate will help you dump heat much better. The hx might later need a cac, but not the ATT. The only advantage the hx would have is it might spool a couple hundered rpm quicker, but the $ saved on ATT cost and no cac- you can buy a qsv and have it all.
 
Will L. said:
Paper weight that turbo and return the wicked wheel or ebay it.

Between those two, I would do the ATT. Loosing the wastegate will help you dump heat much better. The hx might later need a cac, but not the ATT. The only advantage the hx would have is it might spool a couple hundered rpm quicker, but the $ saved on ATT cost and no cac- you can buy a qsv and have it all.
Click to expand...
The truck has had most of these things before the engine swap. I was a light wheeled mechanic in the Army in the 90's but I don't follow "cac" or qsv
 
Another budget item is a new tune as a different turbo really does need the correct fuel curves to get the most out of the setup. Have seen where others decided to do the turbo only, but this is merely leaving the system out of balance and lazy if the budget allows for the tune.


For the thermostats, what is the reasoning of the 180F's? If it is 'just-cause', consider moving up to 195's.

And on a related note, did not see any commentary about the cooling stack. Seeing as the P-400 is rated for more power than OE (and presuming you are going to try and squeeze a bit more out of the motor for towing that trailer), consider a new radiator and aux coolers. In fact, I'd definitely do a new oil cooler 'just-cause'.

For the exhaust, if it is 4" straight pipe, consider either a FTE resonator or muffler as the drone will get annoying after a while.

While on the topic of drone, what air filter housing? If it is anything but a K47 (OE high flow) or S&B which are true closed box setups, consider getting one as the 'open box' setups (even ones that call themselves cold-air intakes) add several Db of drone to the cab. Was personally surprised at the Db drop when I removed my open box filter (that a PO installed) and put in a K47.


Regarding which way to go with the turbo, as mentioned either the Holset or ATT. Both have their advantages, so do homework on which way you want to go. If you like a quick redlight-to-redlight response, the Holset has an advantage, but the cost is higher psi's and EGT's that should have help from either an intercooler or water injection . If you like a less complex solution that delivers excellent / the same power for a *lot* less boost and a nearly drop-in solution, the ATT has an advantage, but the cost is the turbo does not come to life under 2K RPM's (without a qsv).

For the injectors, (unless already done) consider getting the pop-off pressures matched by a reputable injection shop. If you decide on the ATT, consider the 2,200 - 2,300 psi range. Do not know what pop the Holset likes.


Plan on *lots* of oil and filter changes while the motor breaks in. The schedule I followed was:
> Oil & filter change within first 50 miles.
> Oil & filter change within first 500 miles.
> Oil & filter change first 1K miles.
From there I gradually increased the interval out to 3,500 miles *and* added analysis. Am coming up on 20K on the new P-400 and analysis is still showing that I need to keep changing frequently due to the break-in metal content.


Other things not mentioned as part of the overhaul:
> oil cooler lines: If the Burb still has the OE lines, ditch them and get a set of braided. (Leroy can help with this.)
> 'T' connectors for the coolant line for the heat exchangers. If the Burb still has the OE nylon connectors, it is just a matter of time until they break (not if). Consider getting a set of brass connectors; as an option, consider a valve to limit flow (helps with A/C performance).
 
I did forget to mention I ordered the oil cooler from lube specialist. The exhaust does have a muffler but as you can see in my profile pic I Dynamated everything including the roof. The injectors HO BOSCH injectors are being put in at AM General. What is this quick spool valve you speak of? This might be the solution as my concern with the ATT is not being alive under 2000 and my truck is @ 2000 55mph so I dont like to go over 65. Good advise on the oil analysis. S&B air intake, check.
 
Efjay said:
What is this quick spool valve you speak of? This might be the solution as my concern with the ATT is not being alive under 2000 and my truck is @ 2000 55mph . . .
Click to expand...

The ATT coming to life around 2K is no big deal and definitely not a factor when driving normally. The qsv is an add-on part for about $700 and lets the ATT make boost at lower RPM's. Again, no big deal unless the goal is to drag from redlight-to-redlight like a ricer. Seeing as your cruise RPM's are around 2K (indicating a 4.10 rear), the truck is already in the ATT's sweet spot.

If the decision is to get the ATT, get with Leroy for the tune as (last I checked) nobody else has the fuel curves that actually match the turbo. The others used theory where Leroy's came from the ATT's supplier.

Interesting that the motor is coming direct from AM General as the closest I got was WW Williams whom in turn pushed me to a local reseller (whom could not supply the motor, but I digress). Personally, I'd still consider pressing them to make sure the injectors' pop match.

Whose 12 quart oil pan is coming with the P-400? If it is AM General's, it will not fit in the Burb and you will need to get a custom pan that fits in our GMT400 truck. If it is a custom pan and not one coming from anybody but Leroy or Heath, consider using them first. If it is one that is custom welded, I do not have good experiences with them (and not naming names as I'm still not ready to share my experiences yet ;) ).

And while on the holistic level . . . What about motor and tranny mounts. If they are not already part of the plan it is a *lot* easier to replace them now ;)
 
JayTheCPA said:
The ATT coming to life around 2K is no big deal and definitely not a factor when driving normally. The qsv is an add-on part for about $700 and lets the ATT make boost at lower RPM's. Again, no big deal unless the goal is to drag from redlight-to-redlight like a ricer. Seeing as your cruise RPM's are around 2K (indicating a 4.10 rear), the truck is already in the ATT's sweet spot.

If the decision is to get the ATT, get with Leroy for the tune as (last I checked) nobody else has the fuel curves that actually match the turbo. The others used theory where Leroy's came from the ATT's supplier.

Interesting that the motor is coming direct from AM General as the closest I got was WW Williams whom in turn pushed me to a local reseller (whom could not supply the motor, but I digress). Personally, I'd still consider pressing them to make sure the injectors' pop match.

Whose 12 quart oil pan is coming with the P-400? If it is AM General's, it will not fit in the Burb and you will need to get a custom pan that fits in our GMT400 truck. If it is a custom pan and not one coming from anybody but Leroy or Heath, consider using them first. If it is one that is custom welded, I do not have good experiences with them (and not naming names as I'm still not ready to share my experiences yet ;) ).

And while on the holistic level . . . What about motor and tranny mounts. If they are not already part of the plan it is a *lot* easier to replace them now ;)
Click to expand...

QSV $700, nope lol. I'm at the way end of my bank account. Right now, because I have a prosumer shop in my garage I have determined the 2 least expensive ways for me to be up and running are to either tig my cracks, install the Wicked Wheel 2 that I already paid for and move on or return the WW2 ($160) and buy the HX40wII off ebay for $260 and fab my own down pipe adapter. After all my research I would prefer the ATT but it is what it is and I can change it later. I did order new motor mounts, but not the tranny. The oil pan is from Heath. No matter who you buy the engine from it comes from AM General direct unless you are having it modified like Leroy does. AM/GEP wont install gapless rings or aftermarket rockers.
 
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