• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Tune, resistors and tcc

Oh my goooodness. That is bad. That is real real bad. See if You can borrow a allen wrench and screw them back in. At least part of the ways.
There are no threads hanging on those, at all. Absolutely nothing holding them to the knuckle.
 
it's possible they are cross threaded when they were installed. I have to ask.. did a shop do your brakes last? at minimum I think you may be looking at new caliper bolts hoping the threads are still ok in the knuckle. maybe it was just an honest mistake where the person thought they had already tightened them up getting called off the job and then going back or another person took their place.

I know that is a bad excuse for a shop, but it does happen. I have seen it before at my work when one of the guys in the shop is working on something and something grenades in the plant, the whole crew races out to the rescue, shift change and the next guy is on the job with no communication from the previous mechanic.
 
Tried tightening the pin back in..no good. It must be bent a little bit cause when I spin it in the guide I can feel it catching here and there.. I got the truck home ok without incident..I have a extra slide pin in my trailer. I'll put it in in the morning, to cold out there tonight.
 
@Will L mentioned to me that that pin could have been the whole problem with the dragging... I thought about that for a minute cause I had thought same thing when I discovered it. But then considered that caliper has been changed probably 3or4 times since this problem started and always use the new pins. Also the pin was all the way out of the threads, I could grab the caliper and pull it up away from the rotor. The truck dragged all the way to work. So my thinking would be that if the pin wasn't holding anything ten the caliper would just be floating around on the rotor.
I'll know some tomorrow when I put new pin in and take it for a ride...
A thought I had today when getting it aligned the guy said they have to use a power bleeder to do the brake fluid flush because evidently Chevys are notorious for problems with air getting in the abs box when you open the lines and do brake work. And it's hard as hell to get out without a power bleeder.. so I guess I'll find that part out when they do the fluid flush Thursday.
 
Does anyone know where the grounds are under the dash?..
If I hit the brakes the headlights and dash lights dim for a second. And the heater only works when it wants to but doesn't seem like it's getting enough juice.. when it's not working some times if I bang on the controller and/or dash it will come on. So I'm thinking that there may be a loose/bad ground under there
 
not sure on the grounds for the dash, I think that the framework is grounded through the body. as for the blower on the heater it's most likely the blower switch in the controller. there is a connector in the harness by the blower motor that is notorious for getting a bad connection and melting. I ended up cutting mine out and splicing the wires, also adding a extra ground to the blower housing to the dash frame. check your body ground, there should be two, one on the motor to the firewall and the other on the frame to the block near the starter under the fender well.

I myself have been wondering if there was a too small of a power wire or ground to the dash. I have noticed that any time I press the brake or use the signal lights my volt gauge ticks a little and with the flashers on I can see the dimming action on the headlights even though I run LED headlights.
 
Stoney said:
Ok got thinking about this.. someone said something earlier about a problem with caliper slides/pins that a certain design has had problems..what's that about
Click to expand...
That was me. GM's original design was a pin with a steel sleeve that slid over it, the outer diameter of the sleeve being that of the holes in the "ears" of the caliper that the caliper would float on and be able to move as the pads wore. The design was a rust magnet and dirt trap that was vastly improved by Dorman and others when they made the whole pin body (except for the threads on the end) the same diameter as the sleeve that would go through the bore hole through the caliper. From the picture of the caliper pin falling out of the caliper you posted, it appears that one is of the improved design.

There should be a rubber O ring on each side of those holes through the caliper. Those are GM's idea of a 'dust boot' and are critical for the caliper's operation by keeping moisture out and allowing the caliper to "float". I would always put a pretty good dab/shmear of Hi-Temp disc brake grease just inside the outer O ring, then twist the caliper pin several times as I was pushing it through to distribute the grease between the O rings and give the caliper a well greased surface to "float" on. IIRC, the caliper pin is torqued to 35 lb/ft, I always put a drop or two of threadlock on as an added safety measure.

And as @Will L. said, make sure every place that the pads contact the caliper frame is smooth and that a very light dab of Hi-Temp Disc Brake grease is put at every pad ear contact point so that the pads can also "float" as the caliper applies and releases pressure to apply and release the pads from the rotor and not cause drag. I remember some brake systems (and pad manufacturers in complete kits) used to use a pair of "V" shaped springs that laid atop the pads and that the "legs" of the "V" caught tabs on the outer edge of the pads at each end and would assist in retracting the pads by pushing them apart with a couple of pounds pressure when pressure was released to the caliper. I know Toyota used to use them about 30 years ago.
 
Last edited:
There are two grounding points under the dash on the passenger side, one up behind the glovebox above the ECM and towards the windshield post and the other above the blower motor. Both are buggers to get to. If you need more help locating them, I can put up a couple of photos out of the GM shop manual from the electrical section that shows their location.
 
Ok cool.
Gonna post a couple pics so y'all know what I am talking about... A little gray wire I'm going to post a picture of that I'm pointing at is under the dash not connected to anything.. if I touch the bare end of it to something metal the horn beeps.. however if I push the horn in the middle of the steering wheel it also beeps even if that wire is not touching anything.
The cluster of wires on the back of the heater control, if I reach in there and wiggle those wires around the heater starts working .. the light on the air circulator button goes on and off when I push the wires around back there. And while wiggling them around I heard some kind of click sound come from under the hood somewhere...
Also when I went to start the truck the first couple times I turned the key nothing happened at all, not even the clicking sound I get sometimes similar to when your starter is dead .. put that clicking sound did not even happen. But after I turned it a couple times back and forth the truck started.. right now the heater is running really good. But sometimes when I get on the brakes the heater slows down
 
The other thing I noticed is I've been told by a couple people and read on a couple places that there is supposed to be a ground wire right next to the OBD plug. But I don't see one there
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top