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TroubleGuessing

Still installed, but not connected to ATT now, ran it for a while with IC, and since turbo provides same grunt as GM-8 with less boost & backpressure, (about half boost/BP for equivalent on GM-8) I figured what the heck maybe I don't need IC, less turbo lag now, Slim did his after I did mine, both of us don't think we will be going back to IC, if we find IAT is going to be an issue, probably easily managed with WMI, which won't spray often as times at high boost above 10 psi and when IAT really climbs will be rare


Cool! :thumbsup: literally):h I will be asking you about the a-team turbo in another thread, or by PM. I don't like postjacking! :D (PS glad to know that you are OK after your exciting 4wd adventure!)
 
LIFT PUMP

Well I did some looking around, some obvious issues with this lift pump. Going to R2 soon. When you all put in a relay, you just run a hot line back to the pump, mount the relay there, and ground it to the frame there? Let me know how you guys do it. I will look into the Walbro pump, wiring isn't an issue, but does it mount in-line without modifications? I checked the pressure on the pump. 4lbs at idle, with little drops to 3.5 every second and a half or so. When you raise the RPM, it will drop to 3 lbs momentarily.

Tell me what you guys think about this!

On a separate note, what do you think is best way to get the right bank glow plugs out for a compression check. Are they kidding, I am supposed to get those four out before the engine cools down. You have got to be kidding. If there are any tricks of the trade, I would really like to know. I took the turbo out when I changed the injectors, no way I was getting to all of those with it on. Cant do that this time unless I plug the turbo oil supply line for turning over. That don't seem like a good idea at all though.

Thanks again all and let me know what you think about the pics!
 

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Take the fender wheel well of. You should be able to see the GP.

There is one behind the DP, you may want to loosen the DP Turbo clamp to get some wiggle room.
 
Thought It Was Timing

Though maybe the IP gears were a tooth off, did some investigative disassembly and found this. Never wanted so see something wrong so bad as this, but no luck, mystery problem continues on.

Next I am going to check timing chain slack and alignment. Will post more pictures. Take care all.

If anyone can tell me with some good supporting facts how injection timing is changed during cold starting/operation that would really help isolate this issue. Advanced, or Retarded? Why?
 

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FOUND IT!

Think I finally found it.

Been fooling around with timing for months now, just knowing deep down that was the issue. Found this little gem this evening, after digging deeper to see if the timing chain seemed stretched. It ended of having about an inch of deflection, which is bad I think.

If you look at the pics you can see the key is barely half its normal thickness and the timing chain drive gear has been impacted in almost an 1/8". When I first saw this I thought that it would make for some retarded timing, but I still wondered why the ECM didn't have a code, acting like nothing was wrong. Duh, those 4 keys on the damaged sprocket are the targets for the Crank Pos Sensor. Makes sense, watch out for this one guys, I troubleshot this one for more than a year trying to figure the cause of my white smoke while running and while hard starting.

Last note, having trouble removing the back key, any tips out there?
 

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