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Today's AC bafoonery

Dan Hunter

Dan Hunter

Truck Terrorist
Messages
441
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5
Location
Enid, OK
My compressor was failing to engage. After 3 cans, it now cycles the compressor.

Now the fan doesn't work. Other than jump the low pressure switch I haven't done anything else to it.

Any ideas? I checked the fuse and the HTR AC fuse is fine.
 
I have a fan motor resistor on order though the continuity of the wire coils was good. After that I'm done. I don't even know how to access the blower fan or where the connector to it is. I'm assuming the three relays behind the glovebox are speed controllers. Could I just put a switch into a lot line wired to the output of the high speed relay and leave it at that if the fan isn't dead?

Tanner, I swear to God, if this thing ran on gasoline it'd be burning at my ranch right now.
 
And I have none of them. The display is happy and I can turn the AC compressor on and off with the button.
 
no speeds at all is usually the motor or a melted connector by the fan. There is a relay but not sure where it's at on a 94.
 
Mine has three behind the glove box. I'll go ahead with resistor since I've already paid for it and done enough bad things in my life to deserve to go back into that crappy little space and install it. If anyone has advise on removing the fan I'm interested. I just find it odd that something fails while I'm working on the AC.
 
I may spend the morning pulling the ECM and seeing if I can gain access to the motor without using a box knife to cut the cover on the fan motor off. Not like that'd bother me; I'm all about exposed wires.
 
I'll look it over in the morning but it was a bunch of bout 8mm bolts iirc. It was 3yrs ago that I actually had working air.

Source Unknown
 
The blower motor isn't hard to get to on a 94(same as a 95). Pull the glove box out, remove the ECM and it's mounting tray(this is the worst part of the job, then pull the plastic cover off from over the blower motor, unplug the purple power and black ground wires, and then remove the 7MM screws that hold it in place. The common problem though for this to happen is the ground wire that is in the blower motor power feed. Behind the glove box will be a 2 wire connector(black and red) and I think they are 12 gauge wire. it is VERY common for the pins inside the plug to get hot and melt the plastic connector, and then the blower motor stops working. the 3 relays are for the 3 fan speeds other than high, and there is a relay elsewhere that controls the high fan speed. if it works on none of the settings, then it is most likely a power feed or failed blower motor. I have one waiting to go in my BURB right now(but I have to wait for my hip to heal up some before I can put it in).
 
Ahhhhhhhhhhh...OOPs. Fired up the truck and out of morbid curiosity tried all the fan settings and the high position worked. I can't be certain I actually checked it...thought I did but I'm not certain. Hopefully I'm one fan motor resistor install from a fully functioning system.
 
Add a ground wire to the blower motor. It helps the life of that connector. You don't have to pull the foam to get to the ground screw on the motor - just add the ground to the same screw the ground terminal is on the motor.
 
unnamed.jpg

Here's a photo of the Hell hidden behind the glove box for those that haven't looked Satan in the eye. Circled green are the connectors that plug into the fan motor resistor terminals circled in yellow. Plan on jamming your left hand as deep as possible on the left side of the device to stabilize the socket in the ratched as you work the self-tapping screws one click at a time. Miserable. Oh, and either ensure you have the harness in the sun to warm it up or use a hair dryer to soften it or you'll have trouble working the relays out of the way.
 
Note the 2013 CTS coupe in the garage ahead of my 20 year old truck. And now you know who runs the house.
 
Dan Hunter said:
View attachment 40270

Here's a photo of the Hell hidden behind the glove box for those that haven't looked Satan in the eye. Circled green are the connectors that plug into the fan motor resistor terminals circled in yellow. Plan on jamming your left hand as deep as possible on the left side of the device to stabilize the socket in the ratched as you work the self-tapping screws one click at a time. Miserable. Oh, and either ensure you have the harness in the sun to warm it up or use a hair dryer to soften it or you'll have trouble working the relays out of the way.
Click to expand...

The 88-94 is a walk in the park compared to the 95-96, and the 97-00 isn't much fun either. In 95 they moved the glove box down, and the resistor is tucked in underneath the cup holders portion with barely enough room to get a rathchet on the screws for it(let alone enough room to turn it). This is why I waited to do mine until my evap failed. In 97 they put the drivers side airbag in which made a lot bigger pocket to work in, but still not as easy as the 88-94.
 
I wanted to add a couple photos of the low pressure switch, the jumped connector necessary to get the compressor moving and allow refrigerant in on the low side along with the wiring diagram for my year.

20131214_120331.jpg

20131214_120647.jpg

2009-12-14_002824_2.jpg
 
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