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Tips, tricks and shortcuts for installing injectors

chrisk1500

chrisk1500

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I have been questioned many times about the ability to swap injectors in a couple of hours.

Some believe that I can, most don't believe it. Either way, here are some tips/tricks that allow me to get it done in just under 2 hours.

1. a) - wash the engine compartment with a pressure washer or a garden hose and some engine degreaser. No need getting dirt in the new nozzles.

1. b) Make sure you have the right socket. You can get the proper socket from OTC or SnapOn. The proper socket has provisions for the return line nipples and also has a hex head on it for the use of a 7/8" wrench.

2. Disconnect the injector lines at the injectors and take out the screws that hold the clips onto the bracket on the valve covers. Gently bend the lines upwards keeping in mind that they don't have to move very far to remove the injectors.

3. Pull the old return lines off with brute force. Don't screw around with trying to get pliers on the clamps. You should be installing clampless return lines with the new injectors anyways. Trust me, you won't wreck the old lines or clamps. I have done it half a dozen times now.

4. Don't remove the turbo. Just take the heatshields off. The shields are held on by screws and tabs. Take out the screws and give the shield a yank. You will also have to take the shield off the turo.

5. When removing the passenger side injectors, use the socket and the 7/8" wrench. I don't use a ratchet at all on the passenger side.

6. Make sure that the old copper rings come out with the old injectors. Use a dental pick to remove any rings that get stuck in the head.

7. When installing the new injectors, leave the plastic cap on the IP line threads to keep things clean. No need in getting dirt in the injector.

8. Use a dab of grease to keep the new copper ring on the new injectors. It keeps the rings from falling off and into the land of no return during install.

9. Install the caps on injectors #7 and #8 with a zip tie before installing them. If you are careful, you can wiggle the injector into the socket with the cap installed without tearing the cap. Trust me.

10. Install the passenger side injectors first. Once you are done the injectors on that side, start the truck and let it run for a minute or two. Check for fuel leaks before reinstalling the heat shields.

Have fun!

PS - I know that the injectors will not be torqued properly. However, when I tighten them, I get them as tight as I can with the wrench on the socket and then I give the wrench a smack with a hammer to ensure that the injector is tight. I have never had any leaks so far *knock on wood*
 
Leave the caps on the injectors during installation would be the tip I would emphasize x2. Good post Chrisk1500. I would add don't be scared, just jump in there and do it. If you can't get it done in 2 hours but you finish the job in less than 2 days than you're doing better than a lot of people. I opted for the fender/turbo removal because I was installing a new 4" exhaust at the same time.
 
I did turbo/fender remove also, not necessary, but that was a good time to do glows and one behind the down pipe on K1500 requires fender remove for easiest access, plus while in there a good time to service/clean grounds, antiseize turbo bolts, tap for egt probe.

Good write up though Chris if all you are doing is injectors.
 
I pretty much followed your procedure but I used a 1/2" breaker bar on the socket on the passenger side. The swivel ended breaker bar in conjunction with the length of the socket worked perfect for getting over the valve cover. The only reason I didn't finish in less then 2 hours was that during the process I bumped the heater hose and the quick disconnect fitting fell in two. Even with the removing of the broken fitting and running to the hardware store for a tap I was driving down the road in less then 3 hours. No need to mess with the turbo. My return lines definitely broke when I pulled on them but the socket will fit over the stub and clamp anyway. I used the torqued injectors on the drivers side as a reference and just used feel to do the ones on the passenger side, no leaks.
 
I just got my injectors today. This is perfect timing for me. My burb has 170k on orig injectors and glow plugs. The gp's work fine but I was thinking that I should replace them too. What do you diesel maniacs think?

Thanks!
 
Rodd, do you know what type of plugs you have? 60G's? etc... If not and you don't know if they ever been out, this would be a good time to do the change (if a tip breaks off, you'll have the injector out and half a chance at getting that bugger out) and forget about it for another 100K. Have fun,
 
I use a screw driver to install the copper washers, slide them up the shank till the handle, hold with one finger, poke the blade in the bore and let go of the washer. that never fails to get them in the right place.
 
sshewins said:
Rodd, do you know what type of plugs you have? 60G's? etc... If not and you don't know if they ever been out, this would be a good time to do the change (if a tip breaks off, you'll have the injector out and half a chance at getting that bugger out) and forget about it for another 100K. Have fun,
Click to expand...

I don't know what I have. I know they are stock though since they have never been changed. So is the GP behind the injector?
 
Is this the tool that you were talking about for injector removal and installation? It looks like it is just a 30 mm socket - would it not be safe to just use a 30 mm deep socket to remove the injectors?

5060Detroit Diesel Injector SocketProduct Weight: 0.5 lbs.
5060_1915.jpg




Used on GM 6.2L and 6.5L engines. This 30 mm socket ensures proper fit during nozzle removal and installation. The 3/8" square drive and 7/8" hex permit easy access in tight quarters, and prevent damage to nozzle and related components
 
I use a 30mm deep impact socket that is 1/2"drive. I'm pretty shure it won't work with the turbo on and maybe even with the exhaust manifold on. As chris said, you need to use the 7/8 hex, with a wrench, because of clearance
 
bk95td said:
I use a 30mm deep impact socket that is 1/2"drive. I'm pretty shure it won't work with the turbo on and maybe even with the exhaust manifold on. As chris said, you need to use the 7/8 hex, with a wrench, because of clearance
Click to expand...

if i were to find a regular 30 mm socket (not deep cause deep has thicker walls) - then I should be good, right? I mean - you said you used 30mm - but I guess you said/implied you didn't have the turbo and/or exhaust manifold on.
 
treegump said:
Is this the tool that you were talking about for injector removal and installation? It looks like it is just a 30 mm socket - would it not be safe to just use a 30 mm deep socket to remove the injectors?

5060Detroit Diesel Injector SocketProduct Weight: 0.5 lbs.
5060_1915.jpg




Used on GM 6.2L and 6.5L engines. This 30 mm socket ensures proper fit during nozzle removal and installation. The 3/8" square drive and 7/8" hex permit easy access in tight quarters, and prevent damage to nozzle and related components
Click to expand...

Thats what I have. Worth the money IMO.
 
Also - i read somewhere else on the 6.5 forums - I believe I saw someone recommend putting a quart of 30 weight and 2 doses of diesel klean in their tank for their new injectors. Will the straight oil in the 30 gallon tank not cause problems?
 
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