Time to do h/g [which gaskets]

[robzombie4551]

I'm doing h/gs in the next week or so and had a couple ?s

I'm using 6.2 heads off military surplus 6.2 I bought.

I've read alot of threads and still don't have all the answers.

Which gaskets, felpro or rienz.

I'm not using studs as it seems there's to much of a chance for seepage. I'm not willing to use rtv as that will throw the torgue readings off.

I will be pushing 18/20 lbs. of boost. I would be willing to use a thicker gasket if necessary. I'm also mulling over whether to o ring the heads and the block.

Also can I swap out my precups to the 6.2 heads, without machine work. Never done 6.5 gaskets before.

If I'm missing anything that would be imperative please let me know.

Have new glows, inj. only 10,000 miles. new ho w/p installed, dmax fan, new rad, GM t stat, so that can be left off the list.

Also If I have to end up using clearwater heads do they come with the precups installed or do I use the ones in my 6.5 heads.

 

[NVW]

From what I have read on here the Felpro are the first choice.

The heads should come with pre cups.

 

[6.2 turbo]

I would go with the Victor Rienze 6.5 gasket. The solicor 6.2 gasket is also pretty good. 20 psi boost shouldn't be a problem. All the precups fit any head.

 

[buddy]

Are the injectors in the same place on 6.2 heads? Or do 6.2 injector lines have to be used, do they fit on a DS4.

 

[ak diesel driver]

same place but some have diff style long vs short

 

[3500GMC]

just some thoughts

81 & 82 6.2 heads have the long coarse injectors at a different (wider) angle. The precups on these early heads will not interchange because alignment the 'tang' is on the opposite side. Anything other than these bastards and it's pretty much plug and play.

Newer 6.2 heads are the same casting as the 6.5.

As far as I know the line nut threads are all the same on the inj end.

I'm using FelPro normal thickness 6.5 gaskets on my 6.2 turbo for better or worse.

Anything I've seen, the CW heads are a complete bolt on deal.

Definitely use new bolts. Most have sealant already applied.

 

[robzombie4551]

Definitely use new bolts. Most have sealant already applied.

So what you're saying is that all the bolts or some will have [that blue or orange sealant applied to the threads] like I have seen on fittings used on other applications.

I would think all or none would have the sealant as that will provide different torque values.

same place but some have diff style long vs short

They are the short injectors, the V/C says 1994. Would they make good spares or are they less fuel volume than 6.5TD inj.. I only ask because these motors are generally taken out with less than 60,000 miles on them and they would be tested before an install. If they are only good for NA motors I don't want to waste money having them checked if I can't use them.

I also will do a mild bowl clean up,straighten any dog legs and port match on them before the install.

 

[robzombie4551]

Okay spent some time on it and here is what I have. Very low hour/mileage 660 block, still has the hone in the cylinders. Very little soot in the exh. entire drivetrain internals look like they are new or just out of the machine shop. Zero sludge or carbon build up.

inj. look new and are bosch PT.#0430211054 or 461-4 with a green band above the hex. The inj. that came out of my truck are PT# 0430211097 or 463-5 with an orange band above hex. Does anyone know which ones are better?

The pintle on the mil-spec inj.looks a hair bigger, other than that they are exactly the same.

Should I just use the whole 6.2 motor. Or just the heads off the 6.2 and stick with my 6.5 bottom end. It has 230,000, but very minimal if any blowby and runs great.

I don't want extra work either way,If I can get another 100,000 out of my 6.5 bottom end I would rather just do the top end.

I only ask this because most high mileage gas motors I've done the heads on have blown the bottom end out within 6 months. This is something that I would like to get a year or two out of until cash is more abundant. If money wasn't an issue I would do a full rebuild.

I guess what I want to know is, what are the chances of this holding together for any length of time with a top end rebuild and towing about 5/8000 lbs..

 

[6.2 turbo]

You probably should pull the pan on the 6.5 and look for cracks.

 

[3500GMC]

As far as reusing bearings, Plastigauge. If they're within spec, well, they're within spec and usable.

 

[Mr. Hipster]

Doing head gaskets and adding stock turbo to my 70k mile 6.2. Bought new Victor Reinz bolts off eBay and a set of Fel Pro bolts from Summit 55 bucks shipping in each, using Victor head gasket, little paranoid due to the turbo. Anyhow, went through the torque protocall with the bolts from Victor, noticed they had 10.9 on the head, the oems had 11.9. Set came one bolt short so I used a clean original in one hole, got worried when it came to the quarter turn, bolts felt like torque to yield except for the oem, it felt tight. Tried one of the Fel Pro packaged bolts, had three dash's on the head, felt a little better but not making me feel good. Pulled out the 10.9s and put them in the scrap.
Did I say I'm paranoid? Called my machine shop and ordered a set of studs $200 and Cometic head gaskets, $210 the pair.
It's just a old pos truck to pull my boat with but I don't want to screw this thing any time soon.
The test stand help me keep sane when puttering with the junk I love to putter with. The transmission provide load when torque converter is engaged, unit is locked internally, saw 5 # of boost several times at less than half throttle, then I saw the bubbles coming out of the head/block parting line @ # 7. Yes it was time for gaskets.

 

[Will L.]

Mr. Hipster,Glad to see you ditched the wrong head bolts, and reusing the 1 already stretched and no good head bolt for the missing one would have failed, no doubt about it. Before you go any further, I suggest starting a thread of your own , describing it all from the start and where your at now. Why, other than a cool record of your own truck build, We would have stopped you from using those gaskets. I am willing to bet you cant find 2 people with the 6.5 that used cometic gaskets and got 100,000 out of it with out the heads coming back off. Victor rienze, or Felpo. possibly +10 gaskets depending on how true the head and block are, what boost your running, and so forth. The is a supplier here, Leroy's Diesel, that I believe would have beat the price you paid for ARP head studs.
That's a good test stand you have there and I like the oil bypass line you made, but hope your intent for that is stand only. Make sure to put in new oil cooler lines when it goes back in the rig. These engines will not last with out the cooler, and a blown line wipes an engine in a heartbeat.

 

[Mr. Hipster]

Yes the oil lines are for the test stand, have new lines to complement the recored radiator 650 bucks worth(eek) Sent you a PM Will.

 

[Burning oil]

Beautiful engine stand.

http://leroydiesel.com/products/arp-head-studs-6-2-6-5-diesel/

http://leroydiesel.com/product-category/engine-lubrication/

 

[Mr. Hipster]

Thanks, make me happy and find me a couple of the short oil pump drives like the late model center turbo engines have, PLEASE. I LIKE the center mount due to my attraction to the 3208 Cat engine, but that's another saga. I have a couple of 6.2 blocks slated for conversion. I am well aware of the 6.5 history and predilection for cracking main webs. I have a several 5.7 GM Cadillacs, Oldsmobiles and couple 5.7 Pickups, used to beating dead horses and fighting hopeless battles. www.autotransdesign.com