The Stealth BOMB'r is under the knife

[BigBlueChevy]

You left some grease prints on the batteries










Seriously Rich, Fawkin outstanding work. I may also steal your idea for the battery mounts if you don't mind though. Do I see a little fire ring action on that head?

 

[Cumminalong]

Here's the current state of the Stealth BOMB'r.

Took the opportunity to clean the frame while I had it like this.

The batteries are done, bolted it, and ready for wiring.

I messed with the FASS today. Chopped the bracket down a bit, and re-routed some lines.

 

[Cumminalong]

Do I see a little fire ring action on that head?

Certainly do.

I've had the fire ring kit sitting here for a year and a half and just never had a reason to pull the head.

But, now that I'm gonna throw the happy bottle at it, I figured it was time to git 'r dun.

:thumbsup:

 

[Cumminalong]

Well, here was the extent of my evening.

Wasn't feeling real motivated to actually accomplish anything, so I just installed the B&W turnover GN.

I've had it sitting here for a while and figured, screw it, the bed's off.

 

[83GMCK2500]

Very nice, I like B&Ws, in my limited experience they seem to build a quality product. What do you think of them, of their product?

 

[Cumminalong]

Very nice, I like B&Ws, in my limited experience they seem to build a quality product. What do you think of them, of their product?

It's a stout unit, that's for sure.

I've never heard anyone complain or have a bad thing to say about B&W, so when my buddy removed this one from a 3 month old truck that was getting a flatbed, I wasn't gonna pass it up for $100.

You don't have to remove the bed to install it, but it sure as hell makes it easier.

The main thing I liked about the B&W Turnover is that it give you the options of regular gooseneck, pintle, a TRUE 5th wheel hitch, etc.

Some of the GN's that can use 5th wheel adapters actually mount it to the trailer and you need several extensions to do it, which adds a lot of stress to the trailers hitch box.

I want to say there are like 7 different hitch options for that one platform.

 

[Cumminalong]

So here was tonight's fun.

Got all the fuel system stuff I needed except for the -10 to -8 y-fitting to split the supply line off to the CP3's.

Then I ran into something I didn't notice until today....

The pickup tube from the tank has a a different size fitting than the inlet to the FASS and won't fit a -10 line.

I found an adapter that would work, but it definitely wouldn't have been ideal and would have made running the -10 kind of pointless.

So, after confering with my man Tom, we came up with a solution.....time to sump the tank and put a 1/2 NPT fitting on it to feed that -10 line to the FASS.

Here's what used to feed 740+ HP.....

Here's what'll be feeding the beast now.....

Why buy it when you can make it.

These are the two sides of the bulkhead that will sandwich the tank.

One will be getting cut out to serve as the bowl and the other will get tapped for 1/2 NPT. The 6 holes will be getting tapped on one of the flanges for 3/8 cap head bolts. Add in a gasket and she'll be golden.

 

[Pepperidge]

Rich,

good call on going with a sump under the tank...Steve(Dura-Ration) built mine...(thanks my friend)

 

[Cumminalong]

Rich,

good call on going with a sump under the tank...Steve(Dura-Ration) built mine...(thanks my friend)

Yeah, I still need to finish it up today.

Need to tap for the 1/2 NPT onthe outer flange, gonna taper the outside edge of the inner flange so the when the fuel is low it has a smooth transition to the sump, rather than running into a wall.

Need to cut a gasket for it and drill the tank.

Then I can get the bed back on it make it look like my truck again.

 

[Cumminalong]

Here's essentailly what it's going to look like when it's done.

 

[Pepperidge]

The one Steve built for me, the sump is below the tank with the 1/2" fitting coming out the side of the sump... so there are no 90's to deal with...

 

[Cumminalong]

Okay, first off, I gotta give a huge thanks my partner to Tom.

He did a KICK AZZ job of the fuel sump for the tank. I'm REALLY happy with the way it came out.

We were able to get the flanges exactly how we had talked about them.

And the best part, NO MORE PICK UP TUBE.

You rock, brother!

It's all bolted in, the tank is up on the saw horses with a few gallons of fuel in it to make sure there are no leaks. Tomorrow it'll get bolted back in and I can get the bed back on the truck.

Here's the outter flange.....

Here's the inner flange.....

Drilling the bottom of the tank.....

Sump parts.....

Installed.....

Leak testing it overnight. No, this is not the fitting that will be on it when it goes on the truck. I'll have a full flow 90* fitting going to the side toward the FASS.

 

[BigBlueChevy]

That's really cool! If you don't mind me asking, how does this benefit from the draw straw style aside from being able to flow a boatload more fuel than stock?

 

[Cumminalong]

That's really cool! If you don't mind me asking, how does this benefit from the draw straw style aside from being able to flow a boatload more fuel than stock?

1 - I won't have the 1/4 tank issues that are associated with the draw straw, and

2 - Like you said, providing a boat load more fuel.

My truck runs dual CP3's, 160 HP injectors, 230HP worth of tuning, etc.

There was NO WAY that 3/8" line was efficient at providing enough fuel to dual CP3's.

 

[CtChevy427]

Great fab job Rich.......:thumbsup: Looks like it will work out perfectly.

 

[hoot]

I would think the FASS would more than make up for volume restriction from the tank to the FASS just by shear brute force.

The sump idea looks good. I do like it except you no longer have the benefit if not sucking up excess water and dirt in the event of a bad tank of fuel. With the sump setup water and dirt get priority. The FASS will handle it though.

As for the battery setup... again, beautiful work. Do you think you might want to install some hard rubber stripping in the channels to help ease the shock and vibration on the batteries? I realize those batteries are designed for rough service but they are an assembly of components in a glued together plastic case. Wouldn't hurt to add a slight bit of dampening. McMaster sells rubber goods at different hardness levels you could cuy and glue in.

Nice work!

 

[Cumminalong]

It wouldn't matter if it was a sump setup, draw straw, or the stock pickup. If the pickup is at the lowest point, water and debris will ALWAYS be the first thing to get sucked up, just due to it being heavier than the diesel.

On the batteries......trust me.....they aren't vibrating. You're more likely to bounce and vibrate a stock battery than these are.

As for the volume.....you gotta remember that the CP3 is much more sensitive to volume than it is to pressure, unlike the VP44. The CP3 has it's own internal gear driven lift pump, but it needs volume to move it. The original fuel system only had 3/8" line going to the FASS, 3/8" like from the FASS to a T-fitting that split toboth CP3's and then 3/8" line to both pumps. There was no way that was as efficient as it will be.

With a few things I'm doing to on this build, it's gonna need that fuel.

I would think the FASS would more than make up for volume restriction from the tank to the FASS just by shear brute force.

The sump idea looks good. I do like it except you no longer have the benefit if not sucking up excess water and dirt in the event of a bad tank of fuel. With the sump setup water and dirt get priority. The FASS will handle it though.

As for the battery setup... again, beautiful work. Do you think you might want to install some hard rubber stripping in the channels to help ease the shock and vibration on the batteries? I realize those batteries are designed for rough service but they are an assembly of components in a glued together plastic case. Wouldn't hurt to add a slight bit of dampening. McMaster sells rubber goods at different hardness levels you could cuy and glue in.

Nice work!

 

[hoot]

I didn't think your batteries would vibrate at all "within" that setup. That wasn't what I meant. A little rubber goes a long way though in absorbing some of the vibs that perpetuate through the frame from roads, driveline and anything else. Actually having the batteries locked hard with zero dampening like that could be a bad thing for them long term. Just a thought.

On the fuel volume thing. I agree over engineering the flow volume is good. Doing it overkill doesn't cost that much. I guess I was thinking more from an engineering point of view. I'm sure there is data for fuel usage each pump will use at a given power level. The flow capabilty of the supply system can be roughly calculated by putting the line diameters and lengths into the equation that would give you a flow rate. Has anybody already done the math?

 

[BigBlueChevy]

Thanks for clearing that up Rich. :thumbsup:

As for the size of the line, you are right about the FASS being able to make up for the volume in "sheer brute force" However, imagine it like this. Your trying to flow 75gph worth of diesel fuel out of point A(The line running to the CP3) and it needs to be drawn in from Point B(the line coming from the tank). If you use a garden hose to suck the fuel out, the pump is going to have to work extra hard in order to not only supply that much volume worth of fuel, but also fight against the natural restriction of the stock setup(the garden hose) Now, if you use, say, a firehose to draw the fuel from the tank into the FASS, now the pump need only fight with supplying 75gph. From an engineering standpoint, I could also see this increasing the flow rate of the pump(assuming the pumps are not over-advertised as is). I would be interested in having someone do a dyno run with 2 identical trucks, one running with the stock setup, and another running Richs' setup like this and see if there is any notable difference. Again, great work Rich!

 

[Cumminalong]

Thanks for clearing that up Rich. :thumbsup:

I would be interested in having someone do a dyno run with 2 identical trucks, one running with the stock setup, and another running Richs' setup like this and see if there is any notable difference. Again, great work Rich!

Oh, the truck will be back on the dyno as soon as it hits 500 miles on the motor. Hell, as soon as it hits 440 miles, I'll drive up to the dyno, change the oil in the parking lot and put 'er on the rollers.

The only problem will be that I've made so many changes and additions that it wouldn't accurately reflect JUST the fuel system change.

With all the crap I'm doing on this build, I'm expecting well over 800 HP on fuel only. I'm actually expecting close to 850 on fuel.

Hit the happy button and that should bump up nicely into 4 digits.

):h