The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

[Burning oil]

Found it http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...ns-swaps&highlight=Cummins+High+mount+bracket

 

[great white]

Found it http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...ns-swaps&highlight=Cummins+High+mount+bracket

Thanks Leroy.

Hopefully I'll get at least 5-10 years out of the optimizer so I can make a solid plan of attack, search for the right parts and spread the cost out....

 

[Burning oil]

Buy a second truck so you can get started now.:hihi:

 

[great white]

Well, I finally got curious enough about what numbers my truck would throw down if tested.

So, I spent a couple bucks on an app for my iphone called "dynolicious".

12.99, i said I was curious not that I wanted to break the bank!

Besides, no chassis dyno's or timed strips around for at least a couple hundred miles....heck, the nearest stanadyne dealer is 3.5 hours away by highway.

Yeah, pretty stupid name, but it gets really good reviews. Often called as good as a GTech pro.

Nice thing is it lets you take a snap shot of the results in picture format.

I'll have to take a trip to the scales to get and accurate current weight and then a quick shot to 60 to get a baseline.

 

[great white]

Getting ready to install the Aplha therm washer fluid heater.

I'm not totally sold on hard wiring it to the battery (as per instructions) so I'm making a "shut off" for it.

It can draw 60 amps, so I'm putting a Cole Hersee 24117 solenoid/relay in the power line. I'll just put it in the underhood space next to the one that's already there for the main power feed (4 gauge wire) I installed into the cabin to power a distribution block for all my current "goodies"..

The Cole Hersee will be triggered off and accessory source so the alpha therm will only come on with the truck.

It takes somewhere around 15-30 seconds to reach full heat, but that's no biggie as my truck usually idles longer than this before driving off. 1-3 minutes on high idle in the winter usually.

The heated washer nozzles will be a bit different. They will also be triggered off and acc source but will require a lower amperage relay.

Probably use a 40A.

The circuit will also in corporate a temperature trigger. I haven't decided on a N.O. 5c switch or a 0c switch. That way, the nozzles won't be powered in anything warmer than 0c or 5c (depending on what I go with).

I'm also going to have to retrofit the two 30 pin cannon plugs I've been planning to put on the firewall. There's just too many wires passing though the firewall now. I'd have to drill another pass through hole and I've got too many now....

Wiring, wiring wiring........gotta love it......:rolleyes5:

 

[great white]

Here's the washer circuit I have planned:

Haven't decided if I'm going to have a switch in the cab to turn it off when desired yet. Don't really need to as it will turn off with the truck ACC power by the circuit design. Still, 60A is a big draw I won't mind being able to turn off when I want to.

Here's the nozzle heater circuit:

Haven't decided if I want to disable the system with a switch either.

There's just something in me that wants to be able to turn things on and off myself. The systems are designed to do it themselves, but it just doesn't give me a "warm and fuzzy" feeling.

Probably an occupational hazard of flying. We've got control Circuit Breakers for every system and can kill them by popping the breaker.

My switches serve the same purpose...disable the system when needed...

 

[great white]

Holy crap, just noticed the stats on my thread; 26,385 views!

 

[great white]

Took the first step towards powered ext cab windows.

Just bought a suburban drivers door window switch assembly.

Let the parts collecting begin!

 

[handcannon]

Took the first step towards powered ext cab windows.

Just bought a suburban drivers door window switch assembly.

Let the parts collecting begin!

Way to go!! Looking forward to seeing better pics and write-up than I did.

Don

 

[deejaaa]

when are you goint to make a run on the pocket dyno?

 

[great white]

when are you goint to make a run on the pocket dyno?

When I can see clear pavement again.....

 

[great white]

Decided to go for led lighting in the cab.

Cluster, hvac, radio, door switches, etc.

Ordered up 100 5mm and 100 3mm 4000-5000 mca flat top LEDs. 120 degree angle.

I've got drawers full of 1/4w resistors, I'll just have to set up a trimmer pot to figure out how bright I want them and then select the right resistor.

The auber gauges and the cobra 29 are already blue, this will just make it all match.

 

[great white]

I'm also thinking about doing a bit of wood grain in the interior like he Denali and escalade interiors. Not a lot, just some accents.

I sure would like a wood grain steering wheel. But those are hard to come buy and not cheap when you do....

 

[great white]

Up to my eyeballs in books and tech manuals.

Currently reading:

Diesel Engine reference book 2nd edition, Diesel Engine system design by Qianfan Xin, The handbook of diesel Engine by Klaus Mollenhauer and Bosch Diesel engine management by Robert Bosch.

My head is about ready to pop!

I used to think that the IDI design was limited by either it's throttling effect of the Ricardo chambers or it's thermal inefficiency, but I'm coming to the realization that it's both.

Getting "competitive" power out of this design is getting less and less likely.

Whew, need a beer break I think.....

 

[L98TPI]

Two quick points:
1. I am so glad I don't live where I need a heated windscreen washer fluid and nozzle system.
2. IDI has its advantages though, a trade off for its limitations. Simple, cheap, efficient, lighter weight, cold starts not so hard. DI in a light (relativity) engine that is quiet, efficient, and cold starts easy is a new thing borne of high tech electronics. That's leaving out the EPA factor. rrr:

By efficient I mean in a automotive application across the range of operating speeds, and idle.

 

[great white]

My truck has been broken in to once (before I owned it).

Much the same way as probably all the GMT400's have been broken into; jam a screwdriver in between the handle "cassette" and door skin, pop the lock cylinder rod and open the door.

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about (not mine):

My door skin was bent in the attempt and the handle cassette was snapped (thank you cast aluminum). Both sides. God forbid you actually work for something when you can just steal it.......:skep:

When I bought the truck I replaced them with some spares I had lying around. All is good, handles work again and look good.

But now, I'm living in a very low crime rate area.

Good right?

Nope.

I had to pop down to the local quick-e-mart for a carton of milk today.

As pulled in, there was another GMT400 in the lot with a guy standing next to it.

I pulled in and looked at the guy as I parked.

The little dirty little F'n SOB had a frickin' screwdriver in his hand!

When he saw me looking his way he walked off. A bit later, I saw a different guy leave the store and drive the truck away.

Christmas freakin' day no less....what a F*&^#G A$$&*^E !!!!!!!

Well, long story short, I don't want these "c'mon in" door cassettes on my truck anymore. I'm military and could end up living in Edmonton, Toronto, Victoria, Hallifax, etc at the drop of a hat. All waaaayyy higher crime rate areas than where I am now......

I'm planning some sheet metal work in the somewhat near future so I plan to remove these things and weld in something less thief friendly.

Seems most guys want to use the newer handles like the GMT400 for that flush look, I'm actually thinking of going backwards to move forward.

I'm thinking of grabbing something like a mid 80's Camaro set of handles, skin and all:

Graft it into the area that's a big open square in the GMT400 panels and call it done. GM was even nice enough to make a nice flange to weld the patch panel into (stock lip for the stock "cassette").

The Camaro handles aren't flush:

but they're close to it and a small price to pay for better security.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Maybe the handles of a 60's car with the external handle?

I'm stuck with aluminum of pot metal no matter what I do, but I can at least minimize the vulnerability of the design with something like the Camaro door skin pieces.

The Kodiak ones aren't an option here. Same/similar problem with ease of break in.

I've also looked at things like "jimmijammers", but I'm not impressed. The thief will still try jamming the screwdriver in, which will F up the door skin and break the handle. I want them to walk up, get confused and walk away.

Sure, they can still break the window, but why bother when there's an easier "pigeon" two rows over in the same parking lot....

I'm actually thinking of doing away with the outside door lock cylinders all together.

No lock rods to access from the outside that way.

Just use the remote fob.

If the battery dies in the fob, they're easily bought.

If the truck battery runs down, it's easily jumped through the winch quick disconnect in the bumper.













PS. My ignition is defeated in a way no one will get it started unless they know how. No switches, no locks, no plugs......

 

[great white]

Actually, now I'm thinking fox body mustang handles:

All metal behind it, bust it off and you still can't get into the door.

Shave off the lock cylinders and Bob's you uncle.

Since it the fox body ford, there will be parts available until long after my truck turns to dust. There is guaranteed to be at least ten rotting away in any yard you stroll into.

As secure as the door can possibly get from the outside...

 

[great white]

God help me, I find myself liking this look more and more:

Other variations:

Probably because I've already had to dodge a couple of these:

Had an encounter like that last pic too. These big suckers are in "stealth mode" in the dark! You don't see them until you're pretty much on top of them. And in Newfoundland, once you're outside the "town", it's black as pitch everywhere! That's why the front end of the truck is getting four 100W offroad lights with the outside one pointed to the ditch on the side of the road! Squeegeed out to many pairs of shorts after a night drive from grand falls already. Heck, I've even seen ford taurus's and cavaliers with 4 big off road lights screwed into the front of them. No fooling, it's a fight for survival on the roads after dark out here!

The road signs don't make you feel any better either:

Yeah, they get big out here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjawM5UzQoQ&feature=player_embedded

Is it a problem really?

Well, all the "in province" Truckers pretty much look like this:

Yeah, I'd say it's worth taking serious if the local workin' boys do.....

 

[L98TPI]

Nice Roo bars. Do you have to order those from the Great White North? I have never seen any quite so substantial here. We have a serious problem with deer here in SWVA. The wife when she was on the late shift at the hospital hit 5 in three years. We called her deer magnet. We hunt deer hard around these parts but with all the crops for them to eat the hunting regulations wont let enough be killed to keep up. I hear tell the big cats are coming back so maybe that will make a dent.

 

[great white]

Nice Roo bars. Do you have to order those from the Great White North? I have never seen any quite so substantial here. We have a serious problem with deer here in SWVA. The wife when she was on the late shift at the hospital hit 5 in three years. We called her deer magnet. We hunt deer hard around these parts but with all the crops for them to eat the hunting regulations wont let enough be killed to keep up. I hear tell the big cats are coming back so maybe that will make a dent.

Actually, the bars on the semi come from a company in Winnipeg Manitoba.

The ones on the 'burbans are from Australia.

But, If i want one, I've got a couple guys local who are.........ahem....."handy"..... with fabricating.