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The "restification" of a 98 6.5 TD...

Good lord!

Bill wasn't kidding when he said the gm dealer told him the price of the goodwrench 6.5 was going up the week after we changed mine;

I paid 7200 for my engine, I just checked the current price and it's anywhere from 8900 to 9300!

:svengo:

Now that I think of it, I wonder if that price increase might indicate that the goodwrench 6.5 replacements are going to be p400 castings instead of Optimizers?

Hmmmmmm.........a P400 might be as close as your friendly local gm parts counter....wouldn't that be nice?
 
Good lord!

Bill wasn't kidding when he said the gm dealer told him the price of the goodwrench 6.5 was going up the week after we changed mine;

I paid 7200 for my engine, I just checked the current price and it's anywhere from 8900 to 9300!

:svengo:

Now that I think of it, I wonder if that price increase might indicate that the goodwrench 6.5 replacements are going to be p400 castings instead of Optimizers?

Hmmmmmm.........a P400 might be as close as your friendly local gm parts counter....wouldn't that be nice?

Still seems like a big price jump 20%. Must be something going on with the production or labor costs of that plant in OH, could be they are paying more for steel but a new optimizer would be great if there are just going to the p400 casting that's even better.
 
Well, break in oil change was done at the 500 mile mark, second scheduled oil change is gone, now it's time for another.

Tomorrow begins the steady diet of Rotella T6 Synthetic and Mobil 1 synthetic media filter....
 
Back in the land of ice and snow.

Got tired of washer nozzles freezing over so modified some VW heated washer nozzles to fit the stock locations in the truck. Flick of the switch and the nozzles thaw themselves out, no waiting for the sun or engine heat to do the job.

Heated washer fluid will soon follow. I'm thinking a universal alpha therm unit. Good for winter and summer cleaning.

Cooling system fitration is up and running.

Relocating the oil filter will soon come to fruitition.

Just sourced a set of these:

4l80e-1.png


anyone guess what they're for?

I'll give a hint, it's for something I haven't added extra filtration or cooling for yet.....

;)
 
Good Lord man! I just got through reading this whole thread over several days with a side track over to the Hammer Down thread with the engine failure saga. Sounds so much like me working on my junk and a trip or two I have been through. Will be spectating and commenting sparingly. I have a 96 3/4 ton 4X4 Suburban that has the engine apart waiting for this depression to be over to finish. Maybe I will if I get lucky in the job department put in a Optimiser instead of just new heads.
 
It's waaaaay early to be thinking this stuff, but I'm swinging back to a 12v swap when or if the optimizer goes south.

Good thing is I've got lots of time to plan it out.

12v p pump.

Keeping the 4l80e, using an adapter and adding an optishift

Cruise control needs to be figured out.

Then there's fitting the tall 6bt into the engine bay. Don't want a body lift and not interested in a cowl hood.

Just have to accept fast wearing front end components.

Lots to consider......
 
I put a 6bt in my 96, no body lift, no cowl hood required. You will have to mod oil pan and drop diff 2".
Im in process of a Isuzu 4bd2t swap in my Suburban. Also available was the 6bd1. both are mecanical ip and has a mechanical shut down with an electric solenoid to pull the lever witch means its easy to bypass the solenoid and just pull it with a cable. They will run with power just to the starter.
Heres my build http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?32348-Isuzu-4BD2T-diesel-swap-into-Suburban
 
I put a 6bt in my 96, no body lift, no cowl hood required. You will have to mod oil pan and drop diff 2".
Im in process of a Isuzu 4bd2t swap in my Suburban. Also available was the 6bd1. both are mecanical ip and has a mechanical shut down with an electric solenoid to pull the lever witch means its easy to bypass the solenoid and just pull it with a cable. They will run with power just to the starter.
Heres my build http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?32348-Isuzu-4BD2T-diesel-swap-into-Suburban

Modifying the oil pan is no sweat.

Don't like the idea of dropping the front differential.

I'll have to see what can be done if I eventually get into it deeper.

Just in the research stages right now.

2-3 grand for a donor, 1000-1500 for an adapter (6bt to 4l80e) and 500-ish to run the trans is already sounding expensive.

The 4l80e should do just fine. Target is around 300 hp, 500-550 lbs feet and 15-20 mpg.

Well, maybe an eye towards "more" in the future.........
 
Also the bread truck adapter runs around $500-700. Includes everything w/starter too.
The Cummins has so much aftermarket support its a pretty easy swap. Keep your eye out for the water inlet bracket that allows A/C comp to mount high.
I have a thread on it somewhere here. Search "Cummins High mount bracket"
 
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