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Symptoms for bad ignition switch?

Pillow

Pillow

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Location
Warrenton, VA
Well the wifes 99 is acting up a bit.

It has been stalling randomly and "sputtering" occasionally. It has not happened to me while driving so I am a little limited in my knowledge of what all is going on .

Here is what I do know:
- No trouble codes
- Heath PMD kit
- New Baldwin fuel filter
- Heath hp4 if that matters.
- New battery wires = good + and - connections

She reports that the engine starts right back up after stalling. The WTS light does flicker as well.

When the motor "sputters" it has no power and starts puffing black smoke for about a minute with a really rough engine sound.

I need to ask if the cruise control still works.

Could this be part of the bad ignition switch syndrome that some people have experienced?

Any help is appreciated, and just let me know if you need more info and I can get an answer.

Thanks!
 
Could be. Mine went bad last summer and the dealership couldn't even diagnose it. I found it by accident one day just fiddling with the wires and I was able to duplicate the problem symptoms. Let someone else chime in, though, before spending the chunk of change to buy that harness. It's not cheap, although, it's pretty easy to install.
 
lift pump, gnd to lift pump, for rough running scenarios; and fuel shutdown solenoid on top of IP also a possibility.

When you installed the Heath remote did you seal the connections, and use the zip tie to keep pins to socket tight.

FWIW also a Heath remote still uses a stanadyne driver, so possibly it may be that, occurances do happen that they fail but not many have, I'd call Heath to see what they say.

HP4 has a extended WTS glow cycle on it so that may be coincidence she is seeing there, yours being a 99 did you have any trouble with the theft learn, see if there are any codes for VTD being set, if VTD thinks truck has been stolen and PCMs swapped, it may try to disable vehicle
 
I battle ign switch problems and it was very similar to my PMD problems, IIRC I could cycle on and off the key and eventually a few lights that normally would come on wouldn't eveyr now and again. Give that a shot see if its hitting all circuits 100 times out of 100 times.

Hell, after 100 times, even if it wasn't the problem you'll need to replace it... You get my point.

BTW, that is a defanate AC-Delco Replacement part if it were my rig.
 
Update.

It stalled for me today... Just like turning off the key. Dead. Started right back up and drove 20 minutes home no problem. Weird.

I am fairly certain it is not the PMD. Wife reports that the cruise works and again it starts right back up every time. With the old bad IP mounted PMDs it would stall and have to wait to restart.

The HP4 and hi-po stuff has been in for like 2 months, and I did have to do the security learn procedure. :( The LP and all that is in good shape. The wiring harness for the PMD is in good shape and I checked it again tonight. Also I made sure the ground wire for the PMD was in good shape as well. I have scanned it with AutoEnginuity and can find nothing out of the ordinary either.

Hmmm, fuel shutdown solenoid... Is there a test for that?

Anyone have the PN for the Delco harness for the ignition switch?

It definately makes it tough when this is her daily driver for kiddies and work vehicle.

Thanks for the help guys!!!
 
Its a very common thing to go. Like I said I did have IGN probs, and switch fixed it. Then PMD problems (I was getting the bugs outta her :). Can't hurt to change it on a whim if its the original. 10 years is alot of movement for a complex switch.
 
Well said Matt.

Also I have a spare good IP sitting around maybe I should swap the fuel solenoid as well just to see what happens.

Dang impossible GM part numbers time.
 
Adrian,

remove shutdown solenoid input wire, & check for 12v with ign key in run position touch your + lead to the input plug and the - lead of your meter to body of solenoid you should get same voltage as what is on the batts this will confirm good gnd of the solenoid body, then after you do that with ignition key on engine off, touch the + lead to solenoid spade lug, you should hear a audible solid click, if you have that then solenoid is probably fine,
 
Updates.

I did order the ignition switch harness today from gmpartsdirect. Dealer wanted $207, I think not.

I checked the solenoid and it checked good, with a faint clicking sound. Not loud like the glow plug solenoid.

Also I tightened the clip on the MAP (? - the large sensor on the upper manifold intake air tube) sensor with a ziptie since it has/had a little wiggle to it. Granted I doubt this was any issue at all.

More to come.
 
Hi Adrian,

I replaced the ignition switch on mine - hardest part was getting the plug under the dash apart and back together. There isn't a lot of room under there to maneuver.

My problem turned out to be BAD FUSE CONTACTS. I ended up pulling fuses on the engine bay fuse box, noting they were heavily oxidized, and using a dremel tool and a small rotary wire brush, brushed clean EVERY single one of the blade fuses. I also used DeoxIt and sprayed the sockets. All my issues with lack of glows, error codes, etc. went away. I was sure (judging from the wiring diagram) that it was the ignition switch. I for sure and certain was NOT going to put the old one back in. I comfort myself thinking that "Oh well, the truck is 15 years old, it probably needed a new one anyway..."

Add to that the new glow plugs (needed them anyway), the new glow plug relay AND the new fuel filter AND the new OPS AND the new EGR solenoids AND the all-new grounds (sorely needed)... things are a lot better, but I still believe that it was the fuses all along. I just happened to find some things that needed to be changed out anyway. That's what you get with 180K miles and 15 years. It's back to being very dependable.

The photo in the link shows the correct switch, yes.

Rob :)
 
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Good stuff Rob! I never even considered looking at the fuses. I will do that this weekend and see what comes of it.

Thanks!
 
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