I recently purchased a 1995 1500 Suburban. Am seeking suggestions on how or what I should do to upgrade--in order to haul a 5000lb horse trailer w/motorcycle. Is it possible to switch to a more beefed-up suspension-ie leaf springs, shocks/struts? And any suggestions on more power from a 5.7L engine...transmission...and rear end is much appreciated?
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- Thread starter Warrior
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The 1500 w/ 5.7 - check your door sticker because you are pushing the max capacity with it.
Capacity changes with transmission and even gear ratio and depending what you have you might max it there
If you are going to tow that much just a couple times a year and not through mountains on the hiway, you can get away with it. If you are towing that often, you bought the wrong rig. To do it safely and not have everything break down all the time you may be pouring thousands of dollars into it.
4L80e transmission in it? What gear ratio?
Leaf springs & shocks (no struts on these) are only a part of it. Brakes are my biggest concern.
Wilwood makes a brake kit that is $1,500 for front axle, and a rear disk conversion that is $1,500 for the rear axle. So there is $3,000 to get you better -not ideal stopping.
You swap to different spring kit for the rear that are heavier duty but they raise ride height. Better is begin with new stock springs because the 30 year old ones are simply tired by now and won’t perform as they should. Then get a helper spring or imo the better move is the Firestone air bag towing kit. This way you aren’t changing the handling when not towing and when you do, just air up and it will take the weight without ruining ride. Those are $500 if you do it without an on board compressor. Adding the on board compressor tacks on $$ and just depends how much you choose to spend for it.
A set of new Bilstein shocks all the way around.
The transmission- you need to tell us what you have first. But realistically, most people run what they have until is starts slipping then rebuild. Most likely the 4l60e. You can search the online builders like B&M or TCI with a triple disk converter. If you have the 4l80e (unlikely) then it’s ok as is but when rebuilding is needed there is a few upgrades to do including the converter.
Adding a secondary transmission cooler is always a good idea to extend life, get a descent one not a cheap one. Also look into a manual override switch to force the lock up of the converter for when you are on the hiway only. Until you have a lock up converter and the switch on the 4l60e- anything other than flat ground you will manually downshift to drive. This isn’t a maybe type suggestion this is how to not call a tow truck.
For adding more power to the 5.7 there is a ton of options for that. A set of descent headers with an H or X pipe then duals out the back with high flowing mufflers.
Cold air intake.
The fuel cannon is a known hiccup issue- and replacing it with the first two items of letting it breathe properly is a standard action. There are tons of options, a hint is all the mid to low range cost one suck & will be replaced in 40,000 miles or less. Buy once cry once here.
There is a ton more possible with the engine but those basics will help it a lot, and depending how tired your engine is now- you can easily be running HALF of your torque/hp rating. And those all being external means they can be reused when it’s time to do the inside of the engine. Anymore it’s almost always better to order a long block from one of the major builders than redo your original.
What my best suggestion is to you - move up to a 200-2004 2500hd suburban with the 6.0 in it. It’s a world of difference.
I regret selling my 69 Camaro, and next in line is selling my 2001 K2500hd suburban. Zero modifications were needed to tow the weight you are taking about all day long. If mountain towing only additional is the transmission cooler.
Capacity changes with transmission and even gear ratio and depending what you have you might max it there
If you are going to tow that much just a couple times a year and not through mountains on the hiway, you can get away with it. If you are towing that often, you bought the wrong rig. To do it safely and not have everything break down all the time you may be pouring thousands of dollars into it.
4L80e transmission in it? What gear ratio?
Leaf springs & shocks (no struts on these) are only a part of it. Brakes are my biggest concern.
Wilwood makes a brake kit that is $1,500 for front axle, and a rear disk conversion that is $1,500 for the rear axle. So there is $3,000 to get you better -not ideal stopping.
You swap to different spring kit for the rear that are heavier duty but they raise ride height. Better is begin with new stock springs because the 30 year old ones are simply tired by now and won’t perform as they should. Then get a helper spring or imo the better move is the Firestone air bag towing kit. This way you aren’t changing the handling when not towing and when you do, just air up and it will take the weight without ruining ride. Those are $500 if you do it without an on board compressor. Adding the on board compressor tacks on $$ and just depends how much you choose to spend for it.
A set of new Bilstein shocks all the way around.
The transmission- you need to tell us what you have first. But realistically, most people run what they have until is starts slipping then rebuild. Most likely the 4l60e. You can search the online builders like B&M or TCI with a triple disk converter. If you have the 4l80e (unlikely) then it’s ok as is but when rebuilding is needed there is a few upgrades to do including the converter.
Adding a secondary transmission cooler is always a good idea to extend life, get a descent one not a cheap one. Also look into a manual override switch to force the lock up of the converter for when you are on the hiway only. Until you have a lock up converter and the switch on the 4l60e- anything other than flat ground you will manually downshift to drive. This isn’t a maybe type suggestion this is how to not call a tow truck.
For adding more power to the 5.7 there is a ton of options for that. A set of descent headers with an H or X pipe then duals out the back with high flowing mufflers.
Cold air intake.
The fuel cannon is a known hiccup issue- and replacing it with the first two items of letting it breathe properly is a standard action. There are tons of options, a hint is all the mid to low range cost one suck & will be replaced in 40,000 miles or less. Buy once cry once here.
There is a ton more possible with the engine but those basics will help it a lot, and depending how tired your engine is now- you can easily be running HALF of your torque/hp rating. And those all being external means they can be reused when it’s time to do the inside of the engine. Anymore it’s almost always better to order a long block from one of the major builders than redo your original.
What my best suggestion is to you - move up to a 200-2004 2500hd suburban with the 6.0 in it. It’s a world of difference.
I regret selling my 69 Camaro, and next in line is selling my 2001 K2500hd suburban. Zero modifications were needed to tow the weight you are taking about all day long. If mountain towing only additional is the transmission cooler.
Last edited:
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the forum Warrior.
Listen to what @Will L. Is saying.
I edit my post to add that statement.
I run a 1993 K1500 for quite a few years. Pulled a tandem axle heavy duty trailer with it. IIRC it was a 7,000 pound trailer, bumper pull unit.
For pulling 5,000 pounds the 1500 series should be fine, just add rear axle air bags. Thats how I got away with hauling such heavy loads on my pigup truck.
The 4L60E transmission can be reworked to handle anything that can be thrown at it. I may be mistaken but seems that I have read that they can be taken to handle 700HP. I know and hope that someone will correct that statement if it is wrong.
The 1995 utilizes what is known as the Spider Fuel Injection system. There’s a lot of controversy about that system too. I have drove a 1995, 350 and spider EFI. That thing was a beast on power compared to the 93 throttle body system that I had.
Just do the spider upgrade kit and that system should also serve You well.
The 350 will run a lot of miles if properly maintained. At or near 100,000 miles install a new timing chain/sprocket set and a new coolant pump. Watch the oil pressure, at over 200,000 I replaced the oil pump and pan gasket along with the timing chain/sprocket set again. I sold that truck at over 350,000 miles and it still was not using oil nor smoking out the exhaust.
The next owner wasnt so kind to it. Coolant pump started leaking but drugs and party was more important, he burned up the engine.
Listen to what @Will L. Is saying.
I edit my post to add that statement.
I run a 1993 K1500 for quite a few years. Pulled a tandem axle heavy duty trailer with it. IIRC it was a 7,000 pound trailer, bumper pull unit.
For pulling 5,000 pounds the 1500 series should be fine, just add rear axle air bags. Thats how I got away with hauling such heavy loads on my pigup truck.
The 4L60E transmission can be reworked to handle anything that can be thrown at it. I may be mistaken but seems that I have read that they can be taken to handle 700HP. I know and hope that someone will correct that statement if it is wrong.
The 1995 utilizes what is known as the Spider Fuel Injection system. There’s a lot of controversy about that system too. I have drove a 1995, 350 and spider EFI. That thing was a beast on power compared to the 93 throttle body system that I had.
Just do the spider upgrade kit and that system should also serve You well.
The 350 will run a lot of miles if properly maintained. At or near 100,000 miles install a new timing chain/sprocket set and a new coolant pump. Watch the oil pressure, at over 200,000 I replaced the oil pump and pan gasket along with the timing chain/sprocket set again. I sold that truck at over 350,000 miles and it still was not using oil nor smoking out the exhaust.
The next owner wasnt so kind to it. Coolant pump started leaking but drugs and party was more important, he burned up the engine.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I don’t want to make it sound like it can’t do it.
But understand you are taking a rig that when brand new, you would be maxing it out. That would shorten the life of any rig.
Now you are trying to do it on one with 30 years and all we can guess is a quarter million miles on it…
But understand you are taking a rig that when brand new, you would be maxing it out. That would shorten the life of any rig.
Now you are trying to do it on one with 30 years and all we can guess is a quarter million miles on it…
Whaddya think about the 2500 Burb with a 454???
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
the 2500 with 454 should tow but will be a gas hog. will still need some upgrades like a trans cooler, but should come stock with a 4l80e. even better if equipped 4x4. if looking at it to buy, be sure to look at the tag on the drivers door frame and see what it's setup for stock as for weight. remember the final weight on the tag is vehicle and trailer combined.
a 3500 crew cab with a manual trans will always tow circles around an automatic too.
a 3500 crew cab with a manual trans will always tow circles around an automatic too.
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Heavy 2500 will also have 8 lugs on each wheel and better brakes too. what year is it?
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Will L.
Well-Known Member
100%
That 2500 hd with the 454 & 4l80e is gonna put you WAY AHEAD in towing.
It will drink more gas. But it will survive towing, and do it far more safely.
I say get it, drive and wait to see what breaks down before starting to dump money into it.
There are things that will make it better, gonna list some so you know what to keep an eye out for a smokin deal but don’t jump into these right away.
Rear brakes are weak but better than the 1500 by a lot. Later consider rear disk brake conversion, but wait because maybe the gears are noisey and an entire rear axle swap becomes a better choice.
Speaking of beat up differentials- dont waste money on the cooling diff covers. Banks proved all the others junk and his are made of gold. It’s cheaper to just swap to high quality gear oil and replace it every 100k. I’m no good at finding the links but hopefully one of the guys here post a link how to add a toggle switch to force torque converter lockup.
Extra transmission cooler is still a good idea.
Gm’s factory temp gauge is junk- leave the stock one because of how the dash is done, but adding an aftermarket one is worth while as is a transmission temp gauge imo.
The fuel pumps on both the1500 & 2500 are weak, and die soon because the factory fuel filter plugs really easy. In the fleet we learned to do fuel filters every other oil change. There are some good aftermarket fuel filters that are much larger so not needing t replace as often. So watch for good deals on those. The Delco stock filters- sometimes you can buy a case of 6 or 12 crazy cheap- just remember they have a shelf life of a few years at most.
There is a heater hose that goes to the engine and uses some click inplace connections. They are horrible. The gm 6.5 diesel used them too into the waterpump. When you remove the old ones it is a major fight. Just buy regular king nipple to replace them.
If equipped with rear heat, the T fittings for the heater hoses fail and smae connection problems. Get brass T from a hardware store is low cost and works for ever.
Oh, all GM vehicles from 1990 and newer, the ground wire connections are junk.
Remove, clean & reinstall them. The computers freak out because of it.
Same rules apply for power and mpg on the 5.7- better cold air intake, better exhaust always helps- but aren’t required with the 454. You would do it for mpg gains mainly.
That 2500 hd with the 454 & 4l80e is gonna put you WAY AHEAD in towing.
It will drink more gas. But it will survive towing, and do it far more safely.
I say get it, drive and wait to see what breaks down before starting to dump money into it.
There are things that will make it better, gonna list some so you know what to keep an eye out for a smokin deal but don’t jump into these right away.
Rear brakes are weak but better than the 1500 by a lot. Later consider rear disk brake conversion, but wait because maybe the gears are noisey and an entire rear axle swap becomes a better choice.
Speaking of beat up differentials- dont waste money on the cooling diff covers. Banks proved all the others junk and his are made of gold. It’s cheaper to just swap to high quality gear oil and replace it every 100k. I’m no good at finding the links but hopefully one of the guys here post a link how to add a toggle switch to force torque converter lockup.
Extra transmission cooler is still a good idea.
Gm’s factory temp gauge is junk- leave the stock one because of how the dash is done, but adding an aftermarket one is worth while as is a transmission temp gauge imo.
The fuel pumps on both the1500 & 2500 are weak, and die soon because the factory fuel filter plugs really easy. In the fleet we learned to do fuel filters every other oil change. There are some good aftermarket fuel filters that are much larger so not needing t replace as often. So watch for good deals on those. The Delco stock filters- sometimes you can buy a case of 6 or 12 crazy cheap- just remember they have a shelf life of a few years at most.
There is a heater hose that goes to the engine and uses some click inplace connections. They are horrible. The gm 6.5 diesel used them too into the waterpump. When you remove the old ones it is a major fight. Just buy regular king nipple to replace them.
If equipped with rear heat, the T fittings for the heater hoses fail and smae connection problems. Get brass T from a hardware store is low cost and works for ever.
Oh, all GM vehicles from 1990 and newer, the ground wire connections are junk.
Remove, clean & reinstall them. The computers freak out because of it.
Same rules apply for power and mpg on the 5.7- better cold air intake, better exhaust always helps- but aren’t required with the 454. You would do it for mpg gains mainly.
I've got a couple F-350s to look at....one is an '87 with 84k miles....the other is a '97 with 264k...both are automatic w/460 engine
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
FORD.... yuck lol just joking. that 99 2500 burb sounds like a goo deal for what your wanting. interior space and towing.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
At some point the chain in the transfer case will need replacing. Rebuilding the transfer case isn’t hard or expensive.
How many miles on the 2500?
How many miles on the 2500?