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Suggestions…recommendations needed drive line

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panran

Well-Known Member
Messages
116
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273
Location
Colorado high plains 6300 feet
Would like some advice from experienced dually 6.5L dually owners or past owners….well I’m getting excited about finally experiencing a real truck. I haven’t tried to start my truck in about six months and to my surprise it fired right up, well in the past it took about two or three battery charges to get fuel to the IP, so I pulled the gp and loosen the injectors thinking it would be less work on the battery and bam the first crank I smelled diesel…so in the past there was always a fuel pressure leak and thanks to a lot of help on this forum problem solved. So I’m moving forward in phases starting from hb and pulley and cross over now waiting on delivery of front pulley drive components so I will have water pump alternator vp ps,ect that should be here early next week…. So what would be helpful is drive shaft components, I’ve looked on rock auto and overwhelmed at the choices…2 piece driveshaft and carrier bearing so 3 universal joints… where I am at now Colorado high plains have a mile and half of washboard dirt road before paved and a lot of up and down two lane roads, so would be a lot of abuse ( rear wheel drive) also need to make 1 or 2 trips to Illinois with 16’ enclosed trailer. So would like help on choosing drive train for the conditions. Sorry for the long post but I’m relieved the starting issue seems to be solved. Thanks….Mr Marty 51 nice scooter pics we have a lot in common panran51.
 
I was always on the side of the greasable ones, but recently I have heard others say the sealed one are better to go with. as for the selection, just measure your joints to determine which one is correct. always go with USA made and don't cheap out on them for reliability. last time I replaced one, there was a choice between two different ones. I ended up getting both from the local Napa so I didn't need to make another trip if I had the wrong one.

Installed one that was correct, then later took back the other one for a credit.
 
When the sealed ones stay sealed- the grease doesn’t “wear out” and there is no way for it to leak.
The only time anyone should even consider a greaseable ujoint on anything is if you drive a lot of miles then while hot you submerge it in a river/ stream crossing where it will be submerged in the water for more than a minute or two.

And even then- the offroad community is split on which is better. The majority I been reading & talking to- 70% says sealed is better even doing that.


Basically- old technology designed & built seals couldn’t keep out dirt & water. And grease from the 1930’s would break down. But now with great seals and advanced lube that doesn’t break down-
No need to flush anything out of the ujoint.

Look over the whole driveshaft for dings or dents or missing counterweights.
Best is take it to a driveline shop and have them balance it with new sealed ujoints. Once installed you should never have to touch it again.

On the transmission- consider a new seal where the yoke slides in if slip joint.

On the crankshaft/ harmonic balancer - do a new front main seal while balancer is off.
 
If I do greasable U-Joints, I’m be looking fir ones with the zerk in the trunion cap.
I’m tired of trying to fanangle a needle point into them small unseeable spaces.
 
Also when pulling the shaft, before pulling it out of the trans. grab it and check up/down and side to side play. if it wiggles too much, there is a bronze bushing that will need love and attention.
 
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