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Steering Box for '94 K2500 Suburban

Big T

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As I'm ordering a Redhead Steering Box for my '99 Suburban, I'm looking down the road to do the same on my son's '94 Suburban. IIRC the '94 has a lower ratio box which makes for a worse turning radius. Is there something that would prevent using the higher ratio box from the '99 on the '94? This will be installed after completing the conversion to the GMT 800 brakes.
 
Worse turning radius? I don't think so. The less turns lock to lock just requires more force by the driver. The end movement is the same afaik.
 
The turning radius on the '94 is less than the '99. It uses a box with less range. Wondering if I can use the one for the '99, or is there a mechanical limitation.
 
Last item same part on both. So if this is correct, you could swap them.

Still very confused. If you hit the bump stops on the spindles, then the tires are moving just as far. If one of the boxes keeps it from hitting the bump stops then Ok, but Ive never seen that. In the camaros we used to always swap around steering boxes for preferences of ease of turn vs quicker reaction but it never affected final spindle movement. Just took 1 or 2 thrns more of the wheel. Different length axle to axle will do it. Are they the same?

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They interchange as I have the new style 15:1 redhead on mine. There used to be a different box for 96- vs 97+ with the variable steering. GM superceded them all to the new style box quite awhile back. I know my redhead box seems to have a good turn8ng radius to it. Just make sure they don't talk you into the 18:1 ratio DODFE box as you could break your clockspring if you put it in a 95+ with an airbag. They tried talking me into one, but I was adamant about staying 15:1 stock. They tried pushing the 18:1 for all diesels.
 
They interchange as I have the new style 15:1 redhead on mine. There used to be a different box for 96- vs 97+ with the variable steering. GM superceded them all to the new style box quite awhile back. I know my redhead box seems to have a good turn8ng radius to it. Just make sure they don't talk you into the 18:1 ratio DODFE box as you could break your clockspring if you put it in a 95+ with an airbag. They tried talking me into one, but I was adamant about staying 15:1 stock. They tried pushing the 18:1 for all diesels.

Thanks. That's the info I was looking for, though I have no idea what the clock spring is.
 
What is the clock spring? Centering device for wheel or electrical connection for air bag?

Just for my knowledge later could a '97 without air bag use an 18:1?

Is the steering wheel turns lock to lock the same for 18:1 vs 15:1? And difference is wheel angle travel? 15:1 would have more travel?
 
The clock spring is the big coil of wires that connects the airbag to the wiring in the column. It's what allows the electrical connection between the vehicle wiring to the airbag and allows it to stay solidly connected while the steering wheel and airbag spin as you turn the wheel. One could use it if the airbag wasn't a concern. The higher the ratio, the more turns lock to lock.
 
The clock spring is the big coil of wires that connects the airbag to the wiring in the column. It's what allows the electrical connection between the vehicle wiring to the airbag and allows it to stay solidly connected while the steering wheel and airbag spin as you turn the wheel. One could use it if the airbag wasn't a concern. The higher the ratio, the more turns lock to lock.

What is the ratio on the '94 vs the '95?

I just finished pulling the steering box. It's like revisiting an old friend.
 
Not sure what the differences origanally were since they've all superceded to the same number.

Well the '99 has a tighter steering radius. If we can make that work in the '94, then we will. My question was aimed at whether there is something other than the steering box that physical limits the turning radius?
 
Theres steering stops out on the knuckles. My redhead box I have now pulls right into the stops no problem.

Given that I'm installing GMT 800 knuckles onto the '94, then I should be able to use the same box I used on the '99? My son would like to order his redhead box now at the same time I am ordering because he has the money now and would like to get it done.
 
After a failed shipping attempt (steering fluid leaked out), I redid the packing on the steering box and got it out. It fits in a USPS Large Flat Rate Box. I had to put plugs in where the hydraulic lines go, this after spending a lot of time draining it. I slipped 1/2" pipe insulation foam over the steering column connection and built up the inside of the box with multiple layers of cardboard to prevent it from punching out. Then the rest of the pipe insulation was cut up and wedged in to keep the thing from moving around. It will make it this time and I will reuse their packaging to return my son's steering box.

Busy with travel for work. Houston last week; New York this week. Then I will have some time to finish off this job.
 
Got the Redhead Steering Box and installed it. Other than some rust on the learning curve from the last time I did this, it was relatively simple. New box is very tight and has none of the "harder to steer in one direction" issue that THEFERMANATOR had with his. I will have my son order a Redhead steering box for his '94 Suburban.

Redhead said that the boxes were the same for 1992 to 1999; they're all 15:1. Some may have had stops installed in them, or there were stops on the knuckles.

Redhead charged $35 for the shipping and handling via UPS. I was able to get the core to them in a USPS Large Flat Rate Box for $18.95. You need to plug the input holes to stop leaks and add extra layers of cardboard so the input shaft does not poke through. Then stuff it with foam or cardboard so it won't move around in the box.
 

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OK I'm in the middle of pulling the steering box on the '94 and this one is fighting back. Could not separate the Pitman arm from the tie rod, but was able to separate it from the box. I am having a bear of a time undoing the power steering lines at the box. Very hard to get a wrench in there and then get some torgue on it. Wasn't this bad on my '99. Would a crow's foot work on this? Are the nuts 18mm?

We have the new box ready, just need to get this baby out and the last thing are these hoses.
 
So new Redhead Steering boxes on both the '99 and the '94, along with the GMT 800 front brake conversion. Could not be happier with both set-ups. Steering is tight and the brakes stop like a beast. This is how the Suburbans should have been built.
 
So after installing the Redhead Steering box and doing a pretty good job at home aligning it, my son took it in for alignment. They said the steering box was too loose and it was leaking from the output shaft. I called Redhead and they asked me to an isolation test. Basically grab the output shaft and rock it back and forth while feeling for play at the input shaft. I could barely move the output shaft. Everything seemed tight and there was no slop. The Pitman arm is a Moog Problem Solver, same with the Idler arm and those were installed 45K miles ago. New upper and lower control arm bushings and tie rod ends 45K miles ago, new outer tie rod ends as part of the brake conversion. Ball joints were done 45K miles ago. Everything is tight. Still the steering box has to go back because I was able to confirm the leak from the output shaft.
 
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