Starting issues Solenoid maybe?

[Dieseldad97]

I need a bit of help here guys.

My truck does not like -40C weather.:sad:

I get into the truck in the morning and turn the key to try and start it and I hear a click but it will not turn over. I do this several times then all of a sudden it cranks and starts.
It's been doing this for the past 3 years on and off. Only when it gets really cold. Once the truck has run and it's warm, it starts just fine.

I'm thinking it's my solenoid. My starter has been off, and rebuilt and it still reacts the same way. Same old solenoid though. Could weather be an issue with a solenoid?

Battery connection mod is done and they are clean.
Dash lights stay on and do not reflect any problems

Suggestions?

 

[Turbine Doc]

check connections at the starter & solenoid istelf, also do you have a load cell will rule out in a few seconds you don't have a weak battery

 

[gmctd]

Excessive copper loss in starter contactor contacts (solenoid) - excessive oxidation in START contactor contacts (Ign switch) - excessive corrosion in current-carrying conductor(s) (battery cable(s)), hidden inside insulation - same at battery post connection(s)

 

[Dieseldad97]

Load cell? Please explain.

 

[Dieseldad97]

Excessive copper loss in starter contactor contacts (solenoid) - excessive oxidation in START contactor contacts (Ign switch)

Any easy way to check Ign. switch? Spray something in there?...

 

[mfgguru]

No idea what your problem is, but I am here for moral support. If I would guess, the solenoid needs to be changed. Remember, you have baby batteries in that thing. Might be time to get real man's batteries!):h Fricken cold eh?

 

[Dieseldad97]

No idea what your problem is, but I am here for moral support. If I would guess, the solenoid needs to be changed. Remember, you have baby batteries in that thing. Might be time to get real man's batteries!):h Fricken cold eh?

Hahaha Mike....baby batteries. Thanks for the moral support though.:smile5:
I'm thinking of just putting a solenoid in just because I have no idea how old it is.
As for the temp....I can't believe it.

Truck still started this morning.

Have a good one.

 

[gmctd]

Remove it, pop the top off - construction is similar to a relay: connection between circuit contacts is a vertically-moving contactor bar, mechanically lowered across the contacts - that type arrangement provides no burnishing action to remove oxidation, so it accumulates, becoming increasingly resistive - previous GM start switches employed moving sliders across knife-type contacts, ever-burnishing, always conductive, works fine, lasts a long time - battery cables, starter solenoid would be my first line of attack

 

[Sunshine]

Gerald..it gets cold here sometimes -30c`ss but -40c that enough to freZzzzin the balls off a brass monkey...

I know you have a lot of Babes around to keep you warm, Okay what`s this about baby batteries...?

Own Up..!!!!

 

[chrisk1500]

Buy a new solenoid....they're like $20....

 

[corolla]

Could perform a voltage drop across the ignition switch, should see less than 0.2 volts.

Put meter from + battery to crank fuse, measure while turning over.
Review the 10A crank fuse and the 40A maxi fuse (fuse 6).

 

[corolla]

Don't forget the neutral safety switch on the tranny (trans completely in P or N?).

 

[JiFaire]

ITA with the others on the solenoid, Gerald... the other thing you gotta remember is, this is a moving-part operation. The more gunk builds up in there over time, the more likely it is to get stiff when it's this cold... and if the bar can't move, it don't engage, ya know?

The few I've had off have been crudded up - I was amazed they worked when warm!

PS ... -42 here this AM, with wind chill. Diesel is dead. 454 started, but did NOT like it..

 

[NVW]

PS ... -42 here this AM, with wind chill. Diesel is dead. 454 started, but did NOT like it..

That's nothing, I had a cow that wouldn't start yesterday morning it was so cold. Poor girl. She was pretty old. Leo

 

[Dieseldad97]

Remove it, pop the top off - construction is similar to a relay: connection between circuit contacts is a vertically-moving contactor bar, mechanically lowered across the contacts - that type arrangement provides no burnishing action to remove oxidation, so it accumulates, becoming increasingly resistive - previous GM start switches employed moving sliders across knife-type contacts, ever-burnishing, always conductive, works fine, lasts a long time - battery cables, starter solenoid would be my first line of attack

ITA with the others on the solenoid, Gerald... the other thing you gotta remember is, this is a moving-part operation. The more gunk builds up in there over time, the more likely it is to get stiff when it's this cold... and if the bar can't move, it don't engage, ya know?

The few I've had off have been crudded up - I was amazed they worked when warm!

PS ... -42 here this AM, with wind chill. Diesel is dead. 454 started, but did NOT like it..

Are you guys saying that I could pull it apart and clean it up vs buying a new one? It's a fair amount of work pulling the starter....twice...

 

[JiFaire]

You probably COULD clean it up... but as Chris said, they're about $20. You don't want to do this twice...

 

[Turbine Doc]

Load cell? Please explain.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90636

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91129

Puts high current load on battery, which checks load carry capability of the battery, volt meter just lets you know how many volts are on plates, but gives no indication how capable the battery is to maintain voltage/amperage when glows-DTRL-& starter doing all things at same time. When trying to start is your parking brake on, that will disable DTRL which draws on batts when not actually cranking. Before getting jiggy with starter check the batts.