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Started, died, won't restart

S

Steve93mustanglx

Diesel fanatic!
Messages
210
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2
Location
Midlothian, VA
Hey folks, today my Sub started back up after a quick 5 mile drive only to die when it rolled 3 feet. Yesterday, it died while idling at the cleaners. I was able to restart it yesterday, but no such luck today.

It has

- 2 new batteries (less than 2 months old, same brand).
- all grounds cleaned and tight.
- all new cables to batteries, starter, alt made from 2-0 gauge welders cable.
- 2 y/o PMD mounted remotely in bumper.
- oil level OK
- LP is working (fuel still shoots out of filter housing when vent is loosened).
- LP is wired with a relay to bypass the OPS
- fuel IS getting to injectors
- Voltage on batts: 14
- cranks when key is turned
- air filter removed, no change
- CDR brand new
- fuel tank is full, full filter is 1 month old, 600 miles tops
- engine is not hot. All hoses, water pump, thermostat, gaskets, band clamps, you name it were replaced last summer. It takes alot to get this truck to 200 degrees now.

I did pull 10,000 pounds last week several times, without issue.

It is located some distance away and will pull codes when I get back to it.

WHat am I missing? What should I check first?
 
PMD's do die...

WHen it dies, what lights do you have? Do you have all normal dash lights trying to restart?

ECM fuse good? Clean all fuses.

Ignition Module?
 
you said gnds clean, all per the GND toubleshooting post in tech reference area ????, that one on back passenger side head that supplies PCM, when loose/dirty will cause exactly what you are describing, fuses, fues holder, and ignition switch a possibility, you said 2 y/o driver, was it new, or new at one point and then relocated to bumper at some point.

You say remoted mounted in bumper, on a heat sink ??? what size sink ?,, extension harness connections good ???, do you have a good seal between driver & heat sink, corrosion on PMD transistor lock nuts to transistor case will kill you as well, are they tight ? abround 9 pound inch ?
 
I forgot to mention I hooked up my "limp home" PMD and got same results. Also forgot to mention all fuses checked. And rechecked.

Tim- it (PMD) is on a heat sink in bumper, it is thick as hell and 6-7 inches long, maybe 4 inches wide. It was new at time of install, roughly 2 years ago. Checked connections on top of motor and at PMD end. When I say checked and cleaned grounds, I mean BIG TIME. I went through them something fierce recently, trying to get to the bottom of a dash gauge and heater fan/air handler problem. Hello, BTW :)

It is a Stanadyne PMD, yes, as is my "limp home" PMD...

Not sure what lights are on dash when it dies. Forget. But lights are normal while trying to start. ???
 
One way to revive it is to take off from the heatsink. Go at the back and tighten the nuts holding the transistor. Even put some loctite in there.

Sometimes, it can revive it. In the mean time, get a new one for spare from PMDCable.
 
Pulled codes.

39- TCC stuck 'off'
68- Trans component slipping
78- Turbo Wastegate Solenoid Fault
87- Trans Gear ratio fault

I have had a Heath boost controller for almost a year. I do occasionally get SES for it after sustained pulls with 7-8 pounds boost. It always resets after turned off/back on.

I did recently install a Transgo HD-2 shift kit. It drives fine. No detectable shift issues, other than I do not have full manual control since I did the kit.

It did start once tonight then instantly died.

Batts down to 12.35v
 
Its got to be fuel delivery or electrical. Have you inspected fuel shut off sol?
 
OK- update. Was able to look at the GP controller and pull 2 glow plugs.
-The GP controller has voltage on one side, which if I researched properly, is supposed to be this way. It has 12v key on or off.
-I left the pulled GP's out during the wait to start cycle, and they do NOT get hot at all, either hanging in air or grounded.
-I removed my remote PMD, retorked the transistor nuts (didn't seem overly loose), reinstalled. NADA...

On further reflection, it has taken longer to start in the past few weeks. Thought it was bad new batteries at first...

Burning Oil- gets fuel to injectors. I have checked grounds REPEATEDLY. Just as clean as a couple months ago when doing battery cable upgrade....

Thoughts?
 
Vehicles that are working but are lacking heat (glows) Usually have raw diesel pumping out the tailpipe on failed starting attempts. WHITE SMOKE

You could take the hairdryer to the intake for 10 minutes or so and then see if it starts.. plug it in too for that matter if you think its the glow plugs.
 
Even though you have two PMDs you are tring it sure sound like PMD to me. If you have the extension harness with all black wires then it is from China and are prone to burn the terminals on them.
 
Burning Oil- you are correct! I hooked the limp home PMD directly to factory harness and it fired right up. And yes, it must be Chinese- all black wires.

Thanks!
 
Thats good news, alot cheaper fix than a new PMD. Let me know if I can help with a new cable.
 
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