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So... Possibly trading 95 for 2 Tractors

treegump

Romans 3:22-24
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2,296
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981
Location
Martinsville, IN
I decided to go ahead and not only drop the price to the 95 K2500, but also reach out to sellers, and someone in KY says they are willing to trade 2 Allis Chalmers B's for it. 1 runs and the other is stuck.

I've wanted to find a wide front, older and smaller tractor to possibly drop and use as a woods tractor. :) I'm kind of excited. :)


I referred him here to see what I've posted, my Google albums that show all the photos I've shown you.
 
I've reached out to a lot of people with a lot of different things - but a tractor has been on my list for a while - mainly because I live on an alley and my dad heats with wood - so I figured I could use it as a utility tractor.

I've reached out mainly to people with Farmall Cubs, B's, AC's, and a few garden tractors that either have 3pt hitches or multiple implements.

I don't know how I feel about it not having hydraulics, however, if I lower the tractor, I may have to figure something else out anyhow.

The main reason I thought of lowering it is for in the woods - to lower the center of gravity. I've seen the rear hubs swapped and flipped 180 degrees, but just this morning I saw where someone went 90 degrees and made it look like a Ford 8n or 9n.

Not sure how the brakes would operate at a 90 degree turn, but this might be something I'll just have to investigate if I get them.
 
It does appear to have a PTO drive on the back end. A three point can be adapted and hydraulic controls added for a rear mounted PTO hydraulic pump.
Looks to Me like it`d be a pretty fair deal. I hope it all works out for You.
 
I hope so too. He seemed fairly excited about it and said he was just looking for a trailer that could haul both tractors. It'd be nice if whoever trades/buys it comes to me.
 
Traded the truck for a White MTD 1855 143-998-190 tractor.

Carb is finicky, as it won't idle, and the shaft driven deck is vibrating too crazy to mow.

It has a 3 pt, cat 0, hitch. I had to remove the components to close my shed door. But all 3 pieces came with

Currently looking for atv tires and/or tire chains before I get a chance to find or make a grader box and/or blade. And a tune-up kit. What hydraulic fluid and engine oil should I use?

Though I also have it up for trade for a vintage tractor like Screenshot_20200408-200047_Facebook.jpgScreenshot_20200408-200052_Facebook.jpgScreenshot_20200408-200058_Facebook.jpgScreenshot_20200408-200105_Facebook.jpgScreenshot_20200408-200111_Facebook.jpgScreenshot_20200408-200125_Facebook.jpgScreenshot_20200408-200132_Facebook.jpg20200408_194244.jpg20200408_194238.jpg20200408_194234.jpga cub, a, b...
 
Get on the MTD website and register the tractor in Your equipment section. I was able to get the owners manual through their documentations.
Vibrations on deck sounds to me like the blades is whacked out of balance. I had to install new spindle/bearing housings on Mine, new belt and new blades. It sure does run fine now.
I did install the MTD mulch kit but I am not overly impressed with that. I figure I will reinstall the baggers and see how well it picks up with leaving the mulch kit plates in place.
i would like to get the vacuum attachment for Mine tractor but so far have not been able to find one. Might be the JD vacuum unit can be adapted to fit Mine tractor.
 
Carbs idle jets really don’t like modern fuel. When it sits a month, the ethanol evaporates and you get a “shellac” build up in the tiny ports like used to take 2 years worth of sitting using real gasoline. (Not just diesel got ruined imo by alcohol)
I cant say if B&S carbs will recover being cleaned out, but Honda, Yamaha, Kohler, and Kawasaki - ALL of them the only answer is buying a new idle jet each time. The more accurate made, the worse it affects it.
Used to be the worst thing to do is let a carburetor sit dry, now its the best option unless you can buy ethanol free gas near you.

If it runs ok in mid and upper rpm, and you checked that you dont have any vacuum leaks-redoing that carb is likely in the future.

Anytime I get a used rig that I know I will have to tinker with, I like to do a compression test and start a maintenance book so I can look back how I solved the issue 3 years ago or to reference when things get worse.

Another thing that many folks don’t do but should on a gasoline engine is do vacuum gauge readings and write it down. If you aren’t familiar, I can put a pic that I keep as a cheat sheet with my vacuum gauge what different readings mean. $15 not even on sale for a good vacuum gauge kit from harborfreight. it also does low pressure readings like fuel pressure but to make it last (thanks corn fuel) you should spray wd40 in to rinse the alcohol out afterwards to keep the bladder good.
 
Oh, meant to say: the fix for letting it sit a month and not ruining the new carb parts is install a fuel shut of valve and run it out of fuel before shutting the engine off. Make sure the gas tank is air tight not vented and use stabilizer when storing it a month or more. A second gas cap that gets the vent plugged just for storage is a frequent trick. A buddy just uses a sandwich bag under the cap and seals his that way. Depends on the cap style.

Cant you take the blade off and run it to see if it is the blade knocked out of balance?
 
The tractor came with no air filter and was told by PO that it's actually an 18 hp motor but he couldn't find a cap for it and the 16hp air filter cap fit.

Regardless - it appears Amazon sells a kit that fits 12.5-20hp motors - Vanguard & B&S. If I can't find something at Rural King, than I'll get that kit. (This project falls after cleaning my shed, so not in a big hurry with the shut down still in effect.)

I was also considering on draining the oil and hydraulic fluid as there appears to be a little lag in lifting at top and bottom - but there's also linkages that appear loose, so it might just be the linkage. Regardless, an oil change wouldn't be a bad idea.

When I get a chance, I was planning on attempting an adjustment on the idle/fuel adjustments on the carb, but I also have carb cleaner can if that didn't work. It idles rough, but seems to clear up when it's mid-high idle.

I had been meaning to purchase a pressure gauge anyhow, so I'll look into that also.

I'll get it registered, though I don't know if I'm finished wheeling and dealing. The thought behind this trade and any other vintage tractor I was looking at was to help get into tighter spots in the woods on my parent's farm that the JD 2040 or even Farmall B couldn't get to, but also do little tasks around my house in town. Not sure the lightness of the tractor is going to be sufficient, but it's bigger than I remember my last White being, so I might be surprised.

Also - if I find I need a rear PTO - I can't imagine it'd be difficult making something up since the deck is PTO driven and it has a front PTO shaft. Seems I could install a carrier bearing to the rear and make sure I have a torsion coupling to protect the tractor.

Call me weird, but I think it'd be cool to transform the mid deck into a rear deck...
 
So, I was hoping the majority of the White conversation would be moved to the White thread, but here's all the traffic. :)

I installed a new air filter and it seems to have settled the rough idle a little bit (had no air filter before). But, I still plan on doing an oil change, fuel filter change, and clean the carb one way or another - may just spray to begin.

I tried turning the PTO on while watching the shaft and it appears it was smooth at least to the deck's gear box. That makes me a little more hopeful that the deck is the problem and not anything above.

Still debating on purchasing ATV type tires with better tread, or purchasing chains. I think I found some chains for $150 for a pair.

Also still debating on seeing if I can trade this for a slightly bigger tractor - like a cub/a/b or even 4x4 four wheeler - but I have several other things I'm trying to clean up/trade and the shut-down is still active - so it may just wait.
 
I am a member to some of those for sale, wanted to buy, lost found pages on facebook. There is a lot of wheeling and dealing going on in those.
Over in the Wasilla Alaska buys/sell page a while back, was a Rokon two wheel drive motorcycle for a thousand bucks. The add stated the engine would not start. Heck, I texted My son and asked if He would go buy that for Me. The DIL, his wife would not let Him go, it was right after this virus shut down hit, like about two or three days. Those motorcicles sells for over $7,000.00 new so even if it would have needed and engine, still one heck of a bargain. At least it would have been there whenever I went over to Alaska. LOL
 
I remember seeing that
Yeah, that was the one. I think it was the Trail Blazer model, and a fairly new one too. Those things`ll climb as long as a person has the balls to hang on.
The wheels are made to pack spare fuel. The machine can be laid on the left side with the engine running for paddling across lakes, creeks and rivers too.
 
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